djm_e22

iTrader: (2)

I was going to do a 350 shot nitrous route but with the help of people on here I decided to not go that route. So I'm thinking a procharger will be a safer route cause I don't here to often of people's fuel injectors stop working but I do here of solenoids getting stuck. Would not want that to happen with a 350 shot!!

Anyhow, I already have LE1 heads. When I do finally switch to a procharger, what amount of boost do you think it will take with these LE1 heads to reach 575-600 rwhp through a 355ci engine, th350 and 9" rear end?

Correct me if I'm wrong but the max boost I plan on running will depend on the compression ratio I will need. Right? What compression ratio do you think is best for the amount of boost I will need to achieve 575-600rwhp through LE1 heads?

Will my forged eagle crankshaft and eagle h-beam rods handle this amount of power? I also plan on adding 100 shot of nitrous on top of that? Will this be possible as well with the eagle stuff?

Also I think I have heard of a gasket called cometic? Supposedly real expensive. Is this needed for the turbo and 100shot of nitrous?

Are hellfire rings necessary for this turbo/nitrous combo?

Thanks for any help.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Instead of going with a 350 shot, why not step it down to a 250? That's much more manageable, IMO.

86formula

iTrader: (3)

and do you want a procharger or a turbo?

djm_e22

iTrader: (2)

I really want to go the forced induction route and just add a 100 shot when necessary.

Procharger. Which I know it eats alot of power compared to a turbo. That is why I am curious if my forged eagle assembly can hold up to the 600rwhp plus a 100 shot of nitrous. Since there is actually alot more horsepower happening at the flywheel with the procharger compared to a turbo.

But I really like the ease of installation with the procharger.

ulakovic22

iTrader: (12)

Eagle will hold fine, make sure you get good pistons. You can probably run 10ish psi and reach your goal so you need to be around 9ish CR unless you want to use a lot of Water/Meth. It all depends on the tuner.

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

which procharger are you looking at? What kind of compression? Cam? Rpm? give us more info.

ulakovic22

iTrader: (12)

I don't think he has anymore info. I think he just wants to take his current car/setup and either do nitrous or a P1SC.

djm_e22

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking about doing the procharger to get 600rwhp and add some nitrous to get to 700rwhp. But I have also read that when adding nitrous with a forced induction the air/fuel ratios can be hard to control.

So now I am thinking of just using the procharger alone to get me to the 700rwhp through a th350 or th400 and 9". But I can only imagine how much power that is at the flywheel do to a supercharger being uneffecient compared to a turbo.

How much would you guestimate that to be at the flywheel if I was pumping 700rwhp through the th350 or th400 and 9"? Can my eagle stuff still hold up?

Also now what compression piston and boost would I need to reach 700rwhp through my LE1 heads and 355ci with preferably pump gas?

Thanks for all the help.

T/ALT1

iTrader: (3)

It will take roughly 875-900fwhp to reach your goal of 700rwhp. Thats not an easy task by any means but not impssible. You will have a much harder time reaching your HP goal with a Procharger and you also have issues like belt slippage, pulleys etc.. I would go with a turbo and it will be much easier to reach 700rwhp but it will take more than 15psi of boost to get there. Your heads are not going to be a restriction on a forced induction setup but you will need about 9.1 compression, either copper headgaskets or Cometic will work. You will need a killer fuel system, intercooler, 76+mm turbo, good turbo cam, Engine management and maybe a little n2o. What are your et goals and budget for the build? I am planning to go with a turbo or supercharger along with a little shot of n2o next year too. I am setting my car up with a water/methkit, singleplane intake and aftermarket ECU before I go forced induction. later Clint

djm_e22

iTrader: (2)

I didn't think I would need an aftermarket ECU. I am pretty sure Moe Bailey with his LT1 procharger(he is switching to turbo now) made 722rwhp with race gas and stock pcm. Now I don't know all his engine specs.

