BCook839

I just got done doing a CC503 cam swap and puting in my new SS3600 stall converter.

On first start up I heard some loud cherping and a slight growling. It went away after the first couple minutes of running. Then it came back really bad at about the 15 minute mark.

I then noticed oil coming leaking down the front timing cover at a rate of 1 drop every 4 seconds. I proceeded to take the water pump off to find the leak, and found there to be a very large about of play in the water pump drive shaft, which was causing oil to leak from this seal

I took the timing cover off to find the bearing for the water pump drive shaft totally destroyed and metal shavings and ball bearings everywhere. Oh crap.

The engine though, other than that problem, seemed to function perfectly. How did this happen? What are the chances of this bearing failing at this same moment of the first start up? I cant figure out what I did wrong on the re-assembly if anything. I never touched this shaft or bearing. The closest thing would be that I put on a new timing chain and gears. OEM equipment.

I'm at a loss on what happened and what to do now. I think I can clean the mess up and put in a new bearing. And just change the oil 2 or three times to clean more of it out once i get it running again.

But my biggest concern is how to keep it from happening again.

Does anyone have any thoughts on what happened and what I should do now?

Thanks for reading,
Ben

1993 z28 f1

iTrader: (6)

Hey:

EWP, CSR or MEZ both work well.

DUB

When In Doubt Do Without

19mike84

+1 on an ewp, they work great

BCook839

I think a new bearing is going to be a less expensive route than a couple hundred dollar water pump. Esspecially because I just put on a new water pump last fall and I'm already down enough cash as it is with this project so far, I dont need to spend any more.

Any other thoughts on why this happened or if any body thinks it was a fluke?

thehammer69

iTrader: (2)

Could be a fluke. Did you install the water pump drive shaft correctly?

ADM

Mine leaked from the seal (new felpros) and took out the opti. If its not one thing, its always another with these cars. At least yours squealed and warned you of the upcoming failure, I didn't know it was leaking until the opti died.

MICHZ28

You could have possible got a little bit of dirt in there when you had the intake off.

BCook839

Yeah I did. I even put new o-rings on the pump and the pump's drive shaft. I am thinking it was going out and taking things apart and putting in a new cam gear just might have been the last straw for it.

I ordered new parts and have them on the way. I will be putting it back together this week and see what happens.

I'm going to light the car on fire if this happens again when I start it up after its back together.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Man, at that point, I would just convert to an electric pump and call it a day.

BCook839

Call me paranoid, but I really just dont like the idea of an electric motor pumping my coolant. If that motor stops working, **** hits the fan, no pun intended.

I wouldnt have a problem with it if i only ran the car at the track but my car see's a fair amount of usage on weekends and driving an hour to the nearest track. I'll stick with mechanical conections.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I understand your skepticism.

But you should know that they are rated for something ridiculous like 2500 hours. If you drove your car for 2 hours a day, it would last you 3 and a half years. I drive mine along the same frequency of your intended usage and it's going strong. You can also wire in a system of warning lights to indicate the pump's operation, so even if it did stop it would tell you. There are tons of cars running EWPs in DDs.

Not trying to sway you otherwise, but they are FAR more reliable than they get credit for.

BCook839

RamAir95TA: Your argument is very sensible and I understand where you are coming from. I respectfully dont doubt what you say, but i just would rather have the stock setup for the time being.

So, well I got car further apart tonight.

Is it possible the end flange of my new CC503 cam is too short? (doesnt stick out of the block far enough) Which would make the cam gear sunk in towards the block further, and cause it to rub on the water pump drive shaft gear.

Any thoughts?

I will know for sure when I get the new shaft and bearing tomorrow and install it, if they rub, that will explain everything. I didnt notice it on the first re-assembly but maybe I over looked it.

Had anyone else ever encountered this problem? ( the cam being too short )

Thanks
Ben

BCook839

Well I put the new shaft and bearing assembly in. It fits and doesnt come close to rubbing on the timing chain. There is about a 1/8" to 1/4" gap between the chain and drive shaft gear. This is where the old ruined one rubbed like crazy when it failed or before it failed, i wasnt sure. But the new one does not rub and thats all that matters.

So she's going back together. I'm crossing my fingers.

JAKEJR

I just installed a new water pump on my 96 Vette just over a week ago and was concerned about the "coupling" alignment too. As I was installing the WP I wanted to be absolutely sure the coupling perfectly aligned with the gears on the WP and on the gears extending from the block.

So I read up on what NOT to do. One of the NOT TO DO's was NOT to use more than hand pressure to press on the pump. Not to use any pry bar or tool to help force ON the WP and also NOT TO USE THE WATER PUMP BOLTS TO PRESS ON THE WATER PUMP.

After a few unsuccessful attempts, I found that it was easiest to install the "coupling", sleeve on the WP, NOT ON THE DRIVE SHAFT WHICH IS MOUNTED TO THE BLOCK.

So I used only hand pressure and a wiggling motion as I pushed on the WP using ONLY hand pressure UNTIL THE WATER PUMP FIT COMPLETELY FLUSH WITH THE BLOCK. To accomplish that, I did have to reach in - between the WP and the block, to slightly turn the coupling so as to align/index the teeth.

Once the WP fits flush with the block, I installed the six bolts by hand as far as I could, I then cross tightened all 6 bolts. I set them at 30 lb/ft with non-hardening thread sealant on the threads.

I put a small amount of grease on the "O" rings and inside both ends of the coupling as well.

My thoughts are that if the coupling is mis-aligned - at an angle rather than straight - and/or the coupling's teeth aren't correctly aligned/indexed, such damage as your may result.

I hope all works out well for you.

Jake

BCook839

JAKEJR: Thanks for the tip. Seeing has how the WP has dowl pins to make sure it is not shifted in any which way when it goes on, I dont think alignment will be an issue. Nor will the pump go all the way onto the shaft and hit the block flush unless the teath on the sleeve are lined up properly.

I have not had any problems putting it on in the past but I always, like you have, take great car in how it goes on.

SwaY496

Im in the middle of rebuilding my engine now and im looking to replace that water pump driveshaft bearing but cant find a bearing number on it. Anybody kno the part number on that bearing?