Anybody running a fast classic ecu and very knowledgeable how its wired to your car ?
04-16-2010, 01:25 PM
#1
Anybody running a fast classic ecu and very knowledgeable how its wired to your car ? We are just running into a brick wall and are out of all ideas as to why this LT1 will not rev past 3800-4000 rpms's . Soon as you get to that point , tach drops out and starts going crazy and the motor sounds like its hitting a 2 step , actually a little more violent than that . Its definately an ignition problem , not fuel . We have been over and over the wiring , tested possible sheilding issues with the wires . I need some outside advise here .
ECU- Using fast classic ecu with no factory pcm ( its a drag car) . ECU verified good by fast last week .
Ignition - Mallory hi-fire box ( box verified GOOD ) . MSD blaster coil ( not LT1 style , its the cannister type like an ol small block as we've eliminated the coil module ) .
Given what the tach is doing , the problem should be between the ecu and the ignition box . That where I cant see anything wrong . White Points wire off the FAST ecu is the trigger for the ig. box . Getting sw12volt thru a relay board , the constant power is off the battery and its grounded to the cylinder head . Black and orange wires go to the coil . Theres no known shielding issues , weve tried isolating just about everything .
The other thought was the opti is just not wired right . The Opti is verified GOOD . it was wired per FAST's recommendation . On the opti connector , pin A is crank reference(brown/white wire on fast connector) , Pin B is not used in the fast environment , pin c is switched 12 volt ( we have this powered off a relay board ) , Pin D is ground . Not sure how else to wire that . I cant find anyone that can 100% say its right or worng either .
Any insight ? This is thee only thing holding this car up for the season .
ECU- Using fast classic ecu with no factory pcm ( its a drag car) . ECU verified good by fast last week .
Ignition - Mallory hi-fire box ( box verified GOOD ) . MSD blaster coil ( not LT1 style , its the cannister type like an ol small block as we've eliminated the coil module ) .
Given what the tach is doing , the problem should be between the ecu and the ignition box . That where I cant see anything wrong . White Points wire off the FAST ecu is the trigger for the ig. box . Getting sw12volt thru a relay board , the constant power is off the battery and its grounded to the cylinder head . Black and orange wires go to the coil . Theres no known shielding issues , weve tried isolating just about everything .
The other thought was the opti is just not wired right . The Opti is verified GOOD . it was wired per FAST's recommendation . On the opti connector , pin A is crank reference(brown/white wire on fast connector) , Pin B is not used in the fast environment , pin c is switched 12 volt ( we have this powered off a relay board ) , Pin D is ground . Not sure how else to wire that . I cant find anyone that can 100% say its right or worng either .
Any insight ? This is thee only thing holding this car up for the season .