Maybe I will switch to turbo. Now you said 9:1 compression for the 700rwhp. Could I do that with pump gas or would I need to lower compression even more?

No real budget limit. Will be slowly buying things. Hoping to reach mid 9's.

Can anyone tell me of some turbo kits to buy? Cause I thought there werent to many people selling them.

boosted LT1

iTrader: (3)

~.8 Flywheel = RWHP that is AVERAGE not specific so use it as a guess only. 350 and 9 will tend to lose more.

Another SWAG is NA HP (1 + boost psi/14.7) so if your motor has 350 RWHP NA and you run 1 bar (atmosphere ~14.7)

350 (1 + 14.7/14.7) = 700 rwhp

That ASSUMES alot and don't expect to get any where near it. I run 8.5:1 with copper head gasket and o ring. If you aren't o ringed you will likely have trouble long before you reach 700 RWHP. O ring copper can take >25 psi.

BUT also remember the boost psi is just a number a free flowing motor can easilly make more hp with less boost than a more restrictive motor. So keep this in mind when throwing numbers around. Also realize a less restrictive motor needs a larger turbo which means more expense and more turbo lag...there are no free lunches.

You want a turbo that can EASILLY provide the air flow you need to allow it to produce the hp efficiently. My car launches and finishes the 1/8 at about ambient plus 20 degrees. For example Friday night temp at track was 67 I launched at 86 and finished I think the 5th pass was the worst and was 90 degrees F the others were mid to low 80's

Inlet Air Temperature gives an idea how hard the turbos are working. BTW that is with 50/50 meth that comes in at 10 psi

I would definately research alot more before I put a setup together mistakes made now will cost ALOT later.

Good luck

boosted LT1

iTrader: (3)

Also I had a set of LE heads and decided to trade them once I saw how thin the material in the head is. They might hold boost but I didn't feel comfortable knowing I wanted to turn it up.

What works great NA isn't usually the best choice for boosted.

Good luck

ulakovic22

iTrader: (12)

So your end goal is to get to 700rwhp? It's going to take a lot to do that. As mentioned above the more effecient your motor the lower the boost has to be. Lower boost means more reliable. I would step up to a better head and be prepared to do a lot of work on the intake. To get 700rwhp on pump you are looking around 18ish psi. and you will need water/meth, no way around it. The tune becomes SUPER important at this point as well.

If you are chasing a number you should switch transmissions, if you are after ET you will be faster with the auto.

djm_e22

iTrader: (2)

Yeah that is why I was wondering how much boost I need to reach 700rwhp Since I only have LE1 heads, I knew I would need more boost to reach my goal compared to an aftermarket ported head.

So definantly go with copper gasket 0-ring heads. I will be constantly researching for the next year and a half.

ulakovic22

iTrader: (12)

What does the machining cost to o-ring the heads? Do you have to do the block as well?

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

It does not take 200 ******* horsepower to run the drive train. Geeze I get sick of this ricer math.

djm_e22

iTrader: (2)

Those heads won't work? My intake is completely ported and polished. I definantly would rather be faster.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

I think your biggest problem is not going to be your head CFM, but your head CC and keeping your compression down. You're going to need -31cc pistons and thick head gaskets.

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

I run flat tops with 13.5:1 and plan to go 30 psi

ulakovic22

iTrader: (12)

It's not an issue of "working" as much as being effecient. Boost is a result of there being pressure in your manifold/cylinders. The more pressure you have the more issues you will have with lifting heads or popping a hole in whatever your weakest link is. Not to mention how fast you have to spin your charger/turbo and where it's effeciency is. A more effecient motor will make the same power on lower boost.

Lets just say:

700 = stock heads/exhaust + 25psi
700 = stock heads/LT's + 22psi
700 = ported stockers/LT's + 18psi
700 = TFS 21*/single plane/LT's + 15psi

The easier the air flows through your motor the lower the amount of pressure you need and ultimately the longer your engine will live. Same thing can be said about cubic inches and RPM.