help me build my 355
help me build my 355 was planning on going with the stock crank ,upgraded rods, forged pistons, clevite bearings wanting want to still run pump gas and was planning on running cc503. wanting somewhere between 380 to 430 rear wheel horsepower. keep in mind im on a budget. what do i need to have done to the block??
Well obviously a 30 overbore would be a nice start. I'm about to tackle a 355 build right after the first of the year. I'm going to splay 4 bolt mains. I want to keep the stock crank. I am unsure of which pistons and rods I will be using. I just feel like the stock crank will hold up well past what I plan to build.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 372
Likes: 1
From: Kinston North Carolina
Im doing the same build myself. I just ordered my pistons last week. Should be seeing them in the next day or so, but they are the latest and greatest SRP Professional pieces. They dont weigh but 452 grams and have the latest 1.2, 1.5, 3.0 mm ring package. Im going with a stock crank, and H beam rods. I also am running the CC503 with stock heads that i have been R&Ding for quite some time now. Just got to get them in the CNC and get them digitized and get a program going on them now. Should have it going around march or so. I hope to see around 400 to the tires. When i get them pistons in my hands i will tell more about them, but from what ive seen they really seam to be some nice pistons, especially for the price you get them for.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 634
Likes: 0
From: In the garage fixing LT1
Here's what I had done to prepare for a similar build to what you are thinking of. I'm using the CC503 also on ported heads. I chose the Wiseco Pro-Tru forged 11:1 pistons, which are a fairly high quality piston but you can go a lot cheaper. They were recommended by the machine shop, and I checked with some racers who use them. Otherwise, this is what was done to prep for the build:
--Wiseco SBC .030" piston kit (pistons installed on rods)
--ARP Wave rod bolts (installed on reworked rods)
--Main bearing set (not installed)
--Connecting rod bearings (installed)
--Camshaft bearings (installed)
--Brass expansion plug kit
--Grind pass (align) main
--Cylinder rebore to 4 5/16" diameter (.030" over)
--Engine rotating assembly balance
--Recondition con rods (for ARP bolts, bearings, etc.)
Print this off and take it to a reputable machine shop for an estimate if you like. If you go with stock pistons, like Mahle hypereutectic you will save a lot of money, $300-$400 over my build. Also, if you don't plan on going over 5500rpm you can save $200 on an assembly balance. I strongly recommend you get your assembly balanced over 5500rpm though. There are a few things here you can skimp on like the shop installing your bearings, but you don't save much at all and it's cheap insurance to have them use their expensive tools to make it perfect. What I had done cost roughly $2000 at a GOOD machine shop with many race engines under their belt. You can do it cheaper at your own risk. The rest of the assembly is being done by myself. Make sure you get some good advice if this is your first build. Good luck and have fun.
BTW, I only expect about 340rwp out of this build. Bigger heads and cam will net you the power you want.
Last edited by Speedy; Dec 18, 2009 at 08:25 PM.