LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Crazy oil pressure problem. Rises, drops then rises at WOT. WTF???

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Old 08-13-2010, 04:08 PM
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i'd have to go with oil sloshing first..

also what kind of filter you using?
Old 08-13-2010, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993 z28 f1
Hey:

What was the fix to this?

Dub
I recently replaced the sender unit and the problem is largely gone according to that guage. I figure this new one is not as sensitive to quick changes in pressure like the older one which is not the OE on BTW.

Some have told me they had the problem and a milodon pan cured it so if thats the case, yes the oil is sloshing around.

I have decided to live with it because if it were gonne blow, it would have already done it.
Old 08-14-2010, 11:47 PM
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I have this same issue. However, mine started when I took off my oil cooler and replaced my sensor. Except mine drops to 0 when I go to stop. I've got to drop the pan but with a 6spd its almost impossible. Seems like I must. I will say I had a lifter problem. I replaced it and still has the same issue.
Old 08-16-2010, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by RyanSws6
I have this same issue. However, mine started when I took off my oil cooler and replaced my sensor. Except mine drops to 0 when I go to stop. I've got to drop the pan but with a 6spd its almost impossible. Seems like I must. I will say I had a lifter problem. I replaced it and still has the same issue.
If its going to zero when stopping, the pickup has fallen off the pump. Take that to the bank. Bang on the bottom of the pan with a mallet and you will hear it bouncing around in there.
Old 08-16-2010, 08:38 PM
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speed_demon24 i believe was having the same issue a long time ago with his canton pan. I think he replaced the canton joke of a windage screen and put a cheap moroso or milodon unit in and it fixed the problem. Fast forward to last year and I was having this same issue but it wouldn't jump back up after it dropped to 20ish. Same canton pan... put a cheap moroso tray in and now the problem is fixed. When we tore the motor down the bearings had some pretty good scuffing in only 1500 miles. I'd put a good tray in there and a good pan and hell if you're serious put an accusump on there
Old 08-16-2010, 10:10 PM
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Had this exact same problem on my old car (rebuilt motor with the same oil setup as yours). Same RPM and everything. Never fixed it, I tried all the different oil weights, filters, etc but after all the searching I did, it seemed like an aftermarket pan was the only fix. I never got around to getting one and sold the car as is, but it ran good and had about 6k miles on them motor the last time I saw it.
Old 08-17-2010, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Wicked94Z
Fast forward to last year and I was having this same issue but it wouldn't jump back up after it dropped to 20ish.
Good discussion guys.

This sounds like a different problem than mine. Mine would drop to 20# and bounce back up to 60# immediately. I never saw it not, return like what Wicked or Speed had. I am going to get this Moroso tray this winter.
Old 08-17-2010, 09:50 PM
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What we could be seeing here is a mind-set problem.

If one goes into a diagnostic procedure believing that all is well, correct, installed right, etc., chances of finding the cause of the problem is much reduced.

However, if one goes into a diagnostic procedure being SUSPICIOUS of everything; SUSPICIOUS that it's NOT correct, NOT installed right, etc., then finding the cause becomes much easier.

"I checked 'this' and it's fine and I had 'that' checked and it's fine isn't getting us anywhere since the problem persists. So, obviously it's something that's being MIS-DIAGNOSED or MISSED ENTIRELY. Otherwise the problem would be fixed by now.


This is not a personal attack; it happens a lot on this and other Forums. Guys believing and posting that everything they checked was fine - yet after many, many post exchanges they finally discover and admit what they "thought" was correct, in fact wasn't. Hell, I just through this with my son!!!

Best advice is to attack this by thinking that EVERYTHING is WRONG or at the very least SUSPECT. Have diagrams in front of you and pay meticulous attention to even the smallest detail. Many guys can't or won't do that.

A second pair of fresh eyes often pays off too. Eyes of someone who isn't pre-conditioned to believing everything is RIGHT/CORRECT. He can be more critical and objective.


Jake
Old 08-24-2010, 02:27 PM
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I dropped the K and pan, found the tube inside!! I know when it came off too, on the second pass I made in the car...

I hope this solved my issue! IT wasn't easy doing this, with the 6spd I needed to hang the eng.
Old 08-24-2010, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by RyanSws6
I dropped the K and pan, found the tube inside!! I know when it came off too, on the second pass I made in the car...

I hope this solved my issue! IT wasn't easy doing this, with the 6spd I needed to hang the eng.
Glad you found it. Dropping that pan is MF as you now know. Weld that dude on solid.
Old 08-24-2010, 03:47 PM
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I'll weld it for my 383 eng, for now I just made it harder to press in and put a little RTV for extra hold. I hardly get on it and if it happens again well then is the final reason to just pull it and swap parts to the 383 LT block. For now I'll let it sit a couple days before I add oil. I'll post my psi, should be good. IT used to be 35-40 hot idle 55 hot 1500+ rpm
Old 08-25-2010, 12:06 AM
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How far foward does the pick up sit in a canton pan?



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