LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Want to build a 500 HP LT1

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Old 04-23-2010, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Z28Roxy
That's actually what I was getting at. I was showing that even a ridiculous low ball was $6k where some others said $5k was within reason.
Duh I missed the boat.
Old 04-23-2010, 10:24 AM
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put away about $8,000. i expected to spend no more than 6k and ended up down about 12,000. But then again, thats because i went with nothing but the best parts..

Figure this:

AI heads & cam - 3,000
crank - 500
rods - 500
pistons - 500
machine work - 1000
42lb injectors - 400
bolts, gaskets, etc - 300

**** adds up fast
Old 04-23-2010, 10:33 AM
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500 rwhp n/a has been done yet it isn't cheap at all. Its guna take a stroker, a solid roller, a single plane, and a badass set of heads. 5k won't even come close. Then when you are making this much power the stock trans and rear will break eventually. The list goes on and on.
Old 04-23-2010, 12:02 PM
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ai has a crate motor that puts out 530. might wanna check that out
Old 04-23-2010, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Dadic 78
500 Hp at the rear wheels is what I'm aiming for.

I plan on keeping the M6 and stock rear end (for now). As far as budget goes, I'm not sure what I'll be spending, just because I haven't priced out this build yet, but I'd imagine it would be in the $5K range, and that's no problem.
For just the assembled ported heads, timing chain, rods, crank, and pistons. I was approaching 5k, after the machine work and custom intake I was past 6K.

As far as the rest went it was all around the 15k range. The new 12bolt price hurt so good.
Old 04-23-2010, 12:21 PM
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hey guys im new to this site and was wondering if someone could tell me how to post a new topic ?
i know thats newbish but i need help thanx
Old 04-23-2010, 12:46 PM
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As others said, just for heads/cam/intake you're looking at around 3k. Forged parts for a 383 and machine work assume around another 3k with 2 bolt mains, more if you want 4 bolt. Then you need clutch/trans/rearend to hold 500rwhp. Just some pricing estimates below...

Heads/Cam/Intake - 3000
Forged Shortblock parts - 2200
Machine work - 1000
Clutch - 800
Rearend - 1000-3000
Gaskets,Plugs,Fluids,Tune....ah cars cost too much
Old 04-23-2010, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Dadic 78
500 Hp at the rear wheels is what I'm aiming for.

I plan on keeping the M6 and stock rear end (for now). As far as budget goes, I'm not sure what I'll be spending, just because I haven't priced out this build yet, but I'd imagine it would be in the $5K range, and that's no problem.
lol, I am at 7k for mine and its got stock heads with nothing *special* in it. You better plan for more than 5k if you plan to make it fast, reliable. If you plan on fast, and cheap. You can plan for 5k if you wish but it may not be pretty and no way you will hit 500whp unless someone wants to give their knowledge to you.
Old 04-23-2010, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bombebomb
lol, I am at 7k for mine and its got stock heads with nothing *special* in it. You better plan for more than 5k if you plan to make it fast, reliable. If you plan on fast, and cheap. You can plan for 5k if you wish but it may not be pretty and no way you will hit 500whp unless someone wants to give their knowledge to you.
500 rw, NA is going to be expensive.

Solid Roller valvetrains are expensive.
Old 04-23-2010, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28Roxy
500 rw, NA is going to be expensive.

Solid Roller valvetrains are expensive.
Yup, gonna cost a fortune, and be a beast. (his car)
Old 04-23-2010, 02:17 PM
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Like stated, you need to at least double that 5k for a reliable 500rwhp NA engine.

Then you need a trans, rear, and suspension to handle it.

