Turbo'd 383 build thread
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
Jameslt1TA,
My exhaust consists of the downpipe ending at the rear k-member, then an "S-pipe" to my loudmouth catback. All v-band clamped and stainless steel besides the mild steel turbo hotparts. So basically the only muffler is the loudmouth resonator. I can take some pictures if you like.
I think it would be best to avoid going from a 4in downpipe to 3in. Exhaust flow is crucial on turbo cars. My 3in down pipe goes right under the steering linkage on the driver's side. You should be able to fit a 4inch pipe with a turbo k-member.
My exhaust consists of the downpipe ending at the rear k-member, then an "S-pipe" to my loudmouth catback. All v-band clamped and stainless steel besides the mild steel turbo hotparts. So basically the only muffler is the loudmouth resonator. I can take some pictures if you like.
I think it would be best to avoid going from a 4in downpipe to 3in. Exhaust flow is crucial on turbo cars. My 3in down pipe goes right under the steering linkage on the driver's side. You should be able to fit a 4inch pipe with a turbo k-member.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
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From: Fairfax, Virginia
Speaking of exhaust. Here is a quick sound clip at idle from the back.
And here are two other videos I made tonight. Both 2nd to 3rd gear runs I think.
It makes about 10psi in 2nd gear then gets up to 15psi in 3rd. Does this sound normal? I think it's cause it's running just off the wastegate spring.
And here are two other videos I made tonight. Both 2nd to 3rd gear runs I think.
It makes about 10psi in 2nd gear then gets up to 15psi in 3rd. Does this sound normal? I think it's cause it's running just off the wastegate spring.
I still think this is my favorite sounding turbo LT1. I just love the cam you have in that car. Just the right amount of chop! Is the car shifting about 500 rpm's to low? It seems like it should be around 6100ish (JMO).
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Wyoming
I have a tubular k-member, but it would kill my ground clearance running 4in. pipe. There is a place that sells flat pipe and I think that is what i will do. I want to run it all the way out back and exit on the passenger side. My down pipe comes out on the passenger side.
Oh and yours is definitely fast. Don't you just love not hooking up until 4th gear? Only judge of how quick mine is that I raced a 07 busa and lost by 4 cars from a roll and 2 cars from a stop. The full story is on camaroz28.com track kill section.
I really need to fine a place in Colorado, Wyoming, or Nebraska(I'm in southeast Wyoming) that can dyno tune with fast c-com, as I don't want to mess with learning to tune a turbo motor.
Oh and yours is definitely fast. Don't you just love not hooking up until 4th gear? Only judge of how quick mine is that I raced a 07 busa and lost by 4 cars from a roll and 2 cars from a stop. The full story is on camaroz28.com track kill section.
I really need to fine a place in Colorado, Wyoming, or Nebraska(I'm in southeast Wyoming) that can dyno tune with fast c-com, as I don't want to mess with learning to tune a turbo motor.
Good catch.
Mitchell, a couple quick questions:
1. what rpm did it make peak power?
2. Who ported the heads
3. Any specifics on the cam that you care to share? If not, no biggie.
4. Is you stall flashing to ~4500rpm? That could be hurting you a little.
5. What is the timing set at in the last cell (100kpa)
Mitchell, a couple quick questions:
1. what rpm did it make peak power?
2. Who ported the heads
3. Any specifics on the cam that you care to share? If not, no biggie.
4. Is you stall flashing to ~4500rpm? That could be hurting you a little.
5. What is the timing set at in the last cell (100kpa)
Last edited by RealQuick; Aug 23, 2010 at 09:12 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, Virginia
Good catch.
Mitchell, a couple quick questions:
1. what rpm did it make peak power?
2. Who ported the heads
3. Any specifics on the cam that you care to share? If not, no biggie.
4. Is you stall flashing to ~4500rpm? That could be hurting you a little.
5. What is the timing set at in the last cell (100kpa)
Mitchell, a couple quick questions:
1. what rpm did it make peak power?
