Okay, I have been looking at a few different bolt-ons to add to my car, but will have to do them a little along. It already had the list below done when I got it last week, so I figure I might as well round out the list. lol
I'm thinking about the following in no particular order:

1. mild camshaft (maybe HOTcam due to cost....or the XFI466 looks perfect....want to stay along those lines.)
2. 58mm Throttle Body (car came with a spare intake that is already ported for 58mm and runners ported)
3. Electric Water Pump (whatever brand I find used on the board here)
4. Aftermarket TQ Arm that does NOT mount to tailhousing
5. Mail Order Tune (not sure who...thinking MadZ28)




Car is 97 SS M6 and already has:
4.10 gears in stock rear with Aluminum G2 girdle/cover
Aluminum Driveshaft
BMR tubular LCA's and LCA relocation brackets
KYB AGX adjustable front struts and KYB AGX adjustable rear shocks
LG Motorsports Lowering springs all around
Long Tube Ceramic Coated Headers (brand undetermined...appear to be 1 3/4" primary x 3" collectors w/no bolt-on reducer provisions...only slip fit.)
Off Road Y 3" band clamped to header collectors (that hangs way to low on LH side...wish it were squished like the factory LS cars Y pipe)
No Cats or Rear O2s
OLD Exhaust - SLP Loudmouth Exhaust with Quad tips (Removed...Way too loud...and I like loud)
New Exhaust - 3" mandrel bent intermediate/over axle pipe into single 3" in/out Flowmaster with ONE 3" tailpipe (was free)
160* T-stat and Hypertech PPIII tune for that and gear swap (what else tuned IDK...didn't get programmer with car)
De-screened MAF
TPIS Throttle Body Airfoil
Hurst Shifter and G2 Shift ****/Short Stick
Auto Zone Duralast Lifetime Warranty Clutch Set
Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
K & N CAI & Trick Flow Elbow
MSD Opti, Wires, and Coil
Kenne Bell Subframe Connectors - kinda K shaped and tie into a crossmember
Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (not sure what it's set on yet)
Underdrive Pulley Set (Aluminum Crank & Steel Alternator)
Still has stock TQ arm and Panhard Bar
Still has stock Sway Bars
!EGR
!AIR
Optima Red Top 25/75 Series Battery
Rear O2 Simulators (But still getting a "no activity Bank 1 Sensor 2" code??? Guess the Sim is bad???)
Also have a Moroso CAI, and a stock SS Ram Air Box with K&N filter
Firestone Firehawk 285/40-17 rear tires
Kumho 275/40-17 front tires
17" x 9.5" Silver SS wheels (ZR1 style)
LT4 Knock Module

Already have and Soon to be installed:
1.6 (CAT brand, but look like Comp Magnum) roller tipped rockers & LT4 Springs
Ported Intake (looks nice, but I hear could cost me power with stock heads??)

I also know I need to go ahead and plan for a stronger rearend and some drag radials.

 

IMO cam is always a good idea I will not comment on your selections but I would do some more reading and poking around on here before you pull the trigger on one of those.

Throttle body is unnecessary for a cam only stock headed car, spend the money elsewhere.

Stock MAF is just fine

Electric water pump will free up a couple ponies

Whenever you get the torque arm off of the tranny I am all for it

 

1. I think you'd be happy with a CC503 or something a bit bigger
2. There are guys running 10's/11's with STOCK TB. It really doesn't make much extra power without the heads and intake being ported and port matched to the TB. Use the money on the miscellaneous small parts you'll have to buy for the install
3. Electric Water Pump = More HP, more HP = more fun
4. I personally have a UMI TA. Just make sure you set the pinion angle right. Getting the TA off the tranny is never a bad idea
5. Stock MAF is fine. People tend to run into more problems than it is worth when they switch throttle bodies

 

4 and 1 are the only options I would go with and the best results you will see.

