Problem(s) with 1995 Trans Am
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Okay, I'm having some problems with my '95 T/A LT1/M6. Lately, I've noticed the coolant has some oil getting in there. I know my fan is shot, and when the temp gets up to 210, I just shut it down, pop the hood, and wait for her to cool.
I know it needs the fans (which I will replace tonight) but I also want to know, what could cause the oil and coolant to mix, besides the obvious, and much dreaded phrase, of "head gasket"?
I know the radiator has some cracking on the outside (indicates issues...) so is there ANY way the oil and coolant could be mixing through the radiator? How about intake manifolds; this one is definitely seeping fluids, so could it be getting around in there? Any other ideas?
I just don't want to think about dropping another $1,000+ into this car (I am mechanically inclined, but not good enough to do a head gasket, and I just got the car, so $1k is a mighty big investment to make).
Thanks!
- Jake R. @ WVU
I know it needs the fans (which I will replace tonight) but I also want to know, what could cause the oil and coolant to mix, besides the obvious, and much dreaded phrase, of "head gasket"?
I know the radiator has some cracking on the outside (indicates issues...) so is there ANY way the oil and coolant could be mixing through the radiator? How about intake manifolds; this one is definitely seeping fluids, so could it be getting around in there? Any other ideas?
I just don't want to think about dropping another $1,000+ into this car (I am mechanically inclined, but not good enough to do a head gasket, and I just got the car, so $1k is a mighty big investment to make).
Thanks!
- Jake R. @ WVU
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Coolant in the oil is almost always a head gasket. The LT1 has a dry manifold, so it won't be the intake or intake gaskets.
No oil passes through the radiator in these cars so that isn't possible.
I doubt your fans are "shot." They aren't programmed to come on until 226 degrees (235 for the high speed). Since you don't let it heat up past 210, there's no way for you to tell whether or not they come on on their own. These cars are engineered to run hot for emissions purposes. Additionally, turn on your A/C and see if the fans come on - they should.
If the fans still don't come on once you get to 226 degrees, test the coolant temperature sensor located on the face of the water pump housing. shbox.com has the procedure outlined.
No oil passes through the radiator in these cars so that isn't possible.
I doubt your fans are "shot." They aren't programmed to come on until 226 degrees (235 for the high speed). Since you don't let it heat up past 210, there's no way for you to tell whether or not they come on on their own. These cars are engineered to run hot for emissions purposes. Additionally, turn on your A/C and see if the fans come on - they should.
If the fans still don't come on once you get to 226 degrees, test the coolant temperature sensor located on the face of the water pump housing. shbox.com has the procedure outlined.
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They still don't come on. In all honesty, I don't think they've worked since I bought the car.
ANY other possibility for how oil (or an oil-like substance) could get into the coolant? If it's a definite HG, this car's going straight to a junk yard, I just don't have the $$$ for a HG, much less that plus any other repairs this car might need in the forseeable future.
EDIT> could it be something else getting into the coolant? Now that I think about it, I changed the oil with Royal Purple (a slightly purple oil for those who haven't used it) and the stuff in there is a bit too brown for 1,000 miles on the royal purple (which still shows a strong purple color). Trans fluid is getting up there in age ... god only knows how long it's been since some of this stuff was changed (okay, the previous owner'd also know). Could it be that the previous owner tried using stop leak on the radiator and it's still in there? Anything else?
Also, if anyone knows how the oil could get in there (other than a HG) I'd appreciate it. As I said, if HG's the only option that you can find, I'll take it into a shop and pay $35 for a diag., but if it's a HG, I'm selling the car.
ANY other possibility for how oil (or an oil-like substance) could get into the coolant? If it's a definite HG, this car's going straight to a junk yard, I just don't have the $$$ for a HG, much less that plus any other repairs this car might need in the forseeable future.
EDIT> could it be something else getting into the coolant? Now that I think about it, I changed the oil with Royal Purple (a slightly purple oil for those who haven't used it) and the stuff in there is a bit too brown for 1,000 miles on the royal purple (which still shows a strong purple color). Trans fluid is getting up there in age ... god only knows how long it's been since some of this stuff was changed (okay, the previous owner'd also know). Could it be that the previous owner tried using stop leak on the radiator and it's still in there? Anything else?
