I didn't really like this cam when I had it. I used it with a set of AFR 190's on my 383. Made peak power at 6500 I shifted at 6700. Didn't this guy say those heads made 390rwhp on a buddy's car with a 306 cam? They can't be too bad since that is quite a bit higher than this cam typically makes with stock heads. Probably just needs better valve train to control that huge *** cam. IMO, it's way too big for those heads. You need a smaller cam and better valve train. Post up the dyno when you get your scanner fixed so we can help you.

 

His setup is far from optimal, but it is already in the car so changing the cam or heads now will be expensive.

In this thread you will see he had questions about his tuners ability, had exhaust leaks, shifted at a low RPM, and had shift lite anomalies that may have resulted in even lower shift points than the 5800 originally posted. Couple these problems with spinning in the first two gears and he had many problems and that gives him a lot of 'free potential'. The cost now is Tunercats and that will put him at this point. "It is what it is!"

The good news is he converted to OBDI and started his car and now has his cable working and last night started collecting data with datamaster. He will buy Tunercats this Friday and then be able to load a tune and make changes to his setup.

I had offered to tune it for him, but with all the people willing to help I bet he will have many people offer to do it and all I am sure will exceed my measly 12 year engine control experience. The contributions of the knowledgeable people here on the forum will shine through and ensure his car runs tip top!

Glad it will all work out.

 

My heads are setup for a cc 306 but I called comp tech line and told them what springs I have and they said my head setup would work fine with the 292 cam I just had to check pushrod lenth which I did.

 

what springs are they?

 

not to thread hijack but wicked94z i tryed sending you a pm said ur box was full. you wanting to sell that stick still?

 

They are crane spring good to 600 lift I at work dont have al the specs

 

those xfi lobes are to much for those crane springs i bet they are cranes 10308-1 you may have to switch to the beehives or the Patriot Gold Extreme springs.. i had the 10308-1 with a xfi280 and upgraded to the golds so you may be having value float depending on how old the springs are...just my .2

 

the XFI cam lobes are similar to LS cam profiles and require "bee hive" springs. Even if a convential single or dual spring has the open and seat pressure of a 918 spring they don't react in the same way as bee hive's do with the XFI grinds.

while many have offered you solid advice on this thread..changeing to a bee hive spring will most likely be in your future if you want the RPM's that cam requires without float.

 

I think it would prob.be best to change the cam instead of springs but Iam going to get the tune right first.

 

The springs have to match what the cam requires. Don't assume that the springs you have now will suffice for whatever cam you plan to run in the future.

I would honestly look into some beehives.

 

My cam has XFI lobes and 918's, 1218's and some other PSI beehives could not control the valves. It ultimately took Patriot duals to eliminate the valve float.

Beehives work better on LS1 better because they have lighter valves. LT1 valves are heavier and on aggressive lobes, will not be controlled like on an LS1. Not saying beehives dont work on LT1. They just did not work for my cam.

 

Are you running 1.5 or 1.6 rockers? Those are the springs I run on my 306 set-up, but the ramp rates may be too large on the 292 for those springs. I would switch over to a good set of beehives or some very good dual springs, and go with a custom grind if I was you. The crane 10308 kit is probably under par for that cam.

 

1.6 Comp Pro Mags

 

I would look into beehives also. Not to mention, tunes are not universal they will change with each cam you have.

 

Iknow but if its tuned right I will know more about what my motor is doing like timing and afr

 

I would rather have a well set-up motor with a shitty tune than a poorly set-up motor with a good tune.

 

yes your tune need to be right...but if Jesus came to your door to tune it and the motor had issues....he would not be able to get it right. you need to address the mechanical issues first than have the tune looked in to.

as noted that cam is not ideal and when set up correctly requires high (7k) RPMs to see max potential.

another cam choice with correct springs set up properly AND a good tune wiould be the best situation.

as mentioned keeping what you have will also work...just need to get valve train up to it and the tune if that in fact needs attention.

 

Jesus

 

As I detailed earlier Comp will give you bad information as it relates to necessary springs because their rpm range is all wrong for an LT1.

 

Dyno Graph