Roll bar or NO roll bar....that is the question????
12-30-2009, 01:19 PM
#41
The real question is do you drive on the street alot and have passengers regularly. I don't enjoy my car on the street anymore due to the possibility of catastrophic head injury from my roll bar even if in a minor accident. Many rollbar guys preach safety but give no thought to the street part of a street/strip build. I no longer want my wife to ride with me, forget about kids. I'll probably end up cutting mine out eventually. If I had to do it over I would get a bolt-in for track days only and hope I didn't get caught over the main hoop welding issue. Good luck with your decision,
Larry
Larry
12-30-2009, 01:33 PM
#43
There's really no point in putting them back in with a rollbar installed.
I actually have more cargo room this way
I only carry one (adult) passenger at a time anyhow.
The kids are banned from my car until they're big enough to sit in the front seat safely.
The driver's side swingout is usually in the trunk when I'm on the street.
I put it in at the track.
.
12-30-2009, 02:01 PM
#44
I hear you about your concerns...
This is how I look at it myself...I was once worried about hacking the car up because of the rarity and the mileage. Then I figured no matter how much it may potentially be worth one day, I still won't sell it. So whether the car is worth $500 or $500k in 40 years, it's still going to be in my garage. Considering that, I might as well build it the way I want it and enjoy it.
I would do the cage for your own sake. I don't particularly like cages for street driving but I wouldn't want to risk my life at the track. I have hit oil once doing about 90-95mph that the track people completely missed and I almost went into the wall. Even at a lower ET or MPH level you can still hit water, oil, antifreeze etc. and go into the wall.
BTW, how did you find out the build# for your car? I haven't been able to find that out for mine.
This is how I look at it myself...I was once worried about hacking the car up because of the rarity and the mileage. Then I figured no matter how much it may potentially be worth one day, I still won't sell it. So whether the car is worth $500 or $500k in 40 years, it's still going to be in my garage. Considering that, I might as well build it the way I want it and enjoy it.
I would do the cage for your own sake. I don't particularly like cages for street driving but I wouldn't want to risk my life at the track. I have hit oil once doing about 90-95mph that the track people completely missed and I almost went into the wall. Even at a lower ET or MPH level you can still hit water, oil, antifreeze etc. and go into the wall.
BTW, how did you find out the build# for your car? I haven't been able to find that out for mine.
12-30-2009, 02:10 PM
#45
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I hear you about your concerns...
This is how I look at it myself...I was once worried about hacking the car up because of the rarity and the mileage. Then I figured no matter how much it may potentially be worth one day, I still won't sell it. So whether the car is worth $500 or $500k in 40 years, it's still going to be in my garage. Considering that, I might as well build it the way I want it and enjoy it.
I would do the cage for your own sake. I don't particularly like cages for street driving but I wouldn't want to risk my life at the track. I have hit oil once doing about 90-95mph that the track people completely missed and I almost went into the wall. Even at a lower ET or MPH level you can still hit water, oil, antifreeze etc. and go into the wall.
BTW, how did you find out the build# for your car? I haven't been able to find that out for mine.
This is how I look at it myself...I was once worried about hacking the car up because of the rarity and the mileage. Then I figured no matter how much it may potentially be worth one day, I still won't sell it. So whether the car is worth $500 or $500k in 40 years, it's still going to be in my garage. Considering that, I might as well build it the way I want it and enjoy it.
I would do the cage for your own sake. I don't particularly like cages for street driving but I wouldn't want to risk my life at the track. I have hit oil once doing about 90-95mph that the track people completely missed and I almost went into the wall. Even at a lower ET or MPH level you can still hit water, oil, antifreeze etc. and go into the wall.
BTW, how did you find out the build# for your car? I haven't been able to find that out for mine.
12-30-2009, 02:42 PM
#46
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I'm in the same situation as you man. Car is 1 of 524 built in 96 and 1 of 113 black WS6 Formulas. I REALLY don't want to put a cage in it. But with the 383 and a 200 shot on top of it, I will need a cage.
I have sat many a nights wondering about my car, debating if I want to put a cage in it or not. But this is the way I see it. NOTHING in the car is stock anymore. The motor, front suspension, rear suspension, tranny, rear end, hell even the middle console is out of a newer F body, on top of that I did not keep any of the stock parts. When I bought the car is was already modded, so really, how much is the car worth?
Being only 14 years old, the car is worth as much as any other Forumla on the road. It doesn't matter if it is 1 of 113 or 1 of 500,000, anyone wanting to buy it is just going to get you whatever "blue book" says on it. Maybe after another 10+ years or so they MIGHT be worth money. But this isn't the Golden Age of hot rods like the late 60's were. Those cars back then were a real 'First', not just a first of a specific type. Sadly enough, I really doubt our cars will be worth anymore than what they are now anytime in the future.
Besides, say in 20 years they are worth 100K, if I still have this car in 20 years, I'm pretty sure it will have a permanent home and will go with me to the grave. If I were to get rid of it, it would be within the next 5-10 years and I doubt the value of them would go up in that time.
For safety, put a cage in it. No one ever rides in the back of these things unless they are 8 or a midget. If me and you both go as fast as we want to, a wreck at those speeds would leave us with a different decision, do you want apple sauce or mashed potatoes fed through your tube today?