2. Who ported the heads
3. Any specifics on the cam that you care to share? If not, no biggie.
4. Is you stall flashing to ~4500rpm? That could be hurting you a little.
5. What is the timing set at in the last cell (100kpa)
I ported the heads. Lost the flow chart too. I remember it flowing about average numbers, but I didn't care. I purposely left room to buy nice heads in the future.
My cam isn't a big secret. Basically a 236/236 114lsa and 0.572lift.
About the stall flashing. I think I am spinning out, but these Nitto 555R's don't make any noise. As if I could hear tires spinning over my wastegate anyways but still. If you watch the videos carefully (1st video easier to see), it shifts to 2nd gear then revs up to 5K then drops back down to 4,500 (believe it spun then caught traction), then it increases RPM again to ~5,700 and shifts to 3rd. This would explain why it builds 10psi in 2nd because I was spinning with not enough load. I'm going to have to toy around with brake boosting.
Timing I don't know. Not my expertise. I don't recall, but Ed said it was tuned at either 21deg's or 29deg's WOT. I can load up my Tuner Cat file if you like.
Last edited by Ralls; Aug 23, 2010 at 07:35 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo The dyno graph doesn't show RPM unfortunately. But you can see from the graph it flat lines most likely around 4,500 through 5,700. The power doesn't nose over so I could spin it a little higher till it drops down if I really wanted.
I ported the heads. Lost the flow chart too. I remember it flowing about average numbers, but I didn't care. I purposely left room to buy nice heads in the future.
My cam isn't a big secret. Basically a 236/236 114lsa and 0.572lift.
About the stall flashing. I think I am spinning out, but these Nitto 555R's don't make any noise. As if I could hear tires spinning over my wastegate anyways but still. If you watch the videos carefully (1st video easier to see), it shifts to 2nd gear then revs up to 5K then drops back down to 4,500 (believe it spun then caught traction), then it increases RPM again to ~5,700 and shifts to 3rd. This would explain why it builds 10psi in 2nd because I was spinning with not enough load. I'm going to have to toy around with brake boosting.
Timing I don't know. Not my expertise. I don't recall, but Ed said it was tuned at either 21deg's or 29deg's WOT. I can load up my Tuner Cat file if you like.
I ported the heads. Lost the flow chart too. I remember it flowing about average numbers, but I didn't care. I purposely left room to buy nice heads in the future.
My cam isn't a big secret. Basically a 236/236 114lsa and 0.572lift.
About the stall flashing. I think I am spinning out, but these Nitto 555R's don't make any noise. As if I could hear tires spinning over my wastegate anyways but still. If you watch the videos carefully (1st video easier to see), it shifts to 2nd gear then revs up to 5K then drops back down to 4,500 (believe it spun then caught traction), then it increases RPM again to ~5,700 and shifts to 3rd. This would explain why it builds 10psi in 2nd because I was spinning with not enough load. I'm going to have to toy around with brake boosting.
Timing I don't know. Not my expertise. I don't recall, but Ed said it was tuned at either 21deg's or 29deg's WOT. I can load up my Tuner Cat file if you like.
Do you have a timing retard box?
About the stall flashing. I think I am spinning out, but these Nitto 555R's don't make any noise. As if I could hear tires spinning over my wastegate anyways but still. If you watch the videos carefully (1st video easier to see), it shifts to 2nd gear then revs up to 5K then drops back down to 4,500 (believe it spun then caught traction), then it increases RPM again to ~5,700 and shifts to 3rd. This would explain why it builds 10psi in 2nd because I was spinning with not enough load. I'm going to have to toy around with brake boosting.
This may be an opportunity in the future quest to increase the output. If you are not running a timing retard, whatever timing is in the last cell (possibly 21 degrees) is what you see at every boost level. Thats a big drop in timing for 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,....psi.
Current setup
1psi = 21 degrees
2psi = 21 degrees
3psi = 21 degrees
4psi = 21 degrees
etc.
With the MSD-6BTM you can go
1psi = 35 degrees
2psi = 34 degrees
3psi = 33 degrees
4psi = 32 degrees
........
