Callies Crank questions
02-12-2010, 09:20 PM
#1
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Callies Crank questions So I remember researching awhile back and finding some thing about the oil passages on the callies cranks are routed different and where somehow better. Anyone know if this is true? Also anyone have experience with these cranks?
I am wanting to get quality piece but Im not going crazy with my build or anything. Im gonna stay N/A 355 with forged 6in rods and forged flat tops but I have some heavily ported heads and intake and plan on turning around 7k. The car is being built for autoX and road racing primarily but will also be a weekend cruiser.
I am wanting to get quality piece but Im not going crazy with my build or anything. Im gonna stay N/A 355 with forged 6in rods and forged flat tops but I have some heavily ported heads and intake and plan on turning around 7k. The car is being built for autoX and road racing primarily but will also be a weekend cruiser.
02-13-2010, 08:40 AM
#5
You would probably be fine just using your factory crank as long as you get the rotating assembly balanced. If you wanting an aftermarket crank your stock one is a 3.48 stroke, that with a 4.030 bore (4.00 is stock) will give you 355 CID. If you go with an aftermarket crank get 4340 forged material, don't get a cast one!
02-13-2010, 09:17 AM
#6
you will be happy with callies..ive had many of the products and when it comes to getting a 4340 crank thats who i go with ..you can drop them in and go almost all the time even though you should mic it and make sure its with in spec but almost all the time callies are..un like eagle or scat that alot of times need work..a nice thing about callies is down the road you can send it back to them and get it turned into a magnum or a magnum xl..which is different stages of lighting...the only cranks ive seen nicer that ive owned where bryant and winberg but them where billet deal and costly as hell..
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02-13-2010, 11:56 AM
#10
Is the class your running in limiting you to a certain cubic inch? If your spending that kinda cash on a crank, may as well do a stroker, in comparison to the cranks your mentioning, clearing the block isn't a whole lot and your buying rods and pistons any way.
02-13-2010, 02:56 PM
#11
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not running a class just building a street machine to run some HPDE events.
I'm really looking for a lightweight rotating assembly capable of relatively high RPM's. I don't really want a stroker cause I don't want to increase the rod angularity. I know this seems like overkill for what my plans are, but I want to essentially build a bulletproof bottom end but at the same time keep the rotating mass down.
really the crank is the last piece of the puzzle. I already made decisions on the rods pistons and running 4 bolt splayed mains, but I have not purchased anything yet.
It never crossed my mind to run a stroker for a road race engine, but im open to suggestions if you guys think I should. Keep in mind im not looking for max power. Its harder to keep a 700hp car underneath you exiting a turn than it is for a 450hp car.
I'm really looking for a lightweight rotating assembly capable of relatively high RPM's. I don't really want a stroker cause I don't want to increase the rod angularity. I know this seems like overkill for what my plans are, but I want to essentially build a bulletproof bottom end but at the same time keep the rotating mass down.
really the crank is the last piece of the puzzle. I already made decisions on the rods pistons and running 4 bolt splayed mains, but I have not purchased anything yet.
It never crossed my mind to run a stroker for a road race engine, but im open to suggestions if you guys think I should. Keep in mind im not looking for max power. Its harder to keep a 700hp car underneath you exiting a turn than it is for a 450hp car.
02-13-2010, 03:26 PM
#12
Ive i was doing that type of racing and looking to be in the upper rpms n such and trying to get up an off turns..i would be doing a 4.125 or bigger bore along with a 3.48 or smaller crank.. Also if you want a cheap light weight crank and have not gotten any thing yet you could get a used light weight nascar part..
02-13-2010, 03:29 PM
#13
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Ive i was doing that type of racing and looking to be in the upper rpms n such and trying to get up an off turns..i would be doing a 4.125 or bigger bore along with a 3.48 or smaller crank.. Also if you want a cheap light weight crank and have not gotten any thing yet you could get a used light weight nascar part..
02-13-2010, 04:47 PM
#15
no they dont..most wil be in the 3.25-3.335 stroke range though ..but they will be around 39-42#..you will need to run a spacer to use them in a 2.45 main block though seeing they will be for a 3.25..clevete makes them..you will also need to run a rear main seal adapter..these cranks use a smaller rod journal..honda 1.88 or a irl 1.85..ebay has the cranks and you will pay from 450-600 for it..oh yeah most use a big block snout to
