Carb conversion parts : full list
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From: Bahrain
Carb conversion parts : full list Creating my shopping list, I know I need these so far:
Conversion intake manifold
Fuel pressure regulator
HEI distributor (what brand do I go for? and will I need a short one to clear under the windscreen? I know some trimming needs to be done)
Cowl hood for the carb filter assembly (having that custom made at a friends shop)
Air filter and assembly
Carb (what CFM should I go for? I have a CC503 and I did some gasket matching to the intake runners with some cleaning up)
My engine is a 94 so I will just weld up the opti hole
Required gaskets and probs a spacer for the carb
I know my trans won't work with it, so I will go with a TH400 and a stall, what stall do I need? Also will go with a TransGo shift kit
MSD wires and coil, heat sleeves to protect the wires from the headers
A new fuel filter
Have I missed out anything?
Conversion intake manifold
Fuel pressure regulator
HEI distributor (what brand do I go for? and will I need a short one to clear under the windscreen? I know some trimming needs to be done)
Cowl hood for the carb filter assembly (having that custom made at a friends shop)
Air filter and assembly
Carb (what CFM should I go for? I have a CC503 and I did some gasket matching to the intake runners with some cleaning up)
My engine is a 94 so I will just weld up the opti hole
Required gaskets and probs a spacer for the carb
I know my trans won't work with it, so I will go with a TH400 and a stall, what stall do I need? Also will go with a TransGo shift kit
MSD wires and coil, heat sleeves to protect the wires from the headers
A new fuel filter
Have I missed out anything?
Yes you also need to change the fuel pump, filter and regulator to something like a Holley Black pump 140 gph @ 9 psi. Carbs don't need any more than 7-9 psi of fuel pressure. Your stall will depend on the cam duration and rear gear ratio you have but a 2800 stall should be fine. As for a carb I would use a vacuum secondarywith an auto trans. By the way I have a new GMPP LT1 carbed intake, new Barry Grant 750 double pumper and 850 vacuum secondary carbs and a new Accel HEI distributor for sale email me at aero.coupe@hotmail.com for more info and pictures.
Thread Starter
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Yes you also need to change the fuel pump, filter and regulator to something like a Holley Black pump 140 gph @ 9 psi. Carbs don't need any more than 7-9 psi of fuel pressure. Your stall will depend on the cam duration and rear gear ratio you have but a 2800 stall should be fine. As for a carb I would use a vacuum secondarywith an auto trans. By the way I have a new GMPP LT1 carbed intake, new Barry Grant 750 double pumper and 850 vacuum secondary carbs and a new Accel HEI distributor for sale email me at aero.coupe@hotmail.com for more info and pictures.
I want to keep the 2.73s until I break them, I could even go for a 700R-4 (build it well of course) because I love to drive the car and don't want to drive around with high RPM.
I will do a search, these are just the parts I know are needed, I wanna make sure I missed nothing.
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Thread Starter
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From: Bahrain
I did a search, found out Mallory makes a cheaper regulator to avoid replacing the fuel pump to run carb.
I could not find what type of distributor works best with the LT1, any suggestions guys?
What CFM carb should I run with it?
I could not find what type of distributor works best with the LT1, any suggestions guys?
What CFM carb should I run with it?
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here are just my conversion parts:
1. Holley Blue EFP w/ regulator set on 7psi
2. 750 vacuum holley
3. jegs throttle cable bracket w/ built in return springs
4. MSD HEI distributor
5. opti lock off plate w/ built in timing pointer
6. GM dual plane carbed intake, my single plane is on its way
7. TH350 trans, built to hell!
8. balancer w/ timing marks
this setup works great!, i made 412rwhp and 430rwt, on a dynojet dyno.
before u ask i dont have the papers, this was 2 years ago and i lost the papers somewhere?!?
1. Holley Blue EFP w/ regulator set on 7psi
2. 750 vacuum holley
3. jegs throttle cable bracket w/ built in return springs
4. MSD HEI distributor
5. opti lock off plate w/ built in timing pointer
6. GM dual plane carbed intake, my single plane is on its way
7. TH350 trans, built to hell!
8. balancer w/ timing marks
this setup works great!, i made 412rwhp and 430rwt, on a dynojet dyno.
before u ask i dont have the papers, this was 2 years ago and i lost the papers somewhere?!?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Bahrain
here are just my conversion parts:
1. Holley Blue EFP w/ regulator set on 7psi
2. 750 vacuum holley
3. jegs throttle cable bracket w/ built in return springs
4. MSD HEI distributor
5. opti lock off plate w/ built in timing pointer
6. GM dual plane carbed intake, my single plane is on its way
7. TH350 trans, built to hell!
8. balancer w/ timing marks
this setup works great!, i made 412rwhp and 430rwt, on a dynojet dyno.
before u ask i dont have the papers, this was 2 years ago and i lost the papers somewhere?!?
