My Honda is on its way out and my Trans Am has been sitting in the driveway for a year and a half with a seized engine. I figure, my best bet is to sell the Honda, take out a personal loan and use it to either rebuilt my LT1 or buy someone else's. I don't want to go nuts as my stock rear needs to hold up, at least for now, plus my Ram clutch is intended for bolt- on power, so I don't want to damage the clutch disc. I need that to last for the time being as well.
I was thinking of just having my engine rebuilt and upgrading it a bit. The problem is, since the engine will be out of the car, I want to go ape$h!t with it. I can really only afford a $4k or $5k loan, so that doesn't leave me much as I'm going to need someone to do the work. I don't have the tools, the knowledge or the help to do this by myself. Besides, I'll walk away with a warranty, assuming a reputable shop does the work. Here's my plan-

Basic rebuild + SpeedInc "Cadillac cam", upgraded springs, lifters, 1.6RR's, Pacesetter emissions- legal longtubes with high- flow cats, some minor head porting, and I think that'll cover me for now. I'm not looking to run 11's. 12's would be nice though, plus that shouldn't sap my gas mileage too badly, seeing as how this will be my only car. I'm not 100% on the cam though, as it's designed to run with stock manifolds on a more- or- less stock car, from what I understand. Recommendations are appreciated, but I don't want to completely kill my fuel economy. I don't really race. I'd just like the extra power to be there if I want to use it (I've already decided I'm not using N2O).

My other option is to find something someone already built, but that won't likely come with a warranty and if something breaks, I'm screwed. Again, recommendations are greatly appreciated.

What should I do here? How does that build sound? I know I was a little vague, but I'm not 100% dead set on brands I'll be using. I'm pretty sure I'll be using LS7 lifters as they're cheap and I've heard good things about them, but the rest is still up in the air. I don't want to spend $400 on springs and another $400 on RR's, so I'll have to see what my options are there. I know a tune is going to cost a pretty penny, plus the headers and cat are going to run a hefty fee. I have to really weigh my options.

 

Well do you have any idea on what is still salvageable out of the Engine?

Me personally I would build it with Forged Rods & Pistons, leave the Crank Stock, Balance it all, Mill the Heads to make them true, then I would look into a Cam and some 1.6 LT4 RR's. The LS7 Lifters are good ones.

I know you said you don't have the resources to do the required work yourself..so you need to budget that in. I've never had to have someone build & install my stuff so I don't know how much that would be for you.

 

My head gasket blew, flooded and seized the engine. It's been sitting for over a year. I would imagine it should be mostly still usable. My mechanic told me it was done for and I left it at that, so it's not like I tried cranking the hell out of it with coolant in the engine. I have no real mechanical experience or knowledge, so I just went off of what they said. I probably could have saved the motor had I just drained the oil and coolant, but no one told me that at the time and I didn't know, so now I'm up $h!t's creek. The waterpump and opti have less than 3,000 miles on them, so those are usable, heads should be fine, I'm just concerned about the internals.

 

since you need 1 running vehicle go with stock rebuild. save that extra money for the build you want and not an "emergency-get-your-car-running-almost-the-way-you-wanted-it". ever hear of in-debt-racing? its not a good place to be, seen a lot people with broken dreams that way.

 

Someone correct me if I am wrong but I thought the "Cadillac Cam" is more designed for bolt-on cars with stock manifolds? Since you will be running LT's and having some minor head work done I would probaly go with something else. Again don't take my word on it without getting an opinion from someone over at Speed Inc. because I may have heard wrong. Regardless that would make for a nice sleeper that is for sure.

 

Take out a loan for $8000 / 36 months or something to that effect and do a 350ci with good forged rods/pistons, AI heads and cam, and you've got yourself a reliable screamer

 

I think $4,500- $5K is more within my budget. I almost never drive it hard. I'm known for driving like an old lady, hence why I think a mild cam and some bolt ons would keep me happy. In my 5 years of ownership, I've never been pulled over in it. I consider my Trans Am to be my first real car and I hope to keep it for a very long time. I just need a daily driver with some *****. Eventually, I hope to get a worked C5 to beat on. I just need something reliable that's worth low 13's- high 12's.

 

I like your first plan with the cadillac cam... only forget the headers because the cam is meant for stock manifolds. Maybe a cat-back, but stock exhaust would be cooler. Pick up a used stall and get some good tires. Use leftover money for bolt-ons.

Instant sleeper. All that's missing is NOS, but I know you don't want it.

 

Realistically, I would tell you to take out as little as possible and just do a built up stock rebuild. Since you said you are like myself and not very knowledable on installation and whatnot, the labor time on the engine itself, removal, and installation will all add up fast.