Also, if anyone knows how the oil could get in there (other than a HG) I'd appreciate it. As I said, if HG's the only option that you can find, I'll take it into a shop and pay $35 for a diag., but if it's a HG, I'm selling the car.
Last edited by XtremeModifier; 05-05-2010 at 03:01 PM.
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I am mechanically inclined, but not good enough to do a head gasket, and I just got the car, so $1k is a mighty big investment to make
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Five years ago I was in your shoes, and through sites like this, I've tackled projects I never thought I could on my own.
Giv'er ****, man.
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If you're mechanically inclined, tackle the head gaskets. It's really not as bad as you may think, and if you're going to own a car like this, (whether you want to, or not) you're going to have to get familiar with working on it. If all the guys on this site paid mechanics for all the work they get done, there wouldn't be any guys on this site... be too poor to afford internet!
Five years ago I was in your shoes, and through sites like this, I've tackled projects I never thought I could on my own.
Giv'er ****, man.
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Five years ago I was in your shoes, and through sites like this, I've tackled projects I never thought I could on my own.
Giv'er ****, man.
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What these guys are saying is right, theres really not much else it can be. My guess if your fan's didnt work and engine has gotton well over 235 degree's then most likely blown head gasket.
If you think its the stop leak just drain the radiator and coolant from the block flush it all out and refill and recheck it.
Its not that hard to do head gasket just takes time but you can do it with basic tools. No special tools required.
If you think its the stop leak just drain the radiator and coolant from the block flush it all out and refill and recheck it.
Its not that hard to do head gasket just takes time but you can do it with basic tools. No special tools required.
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What these guys are saying is right, theres really not much else it can be. My guess if your fan's didnt work and engine has gotton well over 235 degree's then most likely blown head gasket.
If you think its the stop leak just drain the radiator and coolant from the block flush it all out and refill and recheck it.
Its not that hard to do head gasket just takes time but you can do it with basic tools. No special tools required.
If you think its the stop leak just drain the radiator and coolant from the block flush it all out and refill and recheck it.
Its not that hard to do head gasket just takes time but you can do it with basic tools. No special tools required.
I've decided to tackle it, mostly b/c I have two friends helping out (both about as mech. inclined as I am, but 3 sets of hands makes the work easier than 1, and combo'ing our tool collections will mean having all the tools I need).
The more I think about it, the more likely the HG diag. is. After all, we're talking an LT-1 which has cooling issues, a radiator with a coolant drip (overheated anyone!?!), and over 200k on it with an M6.
Now, onto the next question... what should I check while doing a HG? Probably figuring new rockers and lifters are a good place to start as I think I might go with some sort of cam in the next 2 years, what with no rebuilds and over 200k on the odo. Maybe pull the opti (never replaced in over 200k) and at least check it for proper op? Probably the plugs/wires, too, as those have been 60k since replacing...
Any extra suggestions, or recommendations feel more than free to go ahead. Planning on getting a budget on this, figuring out what my cash situation will be (i.e. what my Nat'l Guard Enlistment Bonus will be), and then price everything out and go shopping.
Once again, THANKS ALL! And if it does come back as a cracked block, defaultexistance, she's all yours for $1200 (rare color/t-tops/6-speed/black leather).
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Thanks!
I've decided to tackle it, mostly b/c I have two friends helping out (both about as mech. inclined as I am, but 3 sets of hands makes the work easier than 1, and combo'ing our tool collections will mean having all the tools I need).
The more I think about it, the more likely the HG diag. is. After all, we're talking an LT-1 which has cooling issues, a radiator with a coolant drip (overheated anyone!?!), and over 200k on it with an M6.
Now, onto the next question... what should I check while doing a HG? Probably figuring new rockers and lifters are a good place to start as I think I might go with some sort of cam in the next 2 years, what with no rebuilds and over 200k on the odo. Maybe pull the opti (never replaced in over 200k) and at least check it for proper op? Probably the plugs/wires, too, as those have been 60k since replacing...
