I would have lured someone in had you given it more time!
In all honesty I heard 7-8K is the limit but I wouldn't know.

 

I haven't done a conversion. I was thinking the same thing but I didn't know.

 

FAST is a stand-alone.
LS1 conversion is a stand-alone.

Pick one.

 

At those RPMs your first order of business should be creating a oiling system that will keep up with the demands. I think a high volume pump is definitely ideal along with a good high capacity oil pan with a scraper. Reason being is at those RPMs heat is pretty extreme, which requires a higher volume of oil to not only lubricate but cool the internals. Theres lots of small details in the oiling system to keep one alive at those RPMs. The next challenge would be a valvetrain light enough to be stable. Thats where your power is gonna be, combined with sufficient airflow and a far better engine management system than the LT1 platform has to offer. For what your doing i think those rpms arent needed, especially for only 450 hp to the wheels. You have to ask yourself if you have a high RPM budget, because im here to tell you its not gonna be cheap if its done right.

 

like capricemanager stated for those kind of rpms(9k-10k) your going to want a high pressure pump, not high volume.
the OP does not need to spin it to the moon to reach his goals tho, so a HV pump would be ideal for his set up.

 

Personally, I look at hard facts and statistics, and more of the fastest cars run AFRs then any other head, period.

 

Hell if I could afford AFR's competition stuff I sure as hell would!

I am very interested to see what your car with those heads, a good custom SR cam, properly thought out valvetrain, and ported intake, etc. etc., and some seat time will do at the strip

 

I fully agree with the need to have a solid oil control system, but not just for high rpm. GM did a very good job from the factory with the oiling system, especially on the later model small blocks (like the LT1) with priority main oiling. By design the newer priority main oiling will see higher pressures due to the less restrictive system, the problem you may see (I doubt though), would be starving the cam due to the crank receiving the oil first and spinning so rapidly that it reduces the flow up to the cam. You could use a high pressure pump to prevent this, or you could use the NASCAR style oil squirters over the cam journals. You should also use a higher capacity and baffled oil pan, and you could also smooth out the areas in the lifter valley that lead to the drain back holes. You should also consider an oil cooler, and shaft mount (or stud girdles if you convert to perimeter style valve covers) rockers to prevent valve float and deflection. I would also focus on making your valve train light and beefing up the valve springs.

 

Dedicated drag cars with no expense spared, and I still don't see where the head made the difference. The ones I have seen have so much budget blindly thrown at them it wouldn't matter what head it was.

 

Not true.

An LS1 PCM in an LT1 car retains:
- speedometer
- tachometer
- all other gauges as well
- original air conditioning functionality
- reverse lockout function
- 4L60E or 4L80E transmission

A FAST system will provide a stand alone wiring harness. A 24x (LS1 PCM) conversion will provide a complete plug and play wiring harness solution.

 

be careful with that decision. I have read that more stroke, while adding torque, shortens your overall powerband. Thats fine for drag racing, but if you are going around corners trying to stretch gears out, then it might not be an optimal setup. You are better off sacrificing some torque to be able to pull all the way through a corner. IMO you want the widest powerband you can possibly come up with for a road racer. Look at the ZR1 vette for example. That isnt to say it cant be done with a 383, just something to keep in mind.

 

i suppose 1_craz28 told you this didnt he

 

if you guys think that my goals are conservative, what do you think I should realistically reach for.

My goals originated from wanting more rwhp than a stock c6 z06 approx 460hp. Do you think more power than a stock zr1 approx 520hp is reachable with a N/A 355 or 383 LT1?

 

it all depends on how deep your pockets are. how much hp can you afford?
but what we're mainly saying is that you dont need to spin it to 9k if your shooting for 450rwhp

 

Ok so your saying for low RPM you need a High Volume pump and for high RPM you need a standard volume pump with the high pressure spring..... Not seeing your logic here..

 

7500-8000 rpm.....one question, WHY?

Why would you build a high maintenance engine like that? When you can make 600 hp under 7000 rpm.

383, Ai or LE head and cam deal with the right cam should make 450 to the wheels with the stock ecm, opti and stay under 7000 rpm.

I see where you already have the heads/intake. Put the RIGHT cam in the car to achieve the goals under 7000 rpm.

Bret Bauer, LE or Ai can get that done for you. You can make 450 to the wheels with a hyd roller, you dont need a solid with a six speed.

 

I may be able to shed some light on this topic.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eiT0lLlGcvw

I built a 385 last year that sees the kind of rpm you are talking about. With a stock ported intake the car made peak power at 7400 and pulled hard to 8000-8200 or so. Becuase of the wrong converter in the car I found last year that shifting the car at 8200 made it faster becuase it was more in the powerband when it went into third gear. However the converter and intake issues have been solved for this year as well as some tuning issues.

Anyway heres the scoop on doing this correctly and safely and still street driving your car:

First off the LT1 computers gotta go. I wired in a FAST XFI with my stock computer using a Horsepower Connection Wiring Harness out of Washington State. This allowed me to keep my gauges and transmission control and all my electronics in the car yet still use the XFI for the motor.
Second that Optispark is not going to like that kind of rpm. I was noticing top end misfires untill I switched over to a magnetic crank trigger.

Also a very lightweight and properly designed valvetrain is essential to street driving and seeing this type of rpm. The light weight valvetrain keeps the need for a very stiff spring to a minimum. I'm twisting this type of rpm with 225# at the seat and I am experiencing no valve float.

Heres a list of the motor:
Callies Magnum Crank 3.75"
6" Oliver Billet Rods
SRP Pro Series 4.04" Domed Pistons 13.9:1 CR
(A lightweight rotating assembly also helps alot)
Howards Billet Steel 4 bolt main caps

AI 215cc cnc Trick Flow Heads
Hollow Valves with a good PSI Spring and Xcyledyne TI-17 retainers and locks

The cam is also an AI Solid Roller
25x/26x @.050 and .7xx lift -----The cam sounds sick and drives better than you would expect with the big converter and gears. It idles around 1300.
Heres an Idle Video w/ Open Exhaust

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36KiV7FCQCw

I topped off the valve train with a Jesel Shaft Mount Rocker system.
These are the basics of getting there.
Hope this helps.

Mike V

 

my machinist told me you want at least 10psi for every 1k rpm. and capricemanager said HV will lead to problems at those rpms, I'm not sure how exactly but I'll take his word for it.

 

There are several good shops around here. PM me and I will give you some suggestions.

 

I'm running a HV pump and everything looks good....it really depends on the clearances that are used in the motor (rods, mains, ptw). In my case mines built a bit on the loose side so I see no more than 70 psi at 8000rpm. IMO theres no need for these 90-100psi numbers....look at some of the circle track race motors that run no more than 40 psi at 9000. A ton of oil pressure is not needed and just simply robs power.