Underdrive pulleys
03-06-2010, 10:58 AM
#2
I too have recently been googling this very same question along with the search option here on this site. I have found that the SLP version is made and labeled for them by Powerbond. These seem to be the preferred units since they have a lip to prevent the belt from coming off the pulley. Aside from this information, I too have been wondering how much power they actually free up AND if the extra power comes in at a useable rpm range. The extra power is pointless if its above 5000rpm's right!!! On a street car that is........
03-06-2010, 11:34 AM
#4
Best left to cars with BELT driven waterpumps or that see SUSTAINED high rpms like road racing that tends to overheat the power steering, and then an underdrive DAMPER is probably a better bet.
On a bone stock car just an underdrive crank pulley is likely to cause idle charging issues, if the car is cammed and has a higher idle that is unlikely though.
Put it this way though, pretty much everyone agrees that pulling the serpentine belt entirely is worth about .1 at the track, if an underdrive pulley underdrives 34% then it stands to reason you should see .034 at the track.
Like I said, leave it to OTHER applications that have belt driven waterpumps. That is probably where cali_bear2003 is coming from with his missguided input. I would probably agree with him on OTHER engines.
On a bone stock car just an underdrive crank pulley is likely to cause idle charging issues, if the car is cammed and has a higher idle that is unlikely though.
Put it this way though, pretty much everyone agrees that pulling the serpentine belt entirely is worth about .1 at the track, if an underdrive pulley underdrives 34% then it stands to reason you should see .034 at the track.
Like I said, leave it to OTHER applications that have belt driven waterpumps. That is probably where cali_bear2003 is coming from with his missguided input. I would probably agree with him on OTHER engines.
03-06-2010, 03:49 PM
#5
Best left to cars with BELT driven waterpumps or that see SUSTAINED high rpms like road racing that tends to overheat the power steering, and then an underdrive DAMPER is probably a better bet.
On a bone stock car just an underdrive crank pulley is likely to cause idle charging issues, if the car is cammed and has a higher idle that is unlikely though.
Put it this way though, pretty much everyone agrees that pulling the serpentine belt entirely is worth about .1 at the track, if an underdrive pulley underdrives 34% then it stands to reason you should see .034 at the track.
Like I said, leave it to OTHER applications that have belt driven waterpumps. That is probably where cali_bear2003 is coming from with his missguided input. I would probably agree with him on OTHER engines.
On a bone stock car just an underdrive crank pulley is likely to cause idle charging issues, if the car is cammed and has a higher idle that is unlikely though.
Put it this way though, pretty much everyone agrees that pulling the serpentine belt entirely is worth about .1 at the track, if an underdrive pulley underdrives 34% then it stands to reason you should see .034 at the track.
Like I said, leave it to OTHER applications that have belt driven waterpumps. That is probably where cali_bear2003 is coming from with his missguided input. I would probably agree with him on OTHER engines.
03-06-2010, 05:00 PM
#6
My misguided input...!!! Thanks for the disrespect, but then again....this is coming from someone who has posted here on this site almost 6000 times. Maybe you need to go out more, the guy simply asked, which brands are good and are they worth the dollar. Maybe you can reply and at the very least help answer his question. Misguided, I too stated that I am also searching for the same information, but am also coming up short with a firm conclusion........are they worth the time and $$$......
Do you have an LT1 with it's CAM DRIVEN waterpump?
I already stated that on OTHER APPLICATIONS I would agree with you.
The LT1 has a lot less belt driven load than other engines so it stands to gain less from reducing that load.
Correct me if I am wrong, you don't have an LT1, and your research is based on NON-LT1 engines, correct? If so you your input was misguided. Bout as applicable as if a blue oval guy came here and told us what to use.
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03-07-2010, 02:17 PM
#10
My misguided input...!!! Thanks for the disrespect, but then again....this is coming from someone who has posted here on this site almost 6000 times. Maybe you need to go out more, the guy simply asked, which brands are good and are they worth the dollar. Maybe you can reply and at the very least help answer his question. Misguided, I too stated that I am also searching for the same information, but am also coming up short with a firm conclusion........are they worth the time and $$$......
@ attack on post count. Like that has ANYTHING to do with anyone's credibility.
03-07-2010, 03:02 PM
#12
Yesterday he was here after 8pm so he has been on since I posted challenging him as to whether he had any LT1 experience or whether his research was LT1 based.
He has not replied.
Look at his garage and post history and it is pretty clear he owns a gen 1 and an LS, NOT an LT1. Making my assessment of his post correct.
As usual though the feeble minded have to try and attack an individual rather than technical merit of a post.
He has not replied.
Look at his garage and post history and it is pretty clear he owns a gen 1 and an LS, NOT an LT1. Making my assessment of his post correct.
As usual though the feeble minded have to try and attack an individual rather than technical merit of a post.
03-08-2010, 10:59 AM
#13
Yesterday he was here after 8pm so he has been on since I posted challenging him as to whether he had any LT1 experience or whether his research was LT1 based.
He has not replied.
Look at his garage and post history and it is pretty clear he owns a gen 1 and an LS, NOT an LT1. Making my assessment of his post correct.
As usual though the feeble minded have to try and attack an individual rather than technical merit of a post.
He has not replied.
Look at his garage and post history and it is pretty clear he owns a gen 1 and an LS, NOT an LT1. Making my assessment of his post correct.
As usual though the feeble minded have to try and attack an individual rather than technical merit of a post.
03-08-2010, 11:10 AM
#14
Lots of companies make 10% reduction replacement ballancers. Addiing the pully thing... well I dont know you are just adding another part to the engine. as light as it may be, it is part of the rotating mass. a 10% reduction ballancer pully will take mass off wich is the way you should do it. They cost more but make more sense to me.
03-08-2010, 06:52 PM
#17
No just smart enough to do a little fact checking. Took like 1 minute.
You are too feeble minded to carry on a TECHNICAL DEBATE so you resort to attacking my character.
Try just once to carry on a technical debate.
LOTS of folks convince themselves things they spent money on are good without any PROOF.
03-08-2010, 11:49 PM
#19
How bout you try it yourself WITHOUT being a snotty ******* to guys just coming in here and stating what they know and have found.
Ex.
Tell ya what..if this forum isn't technical enough for you how bout you start one that is?
My intentions here aren't startin crap, but I'm callin you out cause you have this idea you can talk crap to anyone, then come back and say that they attacked you. I'll call ya out every time on it, I've got no problem doing that.
Drop the snotty attitude. You and your LT1 Taxi Cab aren't that special.
Challenge for ya..
Go make a 11 sec pass with 4 people in it, luggage, and the clock runnin..
03-09-2010, 07:57 PM
#20
Calling input missguided when he even admits it was based on his gen 1 and LS experience as opposed to LT1 is NOT something that should be found offensive. Hell I said I would have agreed with him if we were talking about something other than the LT1.
One of the guys I work with is building a BOSS 302 for his OLD Mustang, if I told him to run a cam with the same specs as mine would that be good advise? No it would be MISSGUIDED because it is for the wrong application. Same thing here.
One of the guys I work with is building a BOSS 302 for his OLD Mustang, if I told him to run a cam with the same specs as mine would that be good advise? No it would be MISSGUIDED because it is for the wrong application. Same thing here.