ford 8.8 into camaro
12-25-2009, 03:33 PM
#21
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 529
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you can also rebuild the limited slip unit with an inexpensive clutch pack, and you can usually get an extra disk in the limited slip, tighening it up to the point its almost like a locker..
to add, most 9inch ford 2wd truck rearends are 65inches wide.. you can find them usually for around $100-%150, and most are 31 spline just have the wrong bolt pattern. you could then get a richmond 35 spline spool for around $200, and 35 spline moser axles cost the same as 31 spline axles you can also get dual bolt pattern axles, gears for anywhere around $150-$200 new... you can also get a disk brake kit for 9inches anywhere from around $300-$600... so you could get in a 9inch for under $1000.. you could probably look around and be patient and get one locally for less.. just another option...
if i were going to go that deep into a rearend either 8.8 or 9inch i would go ahead and add coilovers while i was uner there.. just be easier in the longrun, plus drop a little weight..
heres a shot of my frankland quickchange going in my roadster.. i converted in putting 9inch tube ends on it so i can run 9inch axles..
to add, most 9inch ford 2wd truck rearends are 65inches wide.. you can find them usually for around $100-%150, and most are 31 spline just have the wrong bolt pattern. you could then get a richmond 35 spline spool for around $200, and 35 spline moser axles cost the same as 31 spline axles you can also get dual bolt pattern axles, gears for anywhere around $150-$200 new... you can also get a disk brake kit for 9inches anywhere from around $300-$600... so you could get in a 9inch for under $1000.. you could probably look around and be patient and get one locally for less.. just another option...
if i were going to go that deep into a rearend either 8.8 or 9inch i would go ahead and add coilovers while i was uner there.. just be easier in the longrun, plus drop a little weight..
heres a shot of my frankland quickchange going in my roadster.. i converted in putting 9inch tube ends on it so i can run 9inch axles..
12-25-2009, 09:55 PM
#22
Well my question was specifically directed at using the Maximum Motorsports torque arm and all new parts except for the 8.8 housing. Now someone tally that up and give me a comparison not with any used parts and swap meet deals.
12-26-2009, 12:04 AM
#23
no problem guys its really a simple deal ive done 4 other cars using different setups and by far the easiest was using a maximum motorsports torque arm kit for a mustang makes it ultra simple to setup hte torque arm , w that kit the customer i did it for used the car as a autocrosser and it performed flawlessly then we put slicks on it and dead hooked at the track
12-26-2009, 02:56 PM
#24
^^^^ No I have the Strange bolt in S60-Dana 60 rear and I was saying I paid $2200 for it 4 years ago and for guys looking to do the 8.8 swap and keep a torque arm to do up a price comparison. I beleive if they use all new parts except for the 8.8 housing they will end up spending the same money as they would buying a bolt in rear.
12-26-2009, 05:52 PM
#25
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: New Berlin Wi
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The word NEW is the key to all this. I did the swap about 3 years ago. I didn't use the maximum mortorsports torque arm. I made an adapter that bolted onto the webing on the side of the centersection. it has worked for about 6000 miles and 2 times at the strip. The only new parts I used were a t lock rebuild kit, a gear install kit with a solid pinion spacer, and a new set of mosier custom axles,
My total complete down the road was 400 dollars and change. I did all the fab work myself. If you can't do the fab work or require all new parts then you are probably better getting a complete rear.
Kory
My total complete down the road was 400 dollars and change. I did all the fab work myself. If you can't do the fab work or require all new parts then you are probably better getting a complete rear.
Kory
12-31-2009, 01:24 PM
#26
maximummotorsports.com look under rear suspension for torque arms
they sell it set up for either round tube subframes or rectangular i use the rectangular setup. the nice thing about the kit is the fact that u keep all ur handling moves , but the car will dead hook at the track . and its a bolt on affair at the axle all u have to do is mount the crossmember to the chassis and ur DONE!
they sell it set up for either round tube subframes or rectangular i use the rectangular setup. the nice thing about the kit is the fact that u keep all ur handling moves , but the car will dead hook at the track . and its a bolt on affair at the axle all u have to do is mount the crossmember to the chassis and ur DONE!
01-01-2010, 08:36 AM
#30
if a reputable company makes them for mustangs then im sure its not that bad... but i like to gorilla proof everything as i call it. im a fabricator and machinist but i like getting ideas of how i can do something. if i had my car up in the air and the 8.8 under there i could see what it was i needed to do to get it just right. i dont want to do the 4 link style setup because my car is all about handling, and not going down the strip. even tho with a rear that wont blow up on me itll see frequent trips to the track.. also if i were to go this route id make brackets to reuse my lt1 rear brakes and id probably make mew axle tubes for it
01-04-2010, 08:20 PM
#31
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: OK,Elk City
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok so what year of housings do you want? I can pick up a disc brake 5 lug GT rear (1990) for a $100. But how much shorter are they from factory rears? My cars a 92 so its narrower than the 93-02.. Ideas? Is the swap really worth it? Or buy a $2300 rear?
