white ghost

iTrader: (1)

Alright, I posted a week or so ago about using LS1 heads on an LT1 and that won't work. So here is my next thought.

What list of parts do I need for a 396 stroker build? please list parts and prices.

jasonisdn

iTrader: (1)

ok you need to do a search and start looking for yourself. i take it you are young because you want to be spoon fed the infomation. would you like us all to chip in build it for you and install it also?? you need to show some effort before asking people to do your leg work.

Tricked-Out-Toy

iTrader: (4)

Here ya go, you need a crank, rods, piston and alot of machine work

white ghost

iTrader: (1)

Well not quite the response I was wanting. My first response should be a smart *** one, but I'm not really the type of person for that. I have done quite a bit of research on here. I'm not asking to be spoon fed anything, only asking for opinions. Different strokes for different folks. I'm trying to weigh the the cost, pros and cons of a stroker build and by getting an idea of what other folks want/have it gives me a little better idea on where to set my goals.

I want a 396, but if at the end of the day it is the best choice then I will gladly entertain other ideas. However the only way for me to know what to expect from a 396 vs. whatever else, is to ask.

Oh and have you ever searched for "396 LT1"? there is no specific post that lists what people's opinions or feelings good or bad is......just food for thought.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

The real question is your budget.

If you want a 396, you better be prepared to spend big bucks on heads and valvetrain to make it work.

For most people a 383 is the best route.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

talk to a local builder, that should give you a good idea on the cost...

ElkySS

iTrader: (6)

from what iv seen, your going about modding your car the wrong way. what are your goals for the car? et? rwhp?
whats its main use? purely drag strip use only? weekend cruiser? daily driver? autocross?

the motor should be built around what you want the car to do most of the fastest lt1s on this site are running much smaller motors than a 396. the main thing i like about it is its extra low end torque. it really helps when daily driving it.

answer these questions and go from there.

white ghost

iTrader: (1)

Well my overall goals are mid to low 11's all motor and 120+ traps. It will mostly be a weekend warrior/ street cruiser. I'm running an A4 so I really would like the extra low end for casual driving. Maybe adding inches isn't the best route for me, but years ago I rode in and drove a '97 396 LT4 stroker that absolutely impressed me. So of course that was reason for looking toward a 396. I really don't want a motor thats going to take spinning all the way up to 7k+ rpms to get a great potential.

TXTA

iTrader: (3)

If you are looking for just 11s and 120+ trap speeds in an A4 Fbody, you definitely don't need a 396. You could easily get there with just bolt ons. Do a good size stall convertor, gears, good sticky tires, some suspension mods and boltons and you should obtain your goals. Remember to, when you build that big cube 396 for a good chunk of change, hwo is the rest of your car gonna work with all that additional power.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Low 11s at 120mph in a bolt-on car? Hahahah, good one.

TXTA

iTrader: (3)

In a full heads/cam bolt on car with spray and an a4???

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

You'll have to understand my skepticism, because you said absolutely NOTHING about "full heads/cam bolt on car with spray and an a4???" in your first post.

TXTA

iTrader: (3)

That is true...I'm just saying he can get to his goals a HELL of a lot cheaper with other measures than just straight going to a 396.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

It's do-able with suspension, gears, converter, lots of nitrous and A LOT of weight reduction. We're talking coilovers, full tubular front end, fiberglass hood, lexan/speedglass and numerous outings with a cut-off wheel. A cam will help.

jasonisdn

iTrader: (1)

is this the only site you use for info?
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&s...=&oq=&gs_rfai=

i am not trying to be a dick but you need to understand what your asking. we know nothing of what you wanted to do, how much money you have to spend and if it must be a daily driver. you do not need a 396 to do what you want. a factory shortblock with heads/ cam can do it. if the bottom end is solid. good luck and dont cheap out on parts.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

Here ya go! this will be the fastest way to get you what you want motor wise
http://www.golenengineservice.com/sp...l/396_520.html

stumprrp

iTrader: (2)

i have that motor, actually its Chads old personal car. i will tell you the car screws and sounds very nasty. no track for me but he said it went 11.5 at around 123-124, with a single 3 inch exhaust, full weight.

383 Z

i saved money by buying my rotating assembly separately. forged rods and pistons but i bought a cast crank, because i wont be making enough power on this build to need one.

I also re-used a lot of my accessories but paid the price later when i started having to replace ****, and i wished i would have done it while the motor was out of the car.

My best advice i can give you is to plan your exact build before you start anything, and realize your going to spend more money than you plan....and your going to run into problems. Period.

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

no matter how long you search your not going to find too much on 396 LT1's. Most people dont build them that big, not too big of a need. A high rpm 383 with big heads and converted intake seem to be the ticket.

register on camaroz28.com, there's a bizillion threads there going back 8-10yrs, if your going to find info on 396's it will likely be there.

Otherwise keep up on this site, dont ask questions because you stil have not figured out whats retarded and whats not. Just research. Goodluck

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Parts and machining costs to do a 396 are no different than a 383. Ported heads from someone reputable will work just fine with on a 396. A small base circle cam may need to be used depending on the rod used. Block fill is not needed if the machinist knows what they are doing while clearancing and the correct rod is used (id Compstar makes a nice rod that'll work).

If you are on the east coast I have a great builder who knows exactly what is needed for a LT1 stroker short block.