first time at track not to impressed
04-28-2010, 10:19 PM
#81
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This build sounds like a whole bunch of fail to me.
You need to figure out what is robbing the car from power. Something isn't running right. My car was spinning like a **** on stall launches on Sumitomo tires with 2.5 60 fts my first time out and I still managed to trap 80mph. Spinning isn't winning for sure!
The CC306 needs more than 6000rpm to be pulling to power. You need bigger fuel injectors. I wonder what your "ported heads" flow. 3600 stall, 3.73 gears, LT's, ORY, cutouts, etc. should help you out quite a bit. A nice dyno tune or pcm4less tune will top it off also
You need to figure out what is robbing the car from power. Something isn't running right. My car was spinning like a **** on stall launches on Sumitomo tires with 2.5 60 fts my first time out and I still managed to trap 80mph. Spinning isn't winning for sure!
The CC306 needs more than 6000rpm to be pulling to power. You need bigger fuel injectors. I wonder what your "ported heads" flow. 3600 stall, 3.73 gears, LT's, ORY, cutouts, etc. should help you out quite a bit. A nice dyno tune or pcm4less tune will top it off also
04-29-2010, 06:20 AM
#82
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i plan on getting LTs, injectors, gears, etc,etc. but like i said it was probably more of the driver because i didnt spin at all which is why i said i can probably launch it alot better cut my 60' down and pick up on the top end.
04-29-2010, 08:57 AM
#83
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No not yet. I did install my cutout a couple days ago and might have found a set of hooker long tubes. I also changed the fuel filter and it definatly needed changing(Just tripped 100k miles). Check the gap on the plugs and they were .050. So im slowly getting the parts i want so i can get rid of the more restriced parts. Friday night i might be going to the track since i think i can launch it better/harder. I know some of yall might not agree to take it and race it without checking air/fuel and all that but i think it was more less a driver problem. Not launching it hard as it could. And if i cant improve then than ill keep it in the garage untill i get it straight. And i have my buddys slicks on it to see how they would fit so ill try and run them at that track if he lets me. O and i did find the tune sheet from madz and the full throttle shift points were set 500.
04-29-2010, 11:21 AM
#84
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all it has on the sheet was 500 at full throtle. all i remember from the pass was it shifted at about 6500. And in the past couple weeks sometime when i cruise and hit the throttle probably 3/4 throttle it sounds like it has a backfire under the hood then it will take off. Any idea what that might be. I dont know what an opti would do if its going bad since ive never had one go bad. Car does have the orginial opti in it and it just tripped 100k miles. And i dont know if it was doing it at the track since i was racing against cars with open headers running 10s and 11s and i couldnt hear my wimpy flowmaster... Talk about embarrassing
04-29-2010, 11:40 AM
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all it has on the sheet was 500 at full throtle. all i remember from the pass was it shifted at about 6500. And in the past couple weeks sometime when i cruise and hit the throttle probably 3/4 throttle it sounds like it has a backfire under the hood then it will take off. Any idea what that might be. I dont know what an opti would do if its going bad since ive never had one go bad. Car does have the orginial opti in it and it just tripped 100k miles. And i dont know if it was doing it at the track since i was racing against cars with open headers running 10s and 11s and i couldnt hear my wimpy flowmaster... Talk about embarrassing
Where are all the "his MPH is fine given his mods" people now?
04-29-2010, 11:54 AM
#86
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Well do you have an idea what that backfire may be. Its not real loud but you can hear it and feel it since it kinda hesitates before it will take off. I dont know if that may be causing something to not run right or not. I want to say its coming out of the intake but not 100% sure.
04-29-2010, 12:04 PM
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Well do you have an idea what that backfire may be. Its not real loud but you can hear it and feel it since it kinda hesitates before it will take off. I dont know if that may be causing something to not run right or not. I want to say its coming out of the intake but not 100% sure.
Dyno, data logging, wideband, and let the trouble shooting beginning.
04-30-2010, 02:18 PM
#90
I run 12.9 @105 bolt ons only, not even springs or 1.6 roller rockers so you are supposted to be way faster than me!!!
