If you have it apart on an engine stand, do yourself a favor and lap the oil pump mounting surface with automotive wet or dry sand paper on a good flat surface. A drill press table, a piece of thick flat glass, or a piece of steel that has been surfaced flat. I use a piece of steel plate I had parallel ground for another project, but have found many other uses like this. Use parts washing solvent with the sand paper. Once the machine marks are gone, pull the rear main cap, pull the dowel pins, then sand the machine marks off of the main cap’s oil pump mounting surface. You wouldn’t believe the amount of oil that leaks from between the pump and main cap. It sprays in all directions. That oil doesn’t make it into the bearings where it belongs. Hand lapping those two surface helps a lot. I have an old rear main cap I tapped for a flexible line connected to an oil pressure gauge. To check your oil pressure setting before installing the oil pan, just bolt the oil pump to your modified main cap, drop the pump pickup in the parts washer tank, spin it up with a ½” drill motor and there is your engine’s max oil pressure. You will also see what I’m talking about with the pump-to-main cap leakage. I tapped mine ¼” pipe thread with a ¼” to 1/8” adaptor, and the flexible hose for a hand held grease gun, with an oil pressure gauge on the other end.
As Lonnie said, do not use a gasket there.