block checked out good im going this route tight budget.
eagle cast crank
eagle i beam rodss cam clerancer
speed pro 11.8 hyper pistons
4 bolt conversion arp studs
comp 292 xfi cam promag 1.6 rockers
trickflow 21 deg
i just got a walbro 255 pump to install while im waiting for the block

 

I don't know why you'd spend the money on a 4 bolt conversion but use a cast rotating assembly.

use that money on upgrading the rotating assembly IMO

 

i had 2 bad main caps and hes charging me 220 for new caps and labor i only have 2500 to do shortblock, including lifters and chain everything else i got.

 

just do a 355. unless the crank is bad. save alot $ that way.

 

There are guys making a boatload more power than you with reusing the stock crank.

Post up some pics when its done

 

A lot of us have broken Eagle cast cranks. I'd steer clear.

 

how are they breaking im staying under 6500rpm no power aders

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ht=eagle+crank

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ht=eagle+crank

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ht=eagle+crank

 

I've had good luck with my eagle 383 cast kit *knock on wood* but the percentage of failures is daunting

 

im starting to get scared would it be that much better to go with a forged scat kit for 1700. it comes with eihther 12.1 compression or 10.5 will 12.1 be to much for street driving

 

honestly best bet is to piece together your own kit and get it balanced, SCAT and Eagle's balancing seems to be one of the main issues from what I've heard. probably put together a nice bottom end for the money too

 

Give Clayton Racing Engines an e-mail. My buddy got a nice Callies/Compstar stuff off of them for a good deal!

 

i didt put money down on parts yet thats the way i was hoping to go im gonna talk to my machinist tommorow and see what he thinks i called scat and they said i could get 141825 kit inbalanced for 1550. it includes forged crank rods and forged 12.1 srp pistons. would i have bad detnation.

 

are all 1 peice sbc cranks the same as a lt1

 

I have a 12:1+ Static Compression Ratio (SCR), it's all about Dynamic Compression Ratio (DCR) which will be decided by many other factors like cam selection. when going with a high SCR like that you'll want a cam that will help bleed off cylinder pressure, preferably a custom one tailored for such an application. my custom cam is from Lloyd Elliot (www.elliottsportworks.com) and cost $300 or so shipped. another important thing is making sure you get a good dyno tune, running a mail order tune is not what I would recommend as you can run the fine line between missing out on power/gas mileage/etc. with a conservative tune or detonation issues with a more radical one. another thing that I personally did that other have had luck without is running a colder plug like a NGK TR6, I live in hot *** Florida and I'd rather miss out on a little power than to have any issues on days were the heat gets ridiculous.

 

yes a 1 piece crank from a later model SBC (85+ I believe) is the same as a crank for an LT1. pistons and rods are interchangeable as well.

 

Doesn't mean a thing.

A friend of mine broke his at 1200rpm going through a parking lot. Right by the front main. SNAP.

Either stay 355 and use the stock crank OR go with a GOOD forged crank (Ohio, Callies, Compstar, etc.).

 

I broke mine on the street when I nailed the gas from a 30mph roll. It accelerated for a second then POP. I was only turning it 6600, and it was probably at 5500 when it broke.

 

See pics here https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...bably-not.html

 

I would not hesitate to use a SCAT cast crank again. I have had a 3.75 since 02 at the 500rw to 600rw level.
It was just pulled it out to do a rebuild and it looks fine. Keep the RPMs down and you should be good.