Starting from scratch *PICS*
Starting from scratch *PICS* i just bought a 97 ws6 hardtop formula and wanted some advice. before i start with engine mods i want to beef up all my drivetrain and suspension components so i dont have any issues in the future. this is not my daily driver and im ultimately shooting for 10s. what suspension setup/upgrades as well as drivetrain upgrades should be make to help me reach my goal? thanks alot fellas and here are a few pics of the car. only mods are borla catback and pro 5.0/short stick.
ignore the sunroof, its being removed as we speak
ignore the sunroof, its being removed as we speak
that's a clean looking car, and a badass truck in the background.
Anywho... lca's with relocation brackets, sfc's, phb, good shocks/springs, and a torque arm would be a good place to start for suspension upgrades
Anywho... lca's with relocation brackets, sfc's, phb, good shocks/springs, and a torque arm would be a good place to start for suspension upgrades
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sounds like its going to be geared for the strip and not curves, get a shorter adj tunnel brace mtd tq arm and adj LCA's + relo brackets, denny's n2o ready DS & beefier u-joints, and a nice clutch(or kit), maybe some QA1's and softer springs?.. rear drag sway bar, remove the front sb? that should do ya
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like they said. sfc. lca phb. strange 60. w/410. id do a mcloed twin disc. maybe have the t56 gone through blockers pads syncros. then bolt ons and weight reduction. absolutle slicks and skinnies. then a healthy shot and you might run 10s on stock motor.
I would only tear into the tranny if/when theres problems with it, t56's can take allot of abuse. also the twin disc is allot of rotating weight, a good single disc should be all you need.
How do you plan on reaching 10 second ET's. n2o? built motor? stock shortblock with heads and cam??
There are man routes you can take, typically a 10 car is not a DD. So if i were you i would consider a 383 and a 150 shot. That way your not building an all out race motor that you will not want to drive on the street.
what kind of budget do you have??
There are man routes you can take, typically a 10 car is not a DD. So if i were you i would consider a 383 and a 150 shot. That way your not building an all out race motor that you will not want to drive on the street.
what kind of budget do you have??
ive seen stock motor cars no bolt ons run 11.2 with radials a 200 shot and 3200 lb race wieght put qa1s and springs on top of that your cutting 10.9 for sure. then when it blows up build the motor good to go. also PLEASE REMOVE THE FRONT LICENSE PLATE its illegal here in missouri to i refuse to put one on my car when i drive 2 blocks to kansas and its not illegal there. **** the police
talk to sam strano about suspension...word is he has the primo stuff if that's what your looking for. If you want full suspension that would include:
Shocks
Struts
Panhard Rod
Panhard relocation bar
tunnel brace
subframe connectors
torque arm
sway bars
strut tower brace
Lower control arms
Lower control arm relocation brackets
A arms up front
and I'd also do the K member too in order for weight reduction.
Shocks
Struts
Panhard Rod
Panhard relocation bar
tunnel brace
subframe connectors
torque arm
sway bars
strut tower brace
Lower control arms
Lower control arm relocation brackets
A arms up front
and I'd also do the K member too in order for weight reduction.
I think if it were me and I were to do it all over again I would start with subframe connectors and some adjustable LCAs and panhard bar. I would then move on to bolt ons (headers, CAI, 1.6 rockers), short throw shifter, tune (CAGS eliminator or have it tuned out), and an aftermarket rear end with 4.10 and some sticky tires. After that I would spray that thing to the moon and upgraded the components in the order they fail 
ok I would also invest in a torque arm relocation corssmember to get the torque arm off of your tranny if you plan on doing some hard launches which you're going to have to for a 10 sec timeslip. If you plan on driving it on the weekends for things other than racing than I would advise against the shorter tunnel mounted torque arm. Not based on personal experience but I have read a lot of posts about the tunnel mounts transferring a lot of road noise through the cabin just my .02