dropping my motor so many problems
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
dropping my motor so many problems Okay im dropping my motor from the bottom, i was told to remove the drive shaft rather than disconnecting the trans from the motor, so first step (basiclly not really) remove the driveshaft, only theres so much **** in the way and my car is on the 2 tires and i cant rotate the drive shaft to get to the other side, does it reall nnot make sense to disconnect the trans from the motor?
Best thing you can do is jack up the rear and rotate the tires and get that driveshaft out. It's real easy to drop the k-member. Just make sure you disconnect the brake lines from the ABS unit.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
Okay so im about to just unbolt the trans and softly lay the driveshaft on the floor after the yoke slides out from the transmission and motor coming out, theres seriously no way for me to unbolt the driveshaft with out it rotating ITS JUST NOT POSSIBLE! and I feel that I have removed far to many things for this to be the right way, people say they drop motors in 3 hours, its taking me a week and its still not out, ive done everything disconnect the electrix, drain oil coolant trans fluid, (removed the intake manifold) coolant resivior, batt., strut towers, working on the exhaust, intake and all the **** that goes with it, radiator, fan, disconnected the A/C lines, can anyone give me some hints to make this go faster i don't see how its possible in 3 days let alone hours!!!
Relax man.. What do you mean the driveshaft keeps turning? Pull the e-brake up and make sure the transmission is in park - it won't spin. There was no need for you to remove the intake manifold, radiator, coolant reservoir, fans or any of that.. The a/c lines, transmission cooler lines, power steering hoses (from reservoir) and brake lines should be the only "lines" that need to be removed when dropping the motor. Then of course the engine harness, remove shifter cable, driveshaft, etc. Then unbolt the tranny crossmember, sway bar bolts, 6 k-member bolts (rest the engine/kframe on a jack or something), then unbolt the strut tower bolts (should be 4 on each side, two of them might be a torx bit). I couldn't tell ya why it has taken you this long and still not done. 
P.S I've done it at a junkyard with the most basic hand tools (and the help of a friend) in ONE hour.. Let me know if you need to know anything else..
P.S I've done it at a junkyard with the most basic hand tools (and the help of a friend) in ONE hour.. Let me know if you need to know anything else..
Last edited by 1badzee; Jan 12, 2010 at 02:18 PM.
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Ya I'm confused aswell..I can get mine out the bottom myself in about an hour..
Not tryin to brag..we are just tryin to figure out where your snag is. Just don't get in a hurry and flustered and un-bolt the K-member and drop the thing on your chest.. it'll be like droppin a fat chick except without the cushioning..
Not tryin to brag..we are just tryin to figure out where your snag is. Just don't get in a hurry and flustered and un-bolt the K-member and drop the thing on your chest.. it'll be like droppin a fat chick except without the cushioning..
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Launching!
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
I relize now i have to somehow jack up the back end (use some blocks of wood) to turn the drive shaft to get to the 4 bolts that hold the shaft to the diff. and try and squeeze it through the exhaust and w.e. that long black bar that runs parallel to the shaft, this just turned out to be more of a project then I though and its 30 degrees out so Im a little irratable, plus im doing this in my garage with hand tools... thanks for the help you guys, tips are always welcome 
I relize now i have to somehow jack up the back end (use some blocks of wood) to turn the drive shaft to get to the 4 bolts that hold the shaft to the diff. and try and squeeze it through the exhaust and w.e. that long black bar that runs parallel to the shaft, this just turned out to be more of a project then I though and its 30 degrees out so Im a little irratable, plus im doing this in my garage with hand tools... thanks for the help you guys, tips are always welcome
It should be fairly straightforward to pull the motor...as 1badzee stated. Him and I removed a motor in about 1-2 hours from a junkyard. Just take your time, use logic, and think things through. I know you might be tempted to rush....
I'm pretty sure I sent you this link once already...
http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html
http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html
No AC cause it's deleted, and Power Steeing comes with the Engine on the Cradle..I love that, trust me..
Last time it came out and went in through the top..that wasn't too bad either..took a little longer though.
Damn lazy ***..lol
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
Okay so everything is unbolted, trans mount, cat, but the drive shaft doesn't want to come out of where its bolted to the diff. (i removed the u bolt) So should i drop the transmission or should the driveshaft be able to come out before the tranny is dropped
Remove the four bolts holding the u-joint straps, then tap the driveshaft toward the transmission. It will slide into the transmission slightly, then drop it down and pull it out. Be prepared for fluid to come out of the tailshaft.
<--- heres what it looks like btw