LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

oil pan windage tray

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Old 02-14-2010, 02:46 PM
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Default oil pan windage tray

Do you gota use it. Summit sent me the wrong main studs.
Old 02-14-2010, 02:56 PM
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Should, it will rob a little HP and the oil wont sit down in the pick up area right.
Old 02-14-2010, 02:57 PM
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how would it rob hp
Old 02-14-2010, 03:23 PM
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Don't leave home without it.

It's a windage tray. It prevents windage (oil being whipped up by the crank).
Old 02-14-2010, 03:29 PM
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Just wait and get the right studs. Chances are it's going to need line honed anyway, you shouldn't be putting it together without checking the housing bores first.
Old 02-14-2010, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by fergymoto
Just wait and get the right studs. Chances are it's going to need line honed anyway, you shouldn't be putting it together without checking the housing bores first.
Motor has already been to the machine shop. I sent it with the stocks bolts. I bought arp mian bolts but summit sent me the wrong 1's. They sent 234-5501. I need 134-5502
Old 02-14-2010, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TravisMcGill2000
Do you gota use it. Summit sent me the wrong main studs.
you need to use the same bolts it was align honed with.


stock ones are fine
Old 02-14-2010, 04:29 PM
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Do you have bolts or studs? In your original post you say studs. Bolts are supposedly a little more forgiving than studs are far as distorting the main housing bore. You need to check it either way, whether you have bolts or studs.
Old 02-14-2010, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by mdacton
you need to use the same bolts it was align honed with.


stock ones are fine
You think he will be good with stock bolts? I know most people say to use arp rod bolts for high rpms but what about main studs?
Old 02-14-2010, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by kierstyn
You think he will be good with stock bolts? I know most people say to use arp rod bolts for high rpms but what about main studs?
High rev's you usually want 4 bolt splayed mains and that work would be done at the machine shop.

To the OP what has changed since you had it at the machine shop that you need to change them?
Old 02-14-2010, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by kierstyn
You think he will be good with stock bolts? I know most people say to use arp rod bolts for high rpms but what about main studs?
mine has lasted me quite a while with stock 2 bolts.....ten years now. same bearing been it it now almost 4. Sure its not the best but I wouldnt waste my money in it til it bust
Old 02-14-2010, 08:01 PM
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Yes, a windage tray is a must! i went through the same thing when i rebuilt my engine. and Why would you not run ARP everything??? i replaced main cap studs, connecting rods bolts, head bolts and even cam and oil pan bolts with ARP products... if your in there. why not do it once and not have to worry about it ? peace of mind is priceless...
Old 02-14-2010, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by SoxXpupPeT
Yes, a windage tray is a must! i went through the same thing when i rebuilt my engine. and Why would you not run ARP everything??? i replaced main cap studs, connecting rods bolts, head bolts and even cam and oil pan bolts with ARP products... if your in there. why not do it once and not have to worry about it ? peace of mind is priceless...
its a waste of money, overkill
Old 02-14-2010, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by SoxXpupPeT
Yes, a windage tray is a must! i went through the same thing when i rebuilt my engine. and Why would you not run ARP everything??? i replaced main cap studs, connecting rods bolts, head bolts and even cam and oil pan bolts with ARP products... if your in there. why not do it once and not have to worry about it ? peace of mind is priceless...
This is not really the point though. The machine work is done so changing bolts may cause the caps to be off and wipe out bearings and crank. I agree with you I love arp stuff and never any worries but I made that mistake by having the machine work done with stock bolt but I am just building a little street motor so I don't really care. Love the ARP head bolt though.
Old 02-14-2010, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mdacton
its a waste of money, overkill
peace of mind is worth the extra $100 or so in parts...

Originally Posted by jaycenk
This is not really the point though. The machine work is done so changing bolts may cause the caps to be off and wipe out bearings and crank. I agree with you I love arp stuff and never any worries but I made that mistake by having the machine work done with stock bolt but I am just building a little street motor so I don't really care. Love the ARP head bolt though.
we all hav eour own opinions. mine is to build it once and not have to wory about it. but i understand where your coming from if the machine works already been done. the stock bolts are good. just have to worry about the conecting rods bolts for a little street engine. next time OP buy what you need first
Old 02-14-2010, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by SoxXpupPeT
peace of mind is worth the extra $100 or so in parts...



we all hav eour own opinions. mine is to build it once and not have to wory about it. but i understand where your coming from if the machine works already been done. the stock bolts are good. just have to worry about the conecting rods bolts for a little street engine. next time OP buy what you need first
LOL yea this is the first build I haven't just gone to an engine builder and said hey I want to do this, with this and he builds it and hands it to me ready to go. Tuffer than expected just like you said because I have never gone through an LT1 and a little different than a gen 1 but should be back together soon.
Old 02-15-2010, 11:47 AM
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you can re-use the 3 long studs for windage tray or buy the Miloden set.

you do need the windage tray.

If you did a stroker....1/8" washers under tray on studs and oil pump bolt will raise it enough to clear rod bolts.
Attached Thumbnails oil pan windage tray-g383-windage-tray.jpg  




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