LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Am I getting into a trap?

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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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Default Am I getting into a trap?

Buying a 95 LT1 Saturday and was wondering if you guys had any opinions. The clincher is that he's selling it for $350 and it has 110kish on it he says. I'm just worried that I'm getting taken here. I plan on doing a H/C/I build either way, but I'm worried that maybe there's something wrong internally, ie. spun bearing and God knows what else. Am I within reason to be concerned, or am I being a little bitch? I've only got a budget of about $2000 right now. Any help would be appreciated!
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 08:02 PM
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A whole car for $350 or just a motor? Sounds a little cheap for a good motor. I would tear the whole bottom end apart to make sure it's ok. You could always have the guy sign something saying that he his selling you the motor in normal working order to help you out if its messed up.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 08:26 PM
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Yes just the motor itself. Gonna work on a build slowly(6-9 mos), but I just don't want to get into a bind right off the bat ya know?
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 09:05 PM
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Ok he just told me that the head gaskets are blown but the motor was running before he pulled it...it was just overheating. Hmmmmm.....
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 09:19 PM
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umm yea no. if $350 is worth it to you to have a rebuildable block and heads then go for it. expect the worst and hope for the best. i bought a head gasket special for $200 then later found 2 pistons had shattered rings (never burned oil my ***) and another one for $150 that had broken main cap bolts (how the hell do you do that?). not to discredit the seller but there are a lot of shady LT1 parts sellers especially impy ss owners.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 09:38 PM
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Well dammit! I oughta just save my cash then.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 10:00 PM
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What do you guys expect for a couple hundred bucks.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by airfix
What do you guys expect for a couple hundred bucks.
lol, the truth.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 10:05 PM
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I'm wondering if I just buy it, then scrap the internals regardless, and then go forged 383. But then I have to get it align honed at the minimum. What kind of funds am I looking at then? Never done this before.
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 10:13 PM
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Just the forged rotating assymble alone would be at least 1500
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 11:39 PM
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^^^ what he said
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 11:48 PM
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sorry had to do it
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 05:31 AM
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^^^ Good stuff man. Alright I get the point. I'll post up in the Parts Wanted section then.Thanks Gents.
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 06:01 PM
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Don't buy it I got screwed on a shortblock and lawyers ain't cheap these days and even if you win a case if the guy screws you chances are if you do infact ever see your cash again it will be years later. Although $350 ain't too bad compared to the $1300 I paid haha.
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 06:18 PM
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 08:07 PM
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I'd pass
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 08:32 PM
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lol you should pull the pan and check the bearings and journals before passing judgment. If they are good and the head gaskets are blown, Take the frigin heads off and then check the cylinider walls. What the **** else is there to go wrong? The block? He has admitted that it had blown head gaskets. Check the deck and who cares if the heads are warped just have them worked like you plan to do anyway. If the bottom end is good, take it apart, Machine it, change the bearings, put a new oil pump and drive in it, Change the pistons and rings, buy the cam you want and heads. Buy a valve train and you have a fresh bottom end to match the top end. Do it in stages if you have to. This build with an engine builder doing the work should cost about 5k if you don't have to change the crank and rods.
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