Also, I'm assuming you are taking out a personal loan? Being a Finance major I'd keep the amount you are taking out of that as low as possible as interest rates for those are like 14-20%. It all adds up

Recap: Do a built up "stock" rebuild like Merv said - Forged Rods & Pistons, leave the Crank Stock, Balance it all and then SAVE up your leftover money for mods. The issue with doing this is that if you want a cam build up and header install later... Its going to be double the labor.. So its up to you man.. Call your builder up and get an approximation on the rebuild and then add up the price of wanting mods and ask how much it is for them to install those also

 

i have a stock crank with 89k miles, LE2 cam with like 4k and an LE2 ported intake manifold that ill let go. delphi 37# injectors are already in it to run with the cam

 

Thanks guys. I'm debating between the Cadillac cam and a CC305. If I stick with the Caddy cam, I'll just stick with my stock manifolds. I'll go for long tubes if I get the CC305. I want something that I can build off of in the future should i desire to, so I'm starting to lean away from the Cadillac cam. I need to talk to the engine builder and see what he recommends. He might even do a custom grind for me. The problem is that everything adds up so fast. Damn near $500 for headers, another $200 or so for a y- pipe, I need a new cat, so $100- $200 for that, I already have a cat- back and an aftermarket clutch, so that's done, I need a tune ($???), but I can't justify having the engine apart and simply putting it back to stock. It was way too slow stock. Maybe I will go with the Cadillac cam to save money on exhaust components. If it doesn't pull hard enough for me, I can put 4.10's in the back down the line.

What about Lloyd Elliot? The heads come upgraded and ready to bolt on, which saves me a headache. Most of the guys around here want $600 just to port the heads, not including the additional charge for springs, retainers, custom grind cam, etc.

The only reason I'm against N2O is because if you get caught around here with the bottle open, they automatically impound your car. Plus, I don't really race. I like having power to merge onto the parkway or get on it a little if it's late and the roads are empty. I want to be able to hit the gas and go without having to open the bottle, be sure there's enough gas left, pray my components and tune are all in working order, etc. Maybe I'll add a bottle when I decide to upgrade my clutch and my rear, but for now, I want to stay N/A.

 

You can get coated longtubes and an ORY for $480 as a package I believe. To be honest, if you want to go with off-the-shelf cams, I'd recommend a CC503. A lot of guys have had good results with those.

Where do you live? Do you absolutely NEED cats? Dynotune is generally ~$500.

Give LE or AI an e-mail on your goals and they will help you out as far as ported heads, cam for your needs, etc.

I'm assuming since it is a DD that you will want to stick with a smaller cam like a CC503 if you are wanting to do the CC305.

Just talk with your builder regarding prices, recommendations for the Forged Rods & Pistons, leave the Crank Stock, and Balancing it. When he gives you an idea on how much that is to do all of that and installation, then you will know how much $$$ you are working with with your goals

 

I say cc503 le1s and a good rebuild on the bottom end.

 

I definitely need cats. NY is pretty strict with emissions testing. I have to be careful not to run too big a cam either. I definitely don't want to run a cam that requires a really, really good tune in order to pass emissions. If anything falls out of whack, that's another couple of hundred just to pass emissions.

 

I think you are insane. Buy another puddle jumper daily driver in decent shape for that 4-5k and play with your f body toy when you have spare money laying around that you can go ahead and flush down the toilet-er-f body.

 

226/230 .600/.600 108LSA cam i went 11.53 with a 6spd and 4.30s behind it but with a lot of weight out

 

My house has been foreclosed on and we have to leave very, very soon. I'll only have room for one car where I'll be living next and I'm sure as hell not going to get rid of my Trans Am for another Honda. I'm going to get my Trans Am running and sell the Honda, which will recover some of my money. I don't see what's so insane about that.

 

Really? Your house is foreclosed, and you are taking out a loan to modify your car?

I guess you wouldn't see my point then, until you are sitting on the side of the road with a blown up 10 bolt or scattered transmission, no way to pay for it and no way to drive to work to make any money either. But, what would I know, I'm just a broke *** with a blown up LT1 F body as my only means of transportation...

 

If your house has been foreclosed on, I would strongly recommend waiting to build the car. Your personal loan interest rate will be out the ***. They already are with people with awesome credit.

How much can you sell your Honda for?

The fiscal side of me says keep the DD and save up. The gear head side says go for it! Sadly, both come at a price. Just figure out your priorities and what is most important to you.

Like 05HD said, what if something else blows up? Always need a safety fund for rainy days.

 

It's not literally my house. It's my grandmother's, but I was raised and spent the majority of my life here. I should have said, "Our house" instead of, "My house". My mistake. I'm 23 and have phenomenal credit thanks to my mom putting me in a joint account with her a few years back. I'm own my own now and have never missed any payments. My credit won't be affected by the loss of the house, as it isn't legally tied to me in any way. I can afford to pay $150 a month on a loan . I appreciate your concern, I really do, but I have no intentions of beating on this car. Like I said, I've owned it since I'm 18 and have never been pulled over. I drive for a living and still haven't been pulled over and I've been driving since I'm 17. I baby my cars. Maybe when I can afford a new clutch and a beefier rear, then maybe I'll beat it up a little. Until then, I sincerely doubt I'll push it hard enough to damage anything.

I'm not 100% sure. It's a Del Sol VTEC, which are somewhat desirable amongst the import crowd. It's not that the car is a POS, because it isn't by any means. My mechanic thought it was worse than it really is. I've spoken to him since and it's just that the clutch linkage is iffy and it the car needs a new IAC valve. There's a minor oil leak, but that's a $30 gasket which I can fix myself. I bought the car for $2,300 and it starts and runs very well aside from what I mentioned. It has never once left me stranded. It needs some new bushings too, but that's no big deal. I'd actually like to hold on to both cars, but I think selling it to recover some money would be the best idea.