LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

oil pump question

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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 10:12 PM
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Im putting in a gm white spring in a stock oil pump and I had a few questions:

1. What is the torque of the 4 bolts on the oil pump top plate?
2. Is there a gasket between the oil pump and block surface?
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 10:14 PM
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Also does anyone know where to get a new GM oil pan????
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by iceman15
Im putting in a gm white spring in a stock oil pump and I had a few questions:

1. What is the torque of the 4 bolts on the oil pump top plate? 80 inch pounds.
2. Is there a gasket between the oil pump and block surface? Nope.


Originally Posted by iceman15
Also does anyone know where to get a new GM oil pan????
GM part number 12557557. Runs for $76.18 from www.gmpartsdirect.com
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 08:49 AM
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Do not use a gasket between the block oil pump.
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 09:32 AM
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Yea..if you used one and if that thing ever blows out then there goes the motor..
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 09:37 AM
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If you have it apart on an engine stand, do yourself a favor and lap the oil pump mounting surface with automotive wet or dry sand paper on a good flat surface. A drill press table, a piece of thick flat glass, or a piece of steel that has been surfaced flat. I use a piece of steel plate I had parallel ground for another project, but have found many other uses like this. Use parts washing solvent with the sand paper. Once the machine marks are gone, pull the rear main cap, pull the dowel pins, then sand the machine marks off of the main cap’s oil pump mounting surface. You wouldn’t believe the amount of oil that leaks from between the pump and main cap. It sprays in all directions. That oil doesn’t make it into the bearings where it belongs. Hand lapping those two surface helps a lot. I have an old rear main cap I tapped for a flexible line connected to an oil pressure gauge. To check your oil pressure setting before installing the oil pan, just bolt the oil pump to your modified main cap, drop the pump pickup in the parts washer tank, spin it up with a ½” drill motor and there is your engine’s max oil pressure. You will also see what I’m talking about with the pump-to-main cap leakage. I tapped mine ¼” pipe thread with a ¼” to 1/8” adaptor, and the flexible hose for a hand held grease gun, with an oil pressure gauge on the other end.

As Lonnie said, do not use a gasket there.
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 09:38 AM
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Double post.. a little lag here in the sandbox..

Last edited by the_merv; Jan 29, 2010 at 12:28 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed Wright
If you have it apart on an engine stand, do yourself a favor and lap the oil pump mounting surface with automotive wet or dry sand paper on a good flat surface. A drill press table, a piece of thick flat glass, or a piece of steel that has been surfaced flat. I use a piece of steel plate I had parallel ground for another project, but have found many other uses like this. Use parts washing solvent with the sand paper. Once the machine marks are gone, pull the rear main cap, pull the dowel pins, then sand the machine marks off of the main cap’s oil pump mounting surface. You wouldn’t believe the amount of oil that leaks from between the pump and main cap. It sprays in all directions. That oil doesn’t make it into the bearings where it belongs. Hand lapping those two surface helps a lot. I have an old rear main cap I tapped for a flexible line connected to an oil pressure gauge. To check your oil pressure setting before installing the oil pan, just bolt the oil pump to your modified main cap, drop the pump pickup in the parts washer tank, spin it up with a ½” drill motor and there is your engine’s max oil pressure. You will also see what I’m talking about with the pump-to-main cap leakage. I tapped mine ¼” pipe thread with a ¼” to 1/8” adaptor, and the flexible hose for a hand held grease gun, with an oil pressure gauge on the other end.

As Lonnie said, do not use a gasket there.
Thats really interesting info! Thanks guys for the responses
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