Turbo'd 383 build thread
#41
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I'm not sure. I've been tossing the idea around of cutting the middle out and stopping at the outside edges of the fog light holes. I think I have seen one picture of someone doing that and it looked decent. I also thought about getting a Formula bumper and doing the same because I think it works a little better with that bumper.
My intercooler sits pretty low anyways, which might look goofy because you will see it below the bumper. And it covers up some of the air dam for the radiator. It's one of the cons of doing the intercooler tubing the way I wanted. So hopefully I don't have any overheating issues. I'll most likely wait to see if I have really high IAT's before I cut the bumper.
My intercooler sits pretty low anyways, which might look goofy because you will see it below the bumper. And it covers up some of the air dam for the radiator. It's one of the cons of doing the intercooler tubing the way I wanted. So hopefully I don't have any overheating issues. I'll most likely wait to see if I have really high IAT's before I cut the bumper.
#45
Well i found the 383 lt1 on craigslist. I was getting ready to build one and had a parts list put together and just got lucky and found this one. I paid less for the whole motor than what i would have paid in parts. The guy had it built and never installed into his car. He was getting a divorce and had to sell it. so i got pretty lucky. i guess. My car is still a project car. My cousin and i haven made the turbo set up yet but the week we was starting to build the turbo headers, my ls1 car broke a lifter. So the money i had saved up to finish the lt1 car had to go the DD ls1 car. Since my car is project, am wondering what kind of power it may make and sounds like ur car will be done a little sooner than mine. Just let us know the dyno #.
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9:1 compression. I have 14-15psi stuck in my head for how much boost I will run. I'll have to see how high I can go once it's in the tuning process. I won't be pushing as much psi as I can though. I want it safe and reliable.
Thanks. All that is -10AN. It took me a while to find the best spot. It's nice and hidden to not clutter up the engine bay. Where is this spot on LSX cars your talking about? I've seen plenty of turbo ls1's but I wasn't aware of any specific spot for catch cans. BTW, I saw the pictures of your car and it is INSANELY clean.
Thanks. All that is -10AN. It took me a while to find the best spot. It's nice and hidden to not clutter up the engine bay. Where is this spot on LSX cars your talking about? I've seen plenty of turbo ls1's but I wasn't aware of any specific spot for catch cans. BTW, I saw the pictures of your car and it is INSANELY clean.
#48
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I'm not sure. I've been tossing the idea around of cutting the middle out and stopping at the outside edges of the fog light holes. I think I have seen one picture of someone doing that and it looked decent. I also thought about getting a Formula bumper and doing the same because I think it works a little better with that bumper.
My intercooler sits pretty low anyways, which might look goofy because you will see it below the bumper. And it covers up some of the air dam for the radiator. It's one of the cons of doing the intercooler tubing the way I wanted. So hopefully I don't have any overheating issues. I'll most likely wait to see if I have really high IAT's before I cut the bumper.
My intercooler sits pretty low anyways, which might look goofy because you will see it below the bumper. And it covers up some of the air dam for the radiator. It's one of the cons of doing the intercooler tubing the way I wanted. So hopefully I don't have any overheating issues. I'll most likely wait to see if I have really high IAT's before I cut the bumper.
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Ha! Thanks for the bump.
I'm trying to keep the thread alive but it's been slow. Waiting on stuff in the mail before I can progress.
I just put in 2 new window motors today. Now I can actually roll up my window without it stopping half way!
Installed the electrical part of my line lock yesterday. Since I don't have fog lights anymore, I used the power source to the fog lights to power the line lock. So my master switch is the fog light switch and I put the momentary push button right next to it. I thought it was pretty cool.
Put in the 155mph gauge cluster I bought a long time ago.
Loaded up the mail order tune from Virginia Speed for when I break in the motor.
I'm selling the a-pillar triple gauge pod I just bought and my used transmission cooler if anyone wants it.
I wasn't really happy about the quality of the gauge pod so I'm putting my gauges in the center air vents.
I'm trying to keep the thread alive but it's been slow. Waiting on stuff in the mail before I can progress.
I just put in 2 new window motors today. Now I can actually roll up my window without it stopping half way!