I have sat many a nights wondering about my car, debating if I want to put a cage in it or not. But this is the way I see it. NOTHING in the car is stock anymore. The motor, front suspension, rear suspension, tranny, rear end, hell even the middle console is out of a newer F body, on top of that I did not keep any of the stock parts. When I bought the car is was already modded, so really, how much is the car worth?
Being only 14 years old, the car is worth as much as any other Forumla on the road. It doesn't matter if it is 1 of 113 or 1 of 500,000, anyone wanting to buy it is just going to get you whatever "blue book" says on it. Maybe after another 10+ years or so they MIGHT be worth money. But this isn't the Golden Age of hot rods like the late 60's were. Those cars back then were a real 'First', not just a first of a specific type. Sadly enough, I really doubt our cars will be worth anymore than what they are now anytime in the future.
Besides, say in 20 years they are worth 100K, if I still have this car in 20 years, I'm pretty sure it will have a permanent home and will go with me to the grave. If I were to get rid of it, it would be within the next 5-10 years and I doubt the value of them would go up in that time.
For safety, put a cage in it. No one ever rides in the back of these things unless they are 8 or a midget. If me and you both go as fast as we want to, a wreck at those speeds would leave us with a different decision, do you want apple sauce or mashed potatoes fed through your tube today?
12-30-2009, 02:52 PM
#47
Have you looked at wolf? They have a kit that adds onto a chromoly six point roll bar. It's weld in, but might be an option for you. Live with the roll bar for a while and if your car gets faster or you are ok with a cage, move to it later on down the road. Just a thought.
Last edited by 355TurboLT1; 12-30-2009 at 02:53 PM. Reason: spelling
12-30-2009, 03:42 PM
#51
Rob shoot me a PM on the rear panels. I will start with a 6point and go from there. That should be ok at most of the events Ill run or tracks Ill visit. Does any one have some good pics of the rear bars throught the panels, and some over the rear seat seat style? Again anyone have an Idea on why bolt in cages are so much more expensive? its basically the same thing w/ bolt holes right?
12-30-2009, 04:03 PM
#54
Here are a few shots of my rear bars right after I got it back from the shop but before I installed my interior. My fabricator changed the rear bars from going through the speaker holes to this area on the decklid. He said the rear wheel wells will flex a little and the area where he mounted is tied directly into the frame.
This was originally a Wolfe CM jig notched bar with swingouts. If I were you I would find a good local fabricator to build it for you. It will be cheaper and fit better. I'm not a fan of Wolfes swingouts and if I keep it I am changing to Chassisworks hinges and I wasn't happy with the fitment of the main hoop. I would have preferred it to tuck and contour to the headliner and sail panel better. Good luck,
Larry
Last edited by VIPRETR2; 12-30-2009 at 04:11 PM.
12-30-2009, 04:12 PM
#55
Rob shoot me a PM on the rear panels. I will start with a 6point and go from there. That should be ok at most of the events Ill run or tracks Ill visit. Does any one have some good pics of the rear bars throught the panels, and some over the rear seat seat style? Again anyone have an Idea on why bolt in cages are so much more expensive? its basically the same thing w/ bolt holes right?
Why do you need rear panels? My rear bars attach above the gas tank.
12-30-2009, 04:27 PM
#56
Wolfe has 2 styles. I thought you had to cut them if you go though them, and If I cut holes I would want spares to do it on.
I also was thinking the weld ins would kinda be a slip fit then welded. Not just hold 2pcs together then weld em up.
Theres a local guy with a Wolf bolt in 6pt with a DS swing out, hes asking 600 for it. I was thinking about picking it up untill I just read your post about Wolfe
I also was thinking the weld ins would kinda be a slip fit then welded. Not just hold 2pcs together then weld em up.
Theres a local guy with a Wolf bolt in 6pt with a DS swing out, hes asking 600 for it. I was thinking about picking it up untill I just read your post about Wolfe
Last edited by AChotrod; 12-30-2009 at 05:36 PM.
12-30-2009, 08:10 PM
#58
Wolfe has 2 styles. I thought you had to cut them if you go though them, and If I cut holes I would want spares to do it on.
I also was thinking the weld ins would kinda be a slip fit then welded. Not just hold 2pcs together then weld em up.
Theres a local guy with a Wolf bolt in 6pt with a DS swing out, hes asking 600 for it. I was thinking about picking it up untill I just read your post about Wolfe
I also was thinking the weld ins would kinda be a slip fit then welded. Not just hold 2pcs together then weld em up.
Theres a local guy with a Wolf bolt in 6pt with a DS swing out, hes asking 600 for it. I was thinking about picking it up untill I just read your post about Wolfe
Larry
12-30-2009, 08:10 PM
#59
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Mike once you cross this bridge you might as well take some weight out and make it more of a drag car. I didn't get a bar for a long time because I couldn't decide and now that I have one it's not as much fun to drive. harder to get in and out. I have swing outs which helps but you lose that element of surprise once that bar goes in everyone is going to call it a racecar and want spots.
12-30-2009, 09:07 PM
#60
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i like your style