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You may have left out the "NOT".

Camaro350z2897

iTrader: (2)

^^ ya he did. i have been using 10w-40 for most of my lt1's castrol

ThreeHonks

iTrader: (10)

mobil 1 0w40 in the T/A (after broken in)

5w30 in the stock bottom end Camaro

brucer

have any of you tried the Brad Penn oil?

and as far as who i would trust as far as someone recommending an oil to me? i would recommend a proven engine builder before i would a scientist for sure..an engine builder sees engines and components that have been used in real world situations for long periods of time..not simulations

personally i think the 5w30 oils are to light, and promote dry starts to the topend of the engine..

what i have noticed over the years is the longevity of engines.. engines do not last as long as they use too,catastrophic failure usually. engineers are designing engines to wear, they're designing components to fail... i know this from being in the tool&die trade and have seen it first hand..

brianswimmer23

in my new engine since first oil change(after break in) i have been using Amsoil 5W30

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

WHAT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cani just get the cliff notes please ! LOL I was just asking LT1 or LT-1

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Oiling wise the only big difference between an LT-1 and LT1 would be the LT-1 got flat tappets.
If you hadn't noticed the LT1 is VERY similar to the Gen 1 motors.

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

That one item should have a major influence in choice of oils betwean the two.

I still really don't get the point of this whole thread and even a poll on "what kind of oil are you running".

The two things that I see the most in the LT1 cores that I get are sludge and carbon build-up. I'm no expert, but I would think that the sludge is a result of not changing the oil enough and the carbon is the result of cheap gas and improper tune. I'm one of those guys that gets 200,000-300,000 out of a gas burning small block. I give the credit to frequent oil changes with whatever weight the manual suggests, tune, and running super unleaded.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Yes I know flat tappets change oil requirements BUT guys were talking about bearing damage from other weights and such and bearing wise I think you will agree they are pretty similar.

In my first post I said flat tappets would like more ZDDP.

355TurboLT1

iTrader: (11)

As you can see you left out the "NOT" part. I took it as you were attacking me for no reason since I did not make those statements. I was in the process of correcting them. No hard feelings man. Misunderstanding, it happens.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

These days you see catastrophic engine failures because they do not slowly wear out like they used to and we are pushing big HP out of high mile stuff. New engines are much better than the old stuff from tolerances to materials everything, the engine controls are so much better they wash the cylinders down less resulting in less wear.

You are not going to take a 70s 350 stock shortblock and push 400rwhp from them the way we do with the LT1s even though the engine architecture is the same. A 70s 350 will likely be a smoker by 100K yet there are guys here doing heads/cam at 150K and having good results doing it.

buffman

iTrader: (9)

Brad penn is pretty good oil.

I would trust an engine builder to recommend me a weight of oil to run, not brand, unless he had many UOAs to back up his claims that XX oil blew his motors up, but BB didn't. In reality with most modern engines any BRAND oil that is API cert'd will be just fine for use in your engine. When you start to want max oil change intervals, lowest wear possible, etc, then it pays to start putting your oil choice thru a UOA. Otherwise, you're just making guesses at what oil is "better". I could show you a 150K LT1 that still had cross hatches in the cylinders, and the bearings looked good, yet there was sludge in the oil pan.

Most modern engines I've seen outlast more than yesteryear. People these days think things are buy it and throw it away when you need a new one. They're not interested most of the time for keeping a car for 15+yrs.

I ran 0w30 German Castrol in my LT1 when I had it. UOAs showed M1 0w40 to shear too much, and wear results were not the greatest.

ThreeHonks

iTrader: (10)

What is a UOA? sorrry if im oblivious

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Used Oil Analysis.

99screamindemon

i use full synthetic 10w-30 valvoline oil

355TurboLT1

iTrader: (11)

You make some valid points and there is indeed no magic oil. Keep in mind though that UOA's can only be used to track wear trends over many many miles usaully in a fleet type of situation. A UOA is more of an indicator of how an oil is doing and how long it has left (insoluables, TBN, visc,coolant leaks....)in service. For years people thought you could compare brand a vs brand b via UOA. This simply is not true and is an angle some oil blenders use to sell oil.

We have one individual on BITOG, Mr. Doug Hillary who has perfromed UOA's over millions of miles in large diesel trucks. Here he can clearly see some wear patterns and it has been well documented. For you and I it is more of a safety net. There are as you realize so many variables. GC (german castrol) use to be the favorite for some time over at bitog and is a good oil, but it is very thick for a 30wt and there are no doubt better performers for the money. Mobil 1 0w-40 has different base oils and additives than regular Mobil 1 and is a well proven oil in racing(widely used in road racing circuits all over the world) and does tend to shear a bit at first but stabalizes quite nicely soon afterward.

I prefer Goup V synthetics(Redline,Motul,NEO). For regular duty you will most likely never see a difference between a group III synthetic and a group II dino as long as the OCI is appropriate. When it is extended thats really where a Group III base oil will shine.

NewOrleansLT1

Royal Purple 10-40wt here.

texas94z

Mobil 1 10W-40 HM.

buffman

iTrader: (9)

You can still gather enough information over a trend of say 15-20,000 miles whether or not the oil you're putting thru your car is doing all it can do. If it's shearing for no obvious reason (no coolant or fuel dillution) beyond your safety net, it may be wise to try a thicker and or different oil. If you don't like an oil with a lot of Sodium (can be confused with coolant leak) a UOA will help you show that. It's not a tell all be all thing, and can't as you said easily tell you A is better than B, but it does help bring factual data to making a recommendation of an oil in a particular engine. I've tracked enough mile (25K) on my wife's 01 cavalier with Mobil Clean 5000 10w30 to prove it can go 6K in her car with her driving habits (used to be more when she was all highway). I see no need to go to a synthetic in the car when I can go 6K with good UOAs, on an oil change I pay $8 for (car only uses 4 quarts of oil, I get it on sale for $9.99 for 5 quarts and filter)

ThreeHonks

iTrader: (10)

where can you get a UOA done at?