Installed the electrical part of my line lock yesterday. Since I don't have fog lights anymore, I used the power source to the fog lights to power the line lock. So my master switch is the fog light switch and I put the momentary push button right next to it. I thought it was pretty cool.
Put in the 155mph gauge cluster I bought a long time ago.
Loaded up the mail order tune from Virginia Speed for when I break in the motor.
I'm selling the a-pillar triple gauge pod I just bought and my used transmission cooler if anyone wants it.
I wasn't really happy about the quality of the gauge pod so I'm putting my gauges in the center air vents.
#52
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I need some help guys. I found some oil leaks and I'm completely down on life. I can't deal with more problems. All I have done as far as oil is fill up the motor. I haven't even primed the motor yet. So here are the leaks:
Right below #8 spark plug on that ledge
Above the oil filter
Under #1 spark plug on the ledge.
I'm 99% sure oil is seeping by the head gaskets. There is no oil above the head gaskets at all. There was another spot where I can clearly see an oil drop right at the head gasket and no where else. I used thread sealant on all the head studs. I'm using a copper gasket. Is this just the nature of copper head gaskets??
Right below #8 spark plug on that ledge
Above the oil filter
Under #1 spark plug on the ledge.
I'm 99% sure oil is seeping by the head gaskets. There is no oil above the head gaskets at all. There was another spot where I can clearly see an oil drop right at the head gasket and no where else. I used thread sealant on all the head studs. I'm using a copper gasket. Is this just the nature of copper head gaskets??
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There is no way that you should leak oil from the head gaskets themselves. Is it possible that it could be mistaken for coolant? Or perhaps has it leaked down from the valve covers?
#54
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I'm almost positive oil is getting by the head gaskets. It's completely dry everywhere else. I haven't even put coolant in yet.
My head gasket's are SCE ICS Titan Copper part number S11066.
I haven't even built oil pressure yet and it's leaking.
My head gasket's are SCE ICS Titan Copper part number S11066.
I haven't even built oil pressure yet and it's leaking.
#55
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I have seen head studs leak coolant and have heard copper gaskets can leak too. But if there is no coolant in the motor that's a moot point.
#57
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There is no way oil is coming out your head gaskets if you haven't primed the motor. Did any run off onto the motor when you were filling it or are your valve covers seals shot? My new motor is still leaking a bit out the pan seal and I had a composite valve cover seal get pinched and dump a ton of oil on the brand new headers. If you can I'd wipe everything clean and then prime the motor and see that your getting oil on the top end. I've yet to meet a Chevy that never leaks at least a bit.
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It's definitely not oil from the valve covers. Every single seal and gasket is new on this motor.
It makes sense though cause the leak is below the head stud wherever the leak is present. Head studs are under the valve cover where oil is laying so I guess oil is going down the stud and leaking past the head gasket. That's my guess for it anyways.
I'm about to prime the motor with the starter. I'll clean everything off and see if it comes back.
I don't know if this is an intelligent suggestion or "screw it" attitude, but it's pretty much my only option at this point.
It makes sense though cause the leak is below the head stud wherever the leak is present. Head studs are under the valve cover where oil is laying so I guess oil is going down the stud and leaking past the head gasket. That's my guess for it anyways.
I'm about to prime the motor with the starter. I'll clean everything off and see if it comes back.
I don't know if this is an intelligent suggestion or "screw it" attitude, but it's pretty much my only option at this point.
#60
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It's definitely not oil from the valve covers. Every single seal and gasket is new on this motor.
It makes sense though cause the leak is below the head stud wherever the leak is present. Head studs are under the valve cover where oil is laying so I guess oil is going down the stud and leaking past the head gasket. That's my guess for it anyways.
I'm about to prime the motor with the starter. I'll clean everything off and see if it comes back.
I don't know if this is an intelligent suggestion or "screw it" attitude, but it's pretty much my only option at this point.
It makes sense though cause the leak is below the head stud wherever the leak is present. Head studs are under the valve cover where oil is laying so I guess oil is going down the stud and leaking past the head gasket. That's my guess for it anyways.
I'm about to prime the motor with the starter. I'll clean everything off and see if it comes back.
I don't know if this is an intelligent suggestion or "screw it" attitude, but it's pretty much my only option at this point.