 

i say do all bolts on first b4 doing any cam

 

Yeah I definatly agree with doing more research on the cam. The torque arm is a good
idea and you are for sure going to want to get a good clutch

 

The only option that is best thought out really is electric pump.

Cam selection needs work

Maf is fine

TQ arm is not really needed unless your hauling ***

 

Look at the comp 503, it is a good street cam, makes good power. Also, you will need to upgrade your valvesprings with a bigger cam. The LT4 springs wold hold a 503, or any cam along those lines. Do the waterpump when you do the cam swap, and put a double roller chain in it. After the cam, swap to a 52mm TB if you really want to, but a 58 is overkill, and you will have to port match the intake to the TB. Stock MAF is fine, but remember, suspension upgrades are always good! I am still running a stock torque arm, but I don't go to the track much.

 

There are stock throttle body Lt1's running nines N/A.

 

I thought so. I just didn't want to sat that and be flamed for being wrong.

Full suspension is never a bad thing. What are your realistic goals for the car?

 

Really? who?


not doubting it, just interested in who it is and their setup

 

with a cam, u WILL break that clutch. im suprised u havent already

 

adj tq arm is a great buy with some good tires and all bolt ons then possibly a cam i personally would go nitrous best bang for buck! dont bother with throttle body it wont add anything to a stock bolt-on stock cube motor

 

I ran that same clutch with bolt ons and a 150 shot. Never broke it, but I never launched the car on spray either.

 

water pump then the adj t/a..you can make all the power in theworld but its not fun if you cant get it to the ground..

 

EVERYONE seems to be saying I should pick a different camshaft...most are recommending the Comp 503. I don't have any doubt it's a great grind and gives good results, but I'm really wanting to stick with a grind that has an idle not much rougher than stock. That is how the XFI466 is described, and it has fairly high lift vs duration, along with the 113* LSA to help smooth it out. The Lunati 60121 looks good too. I've listened to some sound clips/vids of the Comp 503 on here and it sounds like a little more cam than I am looking for. Maybe I should just use the LT4 (production/NON-HOT cam) and some 1.6's or even 1.7's???
I am no stranger to big cams. Have ran everything from 230* @ .050" street grinds to the 278*/282* @ .050", .714"/.680", 110* LSA Solid roller in my BBC 61 Bel Air. I just want to keep my LT1 idling fairly smooth, but still pick up some good mid-range. Would like to keep shift points at or under 6,500 rpm.

ANY thoughts or recommendations are welcome and appreciated. If you think I'm looking in the wrong direction or misinformed...just say so. Won't hurt my feelings. If I wasn't open to learning, I wouldn't have started this post. Thanks everyone for all the replies so far.

 

Just out of curiosity have you ran any cams on a fuel injected engine? From what i have gathered info wise, a 230 @ .50 on a carbed engine is way rougher idle and harder to drive than a FI engine. I am NOT telling you to get a 230 duration cam, I am just using it as an example since you do have experience with similar cams. I am no cam expert obviously haha.

The CC503 from what I understand has very little lope and is cake to drive, loads of people have them. I don't know much about the 60121, I have the 60122 in my car personally, which is to large for what you want so I can't really put much input on that.

 

No.....No experience with cam'd EFI cars at all.

 

For what you are wanting...the XFI 466 you are looking should fit your needs pretty close. I would also consider the Lunati cam if you want a slight bit more midrange but idle slightly less smooth. Both those cams will probably make close to the same HP.

In a nutshell:

Basically XFI466 will be better in low rpms. Lunati 60121 will be better in mid rpms. Both will probably feel the same up top.

As far as the 503 cam somebody mentioned, I would pick the Lunati over it.

 

I am having issues finding hard facts to quote so maybe someone can step in and back me up, or correct me but basically...

You can put a larger cam in a FI (and roller engines if im not mistaken has a lot to do with it) engine compared to a carb engine and the fuel injection will make the idle quality a ton better than if it was in a carbed engine. It is to bad you do not live near someone who knows their cam specs and is close to you so you could get a feel for it lol .