LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Clutch problems!

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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 05:19 PM
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Default Clutch problems!

Looking for any advice!

Car: 1995 Z28 M6 w/spec stage 2, B&M short throw

What happened:

- Revved up, slipped the clutch, and launched

- Lost traction, finally caught at the top of 1st and took off. Nothing new or weird

- Pushed in the clutch to shift to second. Good pressure, but it doesn't allow me to go into 2nd.

- No pops, squeals, squeaks, loss of pressure, etc.

Pedal feels normal and tranny shifts great if I gear match. If it's in neutral and the car is on, I can put pressure on the shifter towards the first position and it'll creep forward, if I let up, it stops moving. It won't go into gear unless the car is off, even with the clutch pedal pressed in.
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 06:01 PM
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Just pulled the slave cylinder, the clutch fork is loose moving both ways... shouldn't it be attached or something to a part?
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 12:54 PM
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...Anything?
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 01:44 PM
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What do you mean moving both ways? It should move around a little bit as it is cliped into the throwout bearing but should be parallel with the bell housing if you try to push it in twards the front of the car.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 04:16 PM
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it will move tiny bit side to side but you wont be able to push it forward
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 11:46 PM
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It was off the pivot ball. Put it back on and it does the same thing... maybe the slave cylinder? I keep hearing to change it.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 04:24 PM
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Hydraulics are in great shape. No problems there, still have the problem. This happened on my 1-2 shift, I was able to get it out of gear (not sure if it worked taking it out of first, or if I yanked it out... but by the time I was in neutral and going to 2nd, it wouldn't)
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 04:29 PM
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Is the clutch fork bolted down?
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by riceburnerZ28
Is the clutch fork bolted down?

It's moving around. Not really tight anywhere. What does the clutch fork bolt to? Is it possible a swift chuck norris clutch pedal kick could've un-fastened this bolt you speak of?
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 04:55 PM
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If the car is running wil it go into any gear at all? Mine did this awhile back and the disc split and spread out against the pressure plate. Basicly the pedal worked but it was stuck in gear because the destroyed disc was spread out rubbing on the pressure plate and keping the tranny spinning. The reason you car will move a little when you try to push it into gear is because the syncros are trying the syncronise the speed of the tranny and engine, so it can get into gear, so dont do that at all, its hard on them. Just take it apart, i bet your disc is split too from the sound of it.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 93TAJ.C.
If the car is running wil it go into any gear at all? Mine did this awhile back and the disc split and spread out against the pressure plate. Basicly the pedal worked but it was stuck in gear because the destroyed disc was spread out rubbing on the pressure plate and keping the tranny spinning. The reason you car will move a little when you try to push it into gear is because the syncros are trying the syncronise the speed of the tranny and engine, so it can get into gear, so dont do that at all, its hard on them. Just take it apart, i bet your disc is split too from the sound of it.


If the car is running it will NOT go into gear. If the car is off, it WILL go into gear. If I gear match while the car is running, it WILL go into gear.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by cgEvan
It's moving around. Not really tight anywhere. What does the clutch fork bolt to? Is it possible a swift chuck norris clutch pedal kick could've un-fastened this bolt you speak of?
I wouldent think so? I seriously takes like 45 mins to pull the tranny, just do it. Just remember to pull the tranny, then the bellhousing lol. You probly know this already.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by cgEvan
If the car is running it will NOT go into gear. If the car is off, it WILL go into gear. If I gear match while the car is running, it WILL go into gear.
Yes exactly what i thought, your disc is split and stuck against the pressure plate. So the clutch will feel fine because its still moving the pressure plate as it should, but the disc is always in contact with the pressure plate because it has split and grown in diameter, so the disc is contacting the pressure plate around the outer diameter instead of the face of the disc. Basically the clutch cant stop the tranny from spinning because its permanantly engaged and unable to disengage, youll understand when you get it out.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 93TAJ.C.
Yes exactly what i thought, your disc is split and stuck against the pressure plate. So the clutch will feel fine because its still moving the pressure plate as it should, but the disc is always in contact with the pressure plate because it has split and grown in diameter, so the disc is contacting the pressure plate around the outer diameter instead of the face of the disc. Basically the clutch cant stop the tranny from spinning because its permanantly engaged and unable to disengage, youll understand when you get it out.
Any idea if spec will sell me just another disc? It's supposed to be a Spec Stage 2. If not, will any other disc work?
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by cgEvan
Any idea if spec will sell me just another disc? It's supposed to be a Spec Stage 2. If not, will any other disc work?
Well you need to see if it damaged the pressure plate any, it probubly did, but if not, just call them and see. I would only put the same kind of disc back in. You also have to resurface the flywheel and pressure plate though. I did it to my stock clutch using some sandpaper and a block sander, it worked quite nice, though many would probubly say no to do it this way. I was just broke lol. You can have the flywheel done at a machine shop, but the pressure plate has to be done by hand or replaced.

