383 time
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On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 133
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383 time block checked out good im going this route tight budget.
eagle cast crank
eagle i beam rodss cam clerancer
speed pro 11.8 hyper pistons
4 bolt conversion arp studs
comp 292 xfi cam promag 1.6 rockers
trickflow 21 deg
i just got a walbro 255 pump to install while im waiting for the block
eagle cast crank
eagle i beam rodss cam clerancer
speed pro 11.8 hyper pistons
4 bolt conversion arp studs
comp 292 xfi cam promag 1.6 rockers
trickflow 21 deg
i just got a walbro 255 pump to install while im waiting for the block
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Verdad Gallardo honestly best bet is to piece together your own kit and get it balanced, SCAT and Eagle's balancing seems to be one of the main issues from what I've heard. probably put together a nice bottom end for the money too
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 133
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i didt put money down on parts yet thats the way i was hoping to go im gonna talk to my machinist tommorow and see what he thinks i called scat and they said i could get 141825 kit inbalanced for 1550. it includes forged crank rods and forged 12.1 srp pistons. would i have bad detnation.
I have a 12:1+ Static Compression Ratio (SCR), it's all about Dynamic Compression Ratio (DCR) which will be decided by many other factors like cam selection. when going with a high SCR like that you'll want a cam that will help bleed off cylinder pressure, preferably a custom one tailored for such an application. my custom cam is from Lloyd Elliot (www.elliottsportworks.com) and cost $300 or so shipped. another important thing is making sure you get a good dyno tune, running a mail order tune is not what I would recommend as you can run the fine line between missing out on power/gas mileage/etc. with a conservative tune or detonation issues with a more radical one. another thing that I personally did that other have had luck without is running a colder plug like a NGK TR6, I live in hot *** Florida and I'd rather miss out on a little power than to have any issues on days were the heat gets ridiculous.
Doesn't mean a thing.
A friend of mine broke his at 1200rpm going through a parking lot. Right by the front main. SNAP.
Either stay 355 and use the stock crank OR go with a GOOD forged crank (Ohio, Callies, Compstar, etc.).
A friend of mine broke his at 1200rpm going through a parking lot. Right by the front main. SNAP.
Either stay 355 and use the stock crank OR go with a GOOD forged crank (Ohio, Callies, Compstar, etc.).
I broke mine on the street when I nailed the gas from a 30mph roll. It accelerated for a second then POP. I was only turning it 6600, and it was probably at 5500 when it broke.
I would not hesitate to use a SCAT cast crank again. I have had a 3.75 since 02 at the 500rw to 600rw level.
It was just pulled it out to do a rebuild and it looks fine. Keep the RPMs down and you should be good.
It was just pulled it out to do a rebuild and it looks fine. Keep the RPMs down and you should be good.