01-08-2010, 10:12 AM
#34
Ok guys I ran an 8.8" for about 2yrs in my 95 T/A and ran 9.80's with it under my car until I finally destroyed a stock 10bolt axle at the track. Well it was a cheap and reliable alternative for the stock 10bolt but with the HP/tq + 200Hp n2o it was time for aftermarket axles, spool, etc.. so I sold that 8.8" to lloyd Elliott, which is still going strong in his old T/A. I made a killer deal on a used Moser 12bolt housing from a friend and built it up. If I wouldn't have made such a good deal on the 12bolt housing the 8.8" rear would still be under my T/A. On my 8.8" rear we cut the stock tubes off, welded a collar onto the 8.8' rear then welded the stock F-body tubes onto the collar. This way everything fit like factory, brakes, shocks swaybar everything except the torquearm. So we fabbed up a bracket for that also, reused the factory axles and all. It was a cheap alterantive to a $2,200+ moser. Now if you want to run quicker than low 10's you maybe better off going the bolt in Moser but for most guys that are running from high 11's to low 10's the 8.8" rear is a much cheaper option. Now if I can get a few guys interested I may start building and selling a few 8.8" housings already setup with a Torque arm mount, 10bolt axle tubes welded on in a fixed jig so everything is true. I would think it could be done for around $500+ core, just the housing ready for you to put in your gears, stock 8.8" posi (rebuilt) stock 10bolt axles etc.. for alot cheaper than $2,200. Lmk guys and maybe I can build a few for you guys needing a much stronger rear on a budget. Later Clint
01-08-2010, 11:37 AM
#35
That sounds badass Clint, do you have any pics of that setup? I'm really interested in doing this but I wasn't too fond of the mini ladder setup, if retaining the T/A is easy enough I'd love to dive into this project as I have a spare 10 bolt lying around. Could you send me a PM of what I might need to get started, thanks a bunch 
01-08-2010, 02:31 PM
#37
^^ x3 I just had 3.73's put in my 10 bolt but I'm thinking that I'm going to be making more horsepower by the summer time so I'm going to want a better upgrade than just a girdle.
Clint, where are you located? I'd love to take out my rearend and see what you could do with it, and then let everyone else see your work.
Clint, where are you located? I'd love to take out my rearend and see what you could do with it, and then let everyone else see your work.
01-10-2010, 01:27 PM
#38
I live in Louisiana so that is a long ways away. I talked with a friend of mine, who is a Moser dealer, yesterday and they sell the Moser 12bolt housings for AROUND $500 and they are ready to bolt in 93-02 F-bodys. The only thing about that is you need to buy new axles, gears, posi or spool etc.. but I could get all the parts to build a complete 12bolt for you guys for alot cheaper than $2,000. Anyone who is interested shoot me a PM and I will get pricing. LMK Later Clint
11-22-2012, 08:32 PM
#40
Teching In
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok guys I ran an 8.8" for about 2yrs in my 95 T/A and ran 9.80's with it under my car until I finally destroyed a stock 10bolt axle at the track. Well it was a cheap and reliable alternative for the stock 10bolt but with the HP/tq + 200Hp n2o it was time for aftermarket axles, spool, etc.. so I sold that 8.8" to lloyd Elliott, which is still going strong in his old T/A. I made a killer deal on a used Moser 12bolt housing from a friend and built it up. If I wouldn't have made such a good deal on the 12bolt housing the 8.8" rear would still be under my T/A. On my 8.8" rear we cut the stock tubes off, welded a collar onto the 8.8' rear then welded the stock F-body tubes onto the collar. This way everything fit like factory, brakes, shocks swaybar everything except the torquearm. So we fabbed up a bracket for that also, reused the factory axles and all. It was a cheap alterantive to a $2,200+ moser. Now if you want to run quicker than low 10's you maybe better off going the bolt in Moser but for most guys that are running from high 11's to low 10's the 8.8" rear is a much cheaper option. Now if I can get a few guys interested I may start building and selling a few 8.8" housings already setup with a Torque arm mount, 10bolt axle tubes welded on in a fixed jig so everything is true. I would think it could be done for around $500+ core, just the housing ready for you to put in your gears, stock 8.8" posi (rebuilt) stock 10bolt axles etc.. for alot cheaper than $2,200. Lmk guys and maybe I can build a few for you guys needing a much stronger rear on a budget. Later Clint