That little pop probally is an intake backfire due to a lean condition. i have delt with the same issue.. usually at low rpms right when you first hit the gas pop then go right? lol good luck
That little pop probally is an intake backfire due to a lean condition. i have delt with the same issue.. usually at low rpms right when you first hit the gas pop then go right? lol good luck
04-30-2010, 11:45 PM
#91
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Yep thats how it does pops then takes off.. But i did run it tonight at the strip. Only thing i changed was fuel filter and put my cutout on. The best i ran was 13.28 @103 mph 2.0 60'. 1/8 mile was 8.63@86mph and that was my first run. My second run was a 13.35@106mph with a 2.0 60' and 1/8th was 8.68 @ 85 mph. My last run i made was a 13.29@ 103mph 2.0 60' 1/8th was 8.64@ 86mph. All runs were with cutout open and it was shifting a 7k this time. I think its a good improvement from my first runs a couple weeks ago and it looks pretty consistent from tonight....And off the line it feels so slow but once i get about 60' mark or so you can feel it starting to pull. and sounds a lot better like it actually want to turn the rpm's up
Last edited by orange94z28; 04-30-2010 at 11:51 PM.
05-02-2010, 01:16 PM
#92
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What do you guys think with the new times? Do you think somethings still not quite running right. Or is the stock stall,gears hurting me now more than anything? It still hooked good with no spinning. I am going to get a new tune also.
Last edited by orange94z28; 05-02-2010 at 01:36 PM.
05-02-2010, 10:53 PM
#93
Times are not really impressive. U should be making more power.
One of your runs showed a 21 mph increase from the 1/8 to the 1/4 mile. I always get 21-22 increase on my bolt on only car. I usually trap 104 to 105.
I would follow everyones advice on here and get a high stall good gears long tubes and most importantly a dyno tune. Then you should have some great times!!!
also you said 2 things that give me nightmares they are 7k rpm shifts and 100k mile opti!!!!
One of your runs showed a 21 mph increase from the 1/8 to the 1/4 mile. I always get 21-22 increase on my bolt on only car. I usually trap 104 to 105.
I would follow everyones advice on here and get a high stall good gears long tubes and most importantly a dyno tune. Then you should have some great times!!!
also you said 2 things that give me nightmares they are 7k rpm shifts and 100k mile opti!!!!
05-03-2010, 07:46 AM
#94
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So do you that the stall, gears, tune, and possiable injectors are what is hurting me now. Like i said before i checked the plugs and it showed it was running lean like you said before. And that was the first time it has ever seen 7k since i owned it and i bought it from a older lady bone stock. And i want to changed the opti out i looked at it when i put my cutout on and it was not pretty. It almost looked black from the oil on it.
05-03-2010, 08:17 AM
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So do you that the stall, gears, tune, and possiable injectors are what is hurting me now. Like i said before i checked the plugs and it showed it was running lean like you said before. And that was the first time it has ever seen 7k since i owned it and i bought it from a older lady bone stock. And i want to changed the opti out i looked at it when i put my cutout on and it was not pretty. It almost looked black from the oil on it.
Your MPH is still significantly low, you have lean backfiring, and you've verified (via a plug-chop?) that you're running lean - those are all good signs that everything is not all right. You need to get on a scan tool and wideband at a minimum to make sure everything is safe. Once its running a good a/f ratio without any issues you can think about getting on a dyno to get a spot on tune - mail order is ok, but that farther you depart from the norm, the more you really need to do it hands on, you've got worked heads, different valve sizes, and a modified compression ratio - that's getting beyond the realm of a mail order tune being good enough. And a 100k mile oil covered opti may be work checking, especially if you're trying to see 7k, which, is likely overkill considering a stock bottom end. Even if a dyno pull showed you're making good power there, I wouldn't want to turn those kind of revs without a minimum of some better rod bolts.
05-03-2010, 09:11 AM
#96
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well i probably wont run it anymore untill i get it straight i just wanted to see if it would run a quicker time than last time. Im trying to find a dyno not sure if i want to drive over5 hours to PCMforless.
05-03-2010, 09:40 AM
#97
I would get evrything done to the car that u want to do, like stall gears longtubes and whatever else. THen get a good dyno tune from a good shop.
A 5 hour drive to PCMFORLESS will be well worth your time and money if you cant find a good shop closer...
A 5 hour drive to PCMFORLESS will be well worth your time and money if you cant find a good shop closer...