BTW you don't need a solid roller for 500rwhp through an m6.
Old 04-23-2010, 03:29 PM
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If 500rwhp is all your looking for then maybe you should do a budget rebuild 355 with some forged pistons and rods and stock crank, arp, splayed caps then put a P1SC from ATI on it. Probably end up being cheaper if your only looking for 500rwhp IMO.
Old 04-23-2010, 03:42 PM
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I can easily see $8k/500rwhp N/A building a sound engine, a good clutch and putting a 9" under the car but, i can get the hookup on getting a 9" fab'd (mostly myself)...thats without uprading the tranny internally.

Of course, I can do a lot myself I'd say $9k/500rwhp is more feasible for a decent setup to be reliable and that's saying you know how to degree a cam, assemble a motor,tranny rearend and the such....Knowing motors, fabrication and how to weld are very helpful when in the automotive hobby!


or, spend 6-7 and blow the tranny and rear. All of this is very pointless if you don't have or plan to upgrade the suspension....
Old 04-23-2010, 03:42 PM
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I wanted to hit 500 RWHP building an N/A 396. I wanted the stock appearing setup, no forced induction, even keeping AIR and EGR!
It's doable...but fairly expensive.
I probably could have done better price-wise by buying things one at a time on the forum, new or slightly used, and assembled it myself, but I had a fully forged 396 short block quoted to me assembled with all new parts for about $3600.
Then I was going to go with Trick Flow 215's from AI.
A solid roller setup would be optimal to make the power you'd like to make, along with higher compression and race gas.
I'd be willing to bet you'd have a good $6K in a motor, unless you come across something pretty nice for sale complete. I was able to pick up a complete low compression 383 minus fuel injectors for $3900, less than 2000 miles on the build.
JasonShort is a great resource for N/A LT1 396's, and has made some pretty serious power with them. He might be able to give you some words of wisdom to point you in the right direction.
Old 04-23-2010, 04:27 PM
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just put your 6spd and 10 bolt behind Joes engine (forged 383 with AI 200cc heads and a not so big cam)
Old 04-23-2010, 04:33 PM
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Well you need to do a few things.

Totally set up the budget and do things NA or run a blower/n2o for 500rw.

3. would be shoot for 450rwhp. Than build a AI 200cc 383, done deal.
Old 04-23-2010, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by hsyr
If 500rwhp is all your looking for then maybe you should do a budget rebuild 355 with some forged pistons and rods and stock crank, arp, splayed caps then put a P1SC from ATI on it. Probably end up being cheaper if your only looking for 500rwhp IMO.
Word, but he doesn't want to use boost.

Like I said SR valvetrains (along with optimal heads) are expensive. Pretty much figure you can almost buy a blower with the cost saved by just buying a set of unported trick flow heads and the not so expensive valvetrain stuff mild cam forced induction cars need.
Old 04-23-2010, 05:32 PM
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IMHO if you don't have 10K......don't bother trying for 500 RWHP because the OH buy the ways will kill your budget...

Where's the quality headers....quality tune........Ported intake, larger Throttle body, exhaust etc ..?

If you try to squeek by you'll probably end up like so many others with a rolling chassis for sale (with 7K of reciepts)


I've always come up with a detailed budget and then doubled it....sometimes I end up under budget but other times I've come in at or over so double your 5K guesstimate and you may be close.

Fast, cheap, reliable choose two........
Mike
Old 04-23-2010, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by gregrob
You realize more cubes lets you turn LESS rpm and make the same power, right?
so yur suggesting a 350 bottom end will make more power at 7,000+ rpm's than a 383 or 396 would?
Old 04-23-2010, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MasterTomos
so yur suggesting a 350 bottom end will make more power at 7,000+ rpm's than a 383 or 396 would?
All things being equal a 383 would make very similar peak numbers to a 350, but make them at a lower rpm...allowing you to run bigger cam, bigger heads, etc that a 350 wouldn't be able to run without spinning to the moon .

::EDIT:: To the OP: With things like these make sure you know where you are getting your info from...there are two, maybe three people in this whole thread with an engine capable of 500rwhp through a low loss drivetrain. Those would be the guys I would ask questions from first


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