Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

I've been feeling out a slight occasional part throttle stumble lately and I suspected the aftermarket ICM I used (needed at last minute during December build, planned to replace it anyway). 2x it stumbled like hell taking of from a stop recently, all but cut off (bucked and shook like a dog shitting peach seeds). Today it cut off and wouldn't start back after about 25 minutes of varied throttle driving.

I went ahead and snagged a real D1986A ICM and I'm testing the coil with a meter, per method at Rob B's site: http://www.shbox.com/1/coil_testing.jpg.

I'm getting 9.79k ohms at all 4 corners of the connector (coil is now cold after I walked 2 miles home, drove my DD to my friend's parts store, back to the house. This coil is an Accel 140011. Its advertised specs are:

Primary Resistance 0.300 ohms
Maximum Voltage 48,000 V
Turns Ratio 134:1
Secondary Resistance 8.8K ohms

My gut says replace it as well... what do you guys think?

fleetmgr

Based on your measurements it sounds like it's shorted.

shbox

His is actually "less shorted" than a stock coil.

OP: The winding continuity test is more for making sure there are no obvious opens in the coil. It is not a definitive test to prove a coil good or bad. Various manufacturers will have varying resistances for their coils. Coils resistance can also change when they get hot/during operation. Try another coil and see what happens, if that is where you gut is leading you.

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

I did get a temporary one to use (5526 streetfire since it was cheap and available locally, buddy didn't have the Delco in stock). Installing it I found the 'real' problem. A broken pin on the black half of the connector... far enough in the coil I didn't see it until I really looked. I crossed my fingers since I didn't have a wiring diagram to show me what I was missing on the roadside. It fired and ran. I counted my stars and parked it. Off to LKQ in the morning to grab the pigtail from an LT1 B body I saw there week before last. Hope it's still there.

Pico Wire makes both of the halves. Black half is 5632PT, Grey half is 5633PT. Only saw a couple places carrying them online, only wanted $2.95 each. Nook & Tranny has the grey one only and wants $20.00 for it.

Thanks to both of you for taking the time to help me out. Looking forward to how it'll run with that fixed.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, how I felt when I quit drinking Wild Turkey...

If it ever helps anybody searching, part numbers for the pigtails are as follows:

Pico Wiring 5632pt = 12101896 = Delco pt166 (grey one)

Pico Wiring 5633pt = 88860464 = Delco pt1909 (black one)

Rain kept me out of the boneyard today, so trying again for connectors tomorrow.

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

Have to correct my own bad info based on a false assumption:

Only 3 of the 4 coil body holes are used on a 93-95 V8 F car. What I saw looking like a broken off pin in the coil is in fact a hole that never had anything inserted into it, hence the appearance that it was blocked by a broken off pin. Unwrapping the tube/ tape around my coil pigtails, I discovered only 3 wires. Well, I have an extra pair of pigtails from a 94 Fleetwood now. They use all 4 connectors. Looks like 96-97 cars only use 2 of the 4 connectors if I'm reading the diagram right.

Had a good time in the boneyard and got a cherry condition Opti vacuum harness while I was at it. Looked like this Caddy was a garage queen that got totalled a week after it got a tune up.

I still feel dumb. Can I get a facepalm?

BTW, it still runs a lot better with a Delco ICM and lower resistance coil. Now looking at fuel pressure as a companion culprit to my mild driveability symptoms. Not sure I did the fuel filter when I changed out the pump. Can I get a double facepalm?