I really doubt its a spec stage 2, with your mods i dont know how it could break.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 05:53 PM
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i know how it could you drive the **** out of it. I do the same thing except mine isnt stock anymore.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 09:14 PM
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i would just replace the slave. it's cheap and its quick. no skin off your back if it doesnt fix the problem.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 10:58 PM
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cgEvan, if the engine is idling while the trans is in neutral and you push in the clutch, begin to push the shifter into first gear, and the car starts creeping forward this means that your clutch is not fully disengaging. First I'd try to figure out why before I go calling Spec.

93TAJ.C. said that the friction disk may have split (if it was defective I'm assuming), and that is a very possible cause. But if I were you I'd check and make sure your hydraulics are working properly first, like what nik1703 said. Just because there's no fluid leaking from the master or slave doesn't mean there's no internal leak in one of the two. I can say from experience that I've had this problem-- even though my pedal felt normal I ended up having a faulty master cylinder.

The slaves cheap and easy to replace, so maybe try that first. If thats not it move on to the master, which is a bit more expensive and tricky to replace. Also make sure you bleed the system whenever you crack it open.

As for the clutchfork, even when its fully engaged its gonna have some play in it. You can move the arm up and down a tiny bit and the other ends of it will just tap the surface of the throwout bearing. There will be some forwards to backwards play too-- you'll be able to pull it backwards a tiny bit, but when you push it forwards itll go freely until the fork tips press against the collar of the throwout bearing. Then at that point you can't push it any furthur simply because your fingers aren't nearly powerful as the hyraulics are.

I doubt the clutchfork is actually loose. By the way our clutches are setup, if the bolt that holds the clutchfork to its pivotpoint on the transmission were loose the hydraulics would push the clutchfork so far that it would scrape against the spinning pressure plate. This would give you disengagement problems like youre having, but it would also make a ridiculously loud screeching noise while the engines running.

Hope that helped and good luck.
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by tbag_skywalker
cgEvan, if the engine is idling while the trans is in neutral and you push in the clutch, begin to push the shifter into first gear, and the car starts creeping forward this means that your clutch is not fully disengaging. First I'd try to figure out why before I go calling Spec.

93TAJ.C. said that the friction disk may have split (if it was defective I'm assuming), and that is a very possible cause. But if I were you I'd check and make sure your hydraulics are working properly first, like what nik1703 said. Just because there's no fluid leaking from the master or slave doesn't mean there's no internal leak in one of the two. I can say from experience that I've had this problem-- even though my pedal felt normal I ended up having a faulty master cylinder.
I replaced the slave cylinder, no change. But you're saying it could still be the master cylinder even if the pedal is firm?

As for the clutchfork, even when its fully engaged its gonna have some play in it. You can move the arm up and down a tiny bit and the other ends of it will just tap the surface of the throwout bearing. There will be some forwards to backwards play too-- you'll be able to pull it backwards a tiny bit, but when you push it forwards itll go freely until the fork tips press against the collar of the throwout bearing. Then at that point you can't push it any furthur simply because your fingers aren't nearly powerful as the hyraulics are.
Well, I literally have to guide the slave cylinder "shaft" into the clutch fork indention because the clutch fork will freely move all around unless I hold it still.

I doubt the clutchfork is actually loose. By the way our clutches are setup, if the bolt that holds the clutchfork to its pivotpoint on the transmission were loose the hydraulics would push the clutchfork so far that it would scrape against the spinning pressure plate. This would give you disengagement problems like youre having, but it would also make a ridiculously loud screeching noise while the engines running.

Hope that helped and good luck.

Is there a way to check this without pulling the tranny? Like I said, it's extremely freely moving, so I kinda think this might have something to do with it. It's to the point where I have to hold everything in place while I put it together. There aren't any noises. There weren't any noises before, after, or during the time it broke. And it went from everything perfect, to just absolutely nothing.


Sorry if I'm going in circle, just a little frustrated with the car. Thanks for all your help!
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by draggin97s10
i know how it could you drive the **** out of it. I do the same thing except mine isnt stock anymore.

I rarely beat the car, as it's my DD. I had a local grudge match to take care of, so I used the car.
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