LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Crank hub stuck!

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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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Default Crank hub stuck!

Have tried for 5 hrs to remove this hub. Even broken 2 bolts on the puller. Any suggestions?
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 08:32 PM
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Did you remove the bolt in the center?
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 08:39 PM
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Yea lol I did
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 09:40 PM
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You have to push off the bolt when it is loosened up. I bet your pushing on the hub in the center like a lot of people have done including myself.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 09:44 PM
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So put the bolt back it loose and pull it that way?
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 09:52 PM
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Yeh. Have the bolt backed out some threads then have the center of your removal tool push from the bolt. Then loosen the bolt some more and do it again till it comes off.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 09:54 PM
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God that makes so much sense. Thanks a ton I will hafta try in morning.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 10:57 PM
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Yeah, you must have something in the center bolt hole for the puller to press on or it will be pressing against the hub.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 04:15 AM
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It makes me uncomfortable to use the crank bolt and have to rely on the threads to take all the pressure of removing the hub. I usually buy a smaller diameter/longer Grade 8 bolt that will bottom out in the crank to push off from.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
It makes me uncomfortable to use the crank bolt and have to rely on the threads to take all the pressure of removing the hub. I usually buy a smaller diameter/longer Grade 8 bolt that will bottom out in the crank to push off from.
Yes, you need a substitute for the bolt that is smaller (and strong) and will bottom out in the hole. Pushing against a threaded-in bolt is a recipe for disaster (same thing goes for using the bolt to pull the hub back on).

Every time I read like what is in post #1, I know they are doing it wrong and pushing against the center of the hub.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
It makes me uncomfortable to use the crank bolt and have to rely on the threads to take all the pressure of removing the hub. I usually buy a smaller diameter/longer Grade 8 bolt that will bottom out in the crank to push off from.
THat is what i like to do as well. I made a special bolt to push on. Its the same thread as the stock bolt just longer, and i drilled a indentation in the bolt head to keep the bolt on the puller seated on top.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 11:24 AM
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A good hub puller includes properly sized threaded inserts to avoid this problem. Once you use the right tool, you'll wonder why you did it any other way, IMO.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 01:11 PM
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If you do use the bolt to push off of, make sure you stay centered on it with puller. Some use a socket end match bolt size (5/8) If you push of at a uneven angle your on the road to a hard bolt that is broke off in the crank.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 05:36 PM
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forgive my ignorance but is the puller you are talking about look like this?

it comes with the pushrods that will bottom out on the crank to allow you to pull it out.
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 10:02 PM
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i like using the push rod style myself. makes it much easier.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 08:43 PM
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Fu&k.. i didnt put the bolt back in and autozone is gonna be pissed. lol
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Biggin'89
i like using the push rod style myself. makes it much easier.
I like using this one.
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