7/16 cap screw I beams with a 383?
#1
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Just wondering whos running this and what your thoughts were. Im possible changing directions on my build and was going to run a 6" I beam rod with 7/16 cap screws.
Also wondering what splayed main caps people are running? Im might just stay 2 bolt with arp main studs and will be running a forged crank eagle, scat, or compstar depending on the funds.
Also wondering what splayed main caps people are running? Im might just stay 2 bolt with arp main studs and will be running a forged crank eagle, scat, or compstar depending on the funds.
#2
TECH Senior Member
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Just wondering whos running this and what your thoughts were. Im possible changing directions on my build and was going to run a 6" I beam rod with 7/16 cap screws.
Also wondering what splayed main caps people are running? Im might just stay 2 bolt with arp main studs and will be running a forged crank eagle, scat, or compstar depending on the funds.
Also wondering what splayed main caps people are running? Im might just stay 2 bolt with arp main studs and will be running a forged crank eagle, scat, or compstar depending on the funds.
6" rod all the way!
#5
LS1TECH Sponsor
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Personally if you are going to the trouble of building a stroker motor, I would do 4 bolt mains.... especially if you intend to spray it a little. I have seen evidence of main cap movement on motors in the 550 flywheel hp range. This is not hard to achieve with a small shot of juice.
As for the original question of rods, there is an extreme spread of quality in rods, all available with 7/16" bolts. Be sure to get a stroker series of rod that offers more bolt to oil pan rail clearance so you have less chance of grinding into the water jackets when you clearance the block.
My suggestion is to spend a little more now so you do not wish you had a stronger motor later. From experience, most people do not stop improving their cars.... meaning it will evolve further in the future. I have customers that skimp on their first build (against my recommendation), only to come back & buy the same parts (of better quality) all over again a year or 2 later.
As for the original question of rods, there is an extreme spread of quality in rods, all available with 7/16" bolts. Be sure to get a stroker series of rod that offers more bolt to oil pan rail clearance so you have less chance of grinding into the water jackets when you clearance the block.
My suggestion is to spend a little more now so you do not wish you had a stronger motor later. From experience, most people do not stop improving their cars.... meaning it will evolve further in the future. I have customers that skimp on their first build (against my recommendation), only to come back & buy the same parts (of better quality) all over again a year or 2 later.