Any extra suggestions, or recommendations feel more than free to go ahead. Planning on getting a budget on this, figuring out what my cash situation will be (i.e. what my Nat'l Guard Enlistment Bonus will be), and then price everything out and go shopping.
Once again, THANKS ALL! And if it does come back as a cracked block, defaultexistance, she's all yours for $1200 (rare color/t-tops/6-speed/black leather).
I've decided to tackle it, mostly b/c I have two friends helping out (both about as mech. inclined as I am, but 3 sets of hands makes the work easier than 1, and combo'ing our tool collections will mean having all the tools I need).
The more I think about it, the more likely the HG diag. is. After all, we're talking an LT-1 which has cooling issues, a radiator with a coolant drip (overheated anyone!?!), and over 200k on it with an M6.
Now, onto the next question... what should I check while doing a HG? Probably figuring new rockers and lifters are a good place to start as I think I might go with some sort of cam in the next 2 years, what with no rebuilds and over 200k on the odo. Maybe pull the opti (never replaced in over 200k) and at least check it for proper op? Probably the plugs/wires, too, as those have been 60k since replacing...
Any extra suggestions, or recommendations feel more than free to go ahead. Planning on getting a budget on this, figuring out what my cash situation will be (i.e. what my Nat'l Guard Enlistment Bonus will be), and then price everything out and go shopping.
Once again, THANKS ALL! And if it does come back as a cracked block, defaultexistance, she's all yours for $1200 (rare color/t-tops/6-speed/black leather).
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I did have a comp. check done on the motor before I bought the car, and that's what has me confused (granted, this was 2 months ago). Dead nuts on as far as compression, no leaks, only a couple points (.2? .3?) off of center of spec. Having owned several cars where one (or more) cylinders was way off, usually b/c of rings from poor maintenance. I figured no HG issues ... guess I might've been wrong. Also thought a blown HG meant that you'd get MASSIVE clouds of smoke out of the exhaust, but wrong on 2/2???
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Coolant was drained two days after I bought the car, same goes for an oil change, brake bleed, and alignment. What can I say, I like to know where my car is in terms of it's routine maintenance (kinda finicky about that...). I guess it could be the coolant mixing ... I use Prestone coolant only, what can I say, I have several dozen gallons of that stuff, might as well put 'er to good use.
Still waiting on the diagnosis from the shop. And yes, I can work on several things at once; not only do I have a backup car, but I take the bus to work now most of the time anyways.
Last edited by XtremeModifier; 05-05-2010 at 09:09 PM.
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200k mile opti.. if thats true encase it in gold.
when i got my lt1 it spun a main bearing after 4 or 5 miles, so i planed to keep the cam and valve train and get a new shortblock.
well, turns out my cam was trash the valve train was **** other then crane 10308 springs, i ended up setting a goal since the car was taken apart. I want 350+ whp lots of torque and smooth driving.
I ended up with comp lifters, pro mags 1.6rr, hardend pushrods, LE is making me a cam. I went ahead and got arp rod bolts, piston rings, gaskets for everything. rebuilding the t56. and hopefuly that is all! im still waiting on my LE cam to put the car back together.
but point being, make a goal. mine was stated above and i had to buy all the above stuff.
Don't say oh i want a cam. there is alot more to a cam then you realize off the top of your head.
when i got my lt1 it spun a main bearing after 4 or 5 miles, so i planed to keep the cam and valve train and get a new shortblock.
well, turns out my cam was trash the valve train was **** other then crane 10308 springs, i ended up setting a goal since the car was taken apart. I want 350+ whp lots of torque and smooth driving.
I ended up with comp lifters, pro mags 1.6rr, hardend pushrods, LE is making me a cam. I went ahead and got arp rod bolts, piston rings, gaskets for everything. rebuilding the t56. and hopefuly that is all! im still waiting on my LE cam to put the car back together.
but point being, make a goal. mine was stated above and i had to buy all the above stuff.
Don't say oh i want a cam. there is alot more to a cam then you realize off the top of your head.