1. Holley Blue EFP w/ regulator set on 7psi
2. 750 vacuum holley
3. jegs throttle cable bracket w/ built in return springs
4. MSD HEI distributor
5. opti lock off plate w/ built in timing pointer
6. GM dual plane carbed intake, my single plane is on its way
7. TH350 trans, built to hell!
8. balancer w/ timing marks
this setup works great!, i made 412rwhp and 430rwt, on a dynojet dyno.
before u ask i dont have the papers, this was 2 years ago and i lost the papers somewhere?!?
Any modules needed?
My motor is a 94, I could just have the opti hold welded shut.
mine is a 96.
its just an MSD coil in cap HEI,vacuum, but the vacuum canister is removed and plugged off. It has the MSD 4 pin module inside with a small rev limiter, it works great, i turn mine to 7k on a weekly basis, no breakup or stumbling!
no triggers or pickups on mine, superconductor wires, autolite plugs, and the MSD HEI, thats all my ignition consists of. not even a box yet, but i plan on a digital 6 plus, if i can ever afford one.
Thread Starter
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mine is a 96.
its just an MSD coil in cap HEI,vacuum, but the vacuum canister is removed and plugged off. It has the MSD 4 pin module inside with a small rev limiter, it works great, i turn mine to 7k on a weekly basis, no breakup or stumbling!
no triggers or pickups on mine, superconductor wires, autolite plugs, and the MSD HEI, thats all my ignition consists of. not even a box yet, but i plan on a digital 6 plus, if i can ever afford one.
its just an MSD coil in cap HEI,vacuum, but the vacuum canister is removed and plugged off. It has the MSD 4 pin module inside with a small rev limiter, it works great, i turn mine to 7k on a weekly basis, no breakup or stumbling!
no triggers or pickups on mine, superconductor wires, autolite plugs, and the MSD HEI, thats all my ignition consists of. not even a box yet, but i plan on a digital 6 plus, if i can ever afford one.
Do you perhaps have a PN that I could use?
Thanks bro
http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD+Ignition/121/8362/10002/-1
my module.
http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD+Ignition/121/83645/10002/-1
here is an optional vacuum lockout plate, i had it installed then took ti out cuz it didnt make a difference to me in performance!?!?
http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD-Ignition/1...oductId=751691
No offense but unless you're doing a swap to an early body style (ie. 70's Nova) why would you want to swap to a carb in a 4th gen f body? This is just my opinion, but I say stay fuel injected and have more fun driving your car than worrying about it.....
Just my $.02
Just my $.02
i am goin to a FAST XFI stand alone later, and MSD crank trigger setup, im a carb guy but the world is moving EFI, so, why not stay that way, but i am happy with mine at the moment.
to each his own!
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I wanted to go with the coil per cylinder LS1 PCM setup, but going to see what would be my best option.
Carb is less maintenance, and less to go wrong.
But EFI is more efficient of course, fuel economy is the least of my concerns though. I also get to keep my 4L60E, so thats a plus in itself.
I used to have a bbc in my old nova before I sold it so I can still do the carb stuff.
This distributor will work perfect for your build
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8360/
You will need a ignition box as well and this will suffice just fine but if you want to spend the money and have I would get the second box, but the first will work fantastic
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-685/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-7520/
You will need a coil for that as well and this will work great
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8203/
That will get the car to fire up and run right with, a rev limiter and and vac. adv if you want it or plug it up since it dont do much anyway. Most of those parts you can find used anyway and they will work fine perfect if they are sold in good condition anyway.
This distributor will work perfect for your build
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8360/
You will need a ignition box as well and this will suffice just fine but if you want to spend the money and have I would get the second box, but the first will work fantastic
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-685/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-7520/
You will need a coil for that as well and this will work great
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8203/
That will get the car to fire up and run right with, a rev limiter and and vac. adv if you want it or plug it up since it dont do much anyway. Most of those parts you can find used anyway and they will work fine perfect if they are sold in good condition anyway.
I am building up the shopping list, and trying to see what it would cost me.
I wanted to go with the coil per cylinder LS1 PCM setup, but going to see what would be my best option.
Carb is less maintenance, and less to go wrong.
But EFI is more efficient of course, fuel economy is the least of my concerns though. I also get to keep my 4L60E, so thats a plus in itself.
I wanted to go with the coil per cylinder LS1 PCM setup, but going to see what would be my best option.
Carb is less maintenance, and less to go wrong.
But EFI is more efficient of course, fuel economy is the least of my concerns though. I also get to keep my 4L60E, so thats a plus in itself.
the one benefit for a carb is a race car.... where simplicity can sometimes outweigh an expensive fuel injected setup. no $700 laptop needed, no $2,000 f.a.s.t., and 20lbs less wiring needed. and when a random problem pops up, the troubleshooting takes half the time with a carb.
imo, of course.