yup then the track tells you to leave and take your airbags are for safety bucket-o-unsafe bolts home!

 

have to disagree on using the car's potential value as a reason to skip a rollbar... I also say skip a rollbar and throw a 10 pt. in it. probably only cost you 20 pounds, then you can focus on going 8.49 rather than how much an lt1 ws6 will be worth in 40 years

 

I have a bolt in Wolf Racecraft bar, to be legal to 10.0 the rear down bars have to be welded to the hoop. No one has ever checked mine.

I tell you what, I wasnt going to put a bar in mine until I saw a car that weighed 3500lbs and ran 10.90 hit the wall at 1/2 track.

3500lb cars have ALOT of energy it takes a LONG time to dissipate that energy. In other words think about the car flipping on the guardrail at 120+ mph. If you are gonna put a bar in the car put GOOD seats and belts in there also.

 

that's another thing... a set of kirkey seats offsets quite a bit of weight...

 

The other thing that youy guys are missing is that a properly installed roll bar will actually help the car go down the track better. I have had great luck with S & W. Chrome Moly is the only way to go.

 

Get different interior panels/carpet and cut those up. Save the originals. That way if you ever go back it'll leave no trace. Either that or just throw together a PVC pipe cage, paint it black and call it a day!

 

put that one back to stock and mothball it if your worried about the value then buy a roller and put all your stuff in it. That should be your decision not a cage or not. Your safety if something bad happens is way more important than if the car may be worth something eventually.

 

Been there done that.....usually only works for ins./registration purposes. NHRA tracks don't like 'em .

I've been in a car that hit the wall at 130+ The cage is the only reason I am around to give some advise. I say cage up. I know the car has "potential" value. But there are plenty of LS7 powered Chevelles that were turned into drag cars and still hold value. Same goes for ZL1 powered Camaros. The value is in the chassis and its condition. If someone wants it bad enough they'll pay for it no matter what you've done to it. Besides, if the cage is done well it can be removed in the future. I say go for at least an 8pt if not a 10pt....They are well worth the investment "if" something were to happen.....

 

Thinning of the herd anyone?

 

Really? Thats it? Damn looks like Im gonna need a cage then, or did you mean 10.0? 11.0 @135 is like Supra ETs. lol
Screw it Ive decided the car will never go back to stock anyways. So Ill put a bar/cage in it.
Its not really a question of safety. I want the cage for that reason and think they look cool, thats if you car actually needs it.
I really dont want to chop the dash..........and IM not doing an around the dash style. Thats the ugliest **** I have ever seen. How low does an 8pt cert to?

 

Whichever comes first. Basically whatever one is first can do just as much damage as the other.
The PVC cage was a joke. I knew someone who did it, got caught and was kicked out for the season.

 

I am running into a similar delima. My GTO runs mid 10s on the 150 shot but I very rarely go to the track. Maybe 3 times a years. I also have 3 kids who like to ride with me every chance they get and with them being small and in booster seats it would make it very difficult. The cost is the other sticking point for me. My wife does not want me to spend any more money on the car period. If it came down to it the car would never be tracked again in her eyes before she would OK a cage build.

 

as far as i know a roll bar is required at 11.49 and good to 10.0 right?

 

check this out roll bar rules. It's a little old (2007) but most of it still applies. I think the only thing that really changed was the requirements for 8.49 and quicker. I know the modded the rules regarding the way the the 10pts are done. So you should be good up until that point.

 

lol I know I would never try that. Although I do have a PVC hockey net I could convert instead of buying new pvc, and I could use it as a window net too.

I have No kids, so thats not an issue, and I never put people in the back. Not to mention the car goes to the track more than its drivin around on the street. SO for me its just an issue of if I should mess with the car.
Now if I did have kids or ever put people in the back I would not put in a cage.

 

or 135 wich ever comes first.

 

I keep all my stock parts no matter what ! In my build now i even got a donor motor cause i really dont want to build up my block that came in the car but i have been thinking of making it a 383. Im sure that will not happen though, Probably just rebuild it to stock with all new GM parts. Yes i know its not like the old days where there is a serial number on the block matching the car

 

I still have my original engine in the spare bedroom. I want to leave it alone but also want to build a stroker while I blow this engine up.

 

A weld in 5-6 point is good to 10.0, a bolt in 5-6 point is good to 10.0 if the rear down bars are welded to the hoop(no one ever checks this).

 

Why the hell are bolt in bars so much more expensive?