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200k mile opti.. if thats true encase it in gold.
when i got my lt1 it spun a main bearing after 4 or 5 miles, so i planed to keep the cam and valve train and get a new shortblock.
well, turns out my cam was trash the valve train was **** other then crane 10308 springs, i ended up setting a goal since the car was taken apart. I want 350+ whp lots of torque and smooth driving.
I ended up with comp lifters, pro mags 1.6rr, hardend pushrods, LE is making me a cam. I went ahead and got arp rod bolts, piston rings, gaskets for everything. rebuilding the t56. and hopefuly that is all! im still waiting on my LE cam to put the car back together.
but point being, make a goal. mine was stated above and i had to buy all the above stuff.
Don't say oh i want a cam. there is alot more to a cam then you realize off the top of your head.
when i got my lt1 it spun a main bearing after 4 or 5 miles, so i planed to keep the cam and valve train and get a new shortblock.
well, turns out my cam was trash the valve train was **** other then crane 10308 springs, i ended up setting a goal since the car was taken apart. I want 350+ whp lots of torque and smooth driving.
I ended up with comp lifters, pro mags 1.6rr, hardend pushrods, LE is making me a cam. I went ahead and got arp rod bolts, piston rings, gaskets for everything. rebuilding the t56. and hopefuly that is all! im still waiting on my LE cam to put the car back together.
but point being, make a goal. mine was stated above and i had to buy all the above stuff.
Don't say oh i want a cam. there is alot more to a cam then you realize off the top of your head.
I'm thinking, with 200 on the odo, I probably have at least some wear/tear on pushrods, rockers, etc. My initial plan was to wait until after I graduate before I start modding stuff, but the plan was always to go for a mild cam/headers/intake/exhaust setup with a solid tune. So, I figure, while I have the heads out for a HG replacement, I might as well go in there and at least put in new rockers, lifters, etc. Now, if I'm wrong, and this would not be the right time to go in and at least build up some parts of the engine for when I put the cam in, then lemme know.
Also, once again, what other maintenance items SHOULD I check while I have the HG out? I know new plugs/wires makes sense ... should I also put in those headers while I have everything apart?
Thanks again!
- Jake R.
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What??????.....ehehhhhhhhh?
any how yes your absolutly rite! clean the carbon off the piston tops, change the lifters,pushrods,rockers,springs,retainers,use ARP head bolts or studs,get a valve job,port the heads,install the headers. when your ready to do the cam,get a new HD timing set..dont worry about a double roller,replace the timing cover seals..............i'm serious
any how yes your absolutly rite! clean the carbon off the piston tops, change the lifters,pushrods,rockers,springs,retainers,use ARP head bolts or studs,get a valve job,port the heads,install the headers. when your ready to do the cam,get a new HD timing set..dont worry about a double roller,replace the timing cover seals..............i'm serious
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Previous owner said he never replaced it ... why'd he lie that he never replaced a known, common fault? I have pages of repair bills he gave me from the car, and not one mentioned an opti.
Should know first thing tomorrow if we have a major issue (see: Head gasket) or not. Mechanic was in a hurry when he called me at closing (to tell me it won't be until Friday before I can swing on by and pick up the F-body) but said something about a thermostat issue.
Thanks for the help to everyone who helped me out on this one!!!
- Jake R.
Should know first thing tomorrow if we have a major issue (see: Head gasket) or not. Mechanic was in a hurry when he called me at closing (to tell me it won't be until Friday before I can swing on by and pick up the F-body) but said something about a thermostat issue.
Thanks for the help to everyone who helped me out on this one!!!
- Jake R.
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My advice "don't replace if its not broken", you can do plugs, and wires and few maintenance things like fluid changes. Don't get crazy tryin to do everything at once, save the money for basic mods like bolt-on's then do cam/head ect.
If you pull the heads off then ya good time to install long tubes, they can be pain in the ***, i will warn you its not cheap i spent about $1,000 just to do full exhaust from headers all the way back.
If you pull the heads off then ya good time to install long tubes, they can be pain in the ***, i will warn you its not cheap i spent about $1,000 just to do full exhaust from headers all the way back.