14psi = 22 degrees
15psi = 21 degrees
This is just an example, but you get the idea. It will definitely help the spool.
Current setup
1psi = 21 degrees
2psi = 21 degrees
3psi = 21 degrees
4psi = 21 degrees
etc.
With the MSD-6BTM you can go
1psi = 35 degrees
2psi = 34 degrees
3psi = 33 degrees
4psi = 32 degrees
........
14psi = 22 degrees
15psi = 21 degrees
This is just an example, but you get the idea. It will definitely help the spool.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, Virginia
This may be an opportunity in the future quest to increase the output. If you are not running a timing retard, whatever timing is in the last cell (possibly 21 degrees) is what you see at every boost level. Thats a big drop in timing for 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,....psi.
Current setup
1psi = 21 degrees
2psi = 21 degrees
3psi = 21 degrees
4psi = 21 degrees
etc.
With the MSD-6BTM you can go
1psi = 35 degrees
2psi = 34 degrees
3psi = 33 degrees
4psi = 32 degrees
........
14psi = 22 degrees
15psi = 21 degrees
This is just an example, but you get the idea. It will definitely help the spool.
Current setup
1psi = 21 degrees
2psi = 21 degrees
3psi = 21 degrees
4psi = 21 degrees
etc.
With the MSD-6BTM you can go
1psi = 35 degrees
2psi = 34 degrees
3psi = 33 degrees
4psi = 32 degrees
........
14psi = 22 degrees
15psi = 21 degrees
This is just an example, but you get the idea. It will definitely help the spool.
It's such a pain to go through having VA speed tune my car again because it's a far distance. Although it wouldn't be bad if it was done in one day and I drove it right back home. Just a personal problem
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, Virginia
I really need to put a catalytic converter on the exhaust. I can't stand reaking of exhaust smell after driving my car. But I would have to convert my wastegate to dumping in the exhaust otherwise it would be pointless.
This vented catch can is getting annoying too. It smokes pretty good on cold start until the rings heat up. Still smokes a little when hot. I know it's normal but it just looks bad when you see smoke coming out of the front bumper at a stop light.
I think I'm too use to driving my puny Acura RSX for the past 3 years. Not conditioned to a car that is obnoxious, hash shifting, rough ride, and smells. I hope I'm not getting seconds thoughts after getting this far.
This vented catch can is getting annoying too. It smokes pretty good on cold start until the rings heat up. Still smokes a little when hot. I know it's normal but it just looks bad when you see smoke coming out of the front bumper at a stop light.
I think I'm too use to driving my puny Acura RSX for the past 3 years. Not conditioned to a car that is obnoxious, hash shifting, rough ride, and smells. I hope I'm not getting seconds thoughts after getting this far.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, Virginia
Yes. When?, I don't know. My co-worker goes quite often to MIR so I told him to let me know next time he goes.
I'm still working out the kinks. I have an oil leak somewhere that's dripping down the backside of the transmission bellhousing.
Need to tweek the suspension to get rid of a vibration under light load at the beginning of overdrive.
Slightly over heating. Well technically not over heatings since it's less than stock temperatures, but it creeps up with city driving even when the fans run. Most likey need another fan setup or make a shroud.
I'm still working out the kinks. I have an oil leak somewhere that's dripping down the backside of the transmission bellhousing.
Need to tweek the suspension to get rid of a vibration under light load at the beginning of overdrive.
Slightly over heating. Well technically not over heatings since it's less than stock temperatures, but it creeps up with city driving even when the fans run. Most likey need another fan setup or make a shroud.
You should look at it as happy that it is running. My car hasn't run in over 3 years and I'm not anything near getting it running. You should just have a few more tweaks and you'll be good to go.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, Virginia
Ehh not so well. I ran it at the track last week and only managed a 11.1 @ 128 with 1.9 60ft. But I'm having, I believe, ring issues. Lots of blow-by and one of the cylinders isn't making compression. I'm going to drop the motor and see what's going on. I don't feel like touching the car until I have a car lift so that's what I'm working on now. I can't stand working 2 feet off the ground anymore!