tune issues
I dont know i dont have access to a scanner. I really wish i could see if i have knock retard. It might be just me but the car felt faster within the tune. i was able to spin my nittos though 1st and halfway though 2nd and now i cant even come close
Well did you do a knock desensitise with the tune? If you'r stock chip is back in it will definately sence knock and pull timing so you'll definately be losing power. Why did you take you'r piggyback out?
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 284
Likes: 1
From: Hebron, Oh
If your stock prom is not piggybacked to the adapter, your knock counts will go crazy. Another guy in a recent thread had his factory prom come loose from the adapter and this is what was causing his knock counter to increment erratically. If yours is out, put it back in.
Typically the only solution to this is a good street tune, assuming there is no mechanical issue causing the fuel to be way off.
A mail order tune will not get the fuel exactly right simply through math. That is the reason why cars have o2 sensors. Different temperatures/humidity/etc depending on your location as well as the type and condition of various components in the car will cause the calculated fuel to be off. In most cases, it should only be off by a little. But that won't always be the case.
With a street tune, the goal is to gather data from each trim cell and then adjust the tune (MAF or VE depending on which you have) to bring the calculated a/f to within as accurate a range as possible. This will result in better open loop operation (when the car is cold) and will ensure the o2 sensors have plenty of margin for error during closed loop.
A mail order tune will not get the fuel exactly right simply through math. That is the reason why cars have o2 sensors. Different temperatures/humidity/etc depending on your location as well as the type and condition of various components in the car will cause the calculated fuel to be off. In most cases, it should only be off by a little. But that won't always be the case.
With a street tune, the goal is to gather data from each trim cell and then adjust the tune (MAF or VE depending on which you have) to bring the calculated a/f to within as accurate a range as possible. This will result in better open loop operation (when the car is cold) and will ensure the o2 sensors have plenty of margin for error during closed loop.
Your exactly right. I wish i had 500 bucks. I think the reason my tune is so far off is becasue I'm here is colorado where it's waaay dry and the air is very thin. It's really hard to make power here. I grew up in a small town in ND, when i used to drive back with my 1991 rs to visit friends i can feel the power coming back like crazy, it went from not being able to even break the tires loose, to spinning through 1st.
