396 lt1
04-08-2010, 08:58 AM
#21
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Like most has said, a 396 is going to be pricey. Not to mention all the supporting mods that will be needed to support the power (trans, rearend, fuel system, etc.)
Expect to spend about $3k-$3500 just on the shortblock. To get the most out of that short block, you will need just as much money (if not more) in the topend also. If u buy everything new, it can well exceed 4k for the shortblock. Good luck.
Expect to spend about $3k-$3500 just on the shortblock. To get the most out of that short block, you will need just as much money (if not more) in the topend also. If u buy everything new, it can well exceed 4k for the shortblock. Good luck.
04-08-2010, 09:13 AM
#22
Not to mention the bore size, which is why most ppl dont go that big on an lt1 block. You want thick walls if you plan on spraying it. You can get just as much out of a 383, so theres no need to go that big unless you really want that. A well built 383 with supporting heads/cam/exhaust will produce anywhere from 400-500rwhp NA.
04-08-2010, 10:33 AM
#23
Not to mention the bore size, which is why most ppl dont go that big on an lt1 block. You want thick walls if you plan on spraying it. You can get just as much out of a 383, so theres no need to go that big unless you really want that. A well built 383 with supporting heads/cam/exhaust will produce anywhere from 400-500rwhp NA.
04-09-2010, 07:43 AM
#25
People push strokers for "torque on the street" tell you what. if they did them right and they RARELY do, the lowend of a properly built/spec'd stroker should be completely unusable on the street.
Many 350/355s don't make torque because they are bad setups, not a lack of stroke.
If you go the Golen route you will get several chances to fail at getting it right.
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=240110
You could always buy this guys SECOND warranty motor, he has wised up enough that he wont put it back in.
Long as Chad is cheap or free on the warranty work most of his customers are happy. If they were smart they would realize they should have never needed warranty work.
This is besides his stuff usually being down on power.
Many 350/355s don't make torque because they are bad setups, not a lack of stroke.
If you go the Golen route you will get several chances to fail at getting it right.
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=240110
You could always buy this guys SECOND warranty motor, he has wised up enough that he wont put it back in.
Long as Chad is cheap or free on the warranty work most of his customers are happy. If they were smart they would realize they should have never needed warranty work.
This is besides his stuff usually being down on power.
04-09-2010, 01:59 PM
#26
I was going to do a 396, and had everything well researched and planned. I caught a hell of a break on a different setup, so I changed my plans.
You CAN save money and do this on a decent budget.
The 396 machining work is the same as a 383, but with a little bit more internal block clearancing for the rods. However, this situation can be improved, depending on what rods you choose.
You would go with a 3.875" stroke crank no matter what, but you can choose piston/rod combinations to go with either a 5.7" rod or a 6" rod. The 5.7" rod is a good choice for nitrous or FI, because you'll get more piston "meat" for the same CR. If you're running N/A, a 6" rod is a good choice, less sideload on the assembly, and less clearancing.
Check out your options for local machine shops. Visit them, check out their equipment, ask questions. Is it old and outdated? Is it newer? Any CNC equipment, or all manual? How often do they have routine maintenance performed on their machinery? Is the shop clean and neat? Have they built many stroker motors, especially 396's? (Doesn't matter if they're SBC or LT1).
As far as heads, cam, and valvetrain go, you won't spend any more than you would for a 383. As far as budget goes, Lloyd Elliot can hook you up with a potent head/cam combination that should net you some good power. AI has some REALLY nice trickflow 215 heads that are CNC ported, they're pretty pricey though.
As far as the rest of everything (cooling system, ignition, fuel, drivetrain), it won't be much different (if any) than a 383 build.
If you do decide that the 396 is your plan, I have a good bare block and an Eagle forged crank for 396 (3.875") that I'm getting rid of because of my setup change, that I'd let go for a good price. Not trying to hijack your thread, just letting you know that I can offer you some savings if you decide to go that route.
Definitely USE the parts classifieds on this site, LTXTech, CamaroZ28.com, etc. That's also an AWESOME way to save a lot of money.
Another good resource to check out is JasonShort, a moderator on this forum and LTXTech. I've bought almost my entire setup from him, and he's VERY knowledgable. He's built and ran several 396's.
You CAN save money and do this on a decent budget.
The 396 machining work is the same as a 383, but with a little bit more internal block clearancing for the rods. However, this situation can be improved, depending on what rods you choose.
You would go with a 3.875" stroke crank no matter what, but you can choose piston/rod combinations to go with either a 5.7" rod or a 6" rod. The 5.7" rod is a good choice for nitrous or FI, because you'll get more piston "meat" for the same CR. If you're running N/A, a 6" rod is a good choice, less sideload on the assembly, and less clearancing.
Check out your options for local machine shops. Visit them, check out their equipment, ask questions. Is it old and outdated? Is it newer? Any CNC equipment, or all manual? How often do they have routine maintenance performed on their machinery? Is the shop clean and neat? Have they built many stroker motors, especially 396's? (Doesn't matter if they're SBC or LT1).
As far as heads, cam, and valvetrain go, you won't spend any more than you would for a 383. As far as budget goes, Lloyd Elliot can hook you up with a potent head/cam combination that should net you some good power. AI has some REALLY nice trickflow 215 heads that are CNC ported, they're pretty pricey though.
As far as the rest of everything (cooling system, ignition, fuel, drivetrain), it won't be much different (if any) than a 383 build.
If you do decide that the 396 is your plan, I have a good bare block and an Eagle forged crank for 396 (3.875") that I'm getting rid of because of my setup change, that I'd let go for a good price. Not trying to hijack your thread, just letting you know that I can offer you some savings if you decide to go that route.
Definitely USE the parts classifieds on this site, LTXTech, CamaroZ28.com, etc. That's also an AWESOME way to save a lot of money.
Another good resource to check out is JasonShort, a moderator on this forum and LTXTech. I've bought almost my entire setup from him, and he's VERY knowledgable. He's built and ran several 396's.
