Electric Water Pump 101
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From: fort walton beach,fl
Electric Water Pump 101 on my 93 what is involved in modding a pump to be electric? Also.. is it necessary to get into the timing cover and remove gear and shaft or can i mod pump and remove pump to shaft sleeve and be ok? i want to avoid getting into pulling hub and timing cover is what I'm getting @ i don't wana screw with that unless its absolutly required...sugggestions on wiring it in? csr pump on ebay what i want?
thanks guy's!
thanks guy's!
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From: fort walton beach,fl
ok...but that didnt really answer one of my questions....is the timing/water pump gear removal required? if it doesnt reach without the sleeve why must you delete it to do the electric pump mod? isnt that aspect of the conversion unnecessary?
You have to take the internals of the pump out to get an EWP to fit on. And then you have to plug the hole. Leaving the bearing open on the timing cover is ghetto, take the time and do it right.
IMO, the water pump drive should be removed. When it is engaged to the pump, it keeps the drive secure. Without the coupler the gear is free to spin and vibrate with no load isolation. I know some people have left it in there, but I wouldn't trust it. It's just one more piece that can go bad. Mine came right out when I converted.
Also, if you go with a CSR pump, you need to grind four small tabs out of the pump housing. This requires a Dremel or other small grinding tool.
Also, if you go with a CSR pump, you need to grind four small tabs out of the pump housing. This requires a Dremel or other small grinding tool.
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From: fort walton beach,fl
IMO, the water pump drive should be removed. When it is engaged to the pump, it keeps the drive secure. Without the coupler the gear is free to spin and vibrate with no load isolation. I know some people have left it in there, but I wouldn't trust it. It's just one more piece that can go bad. Mine came right out when I converted.
Also, if you go with a CSR pump, you need to grind four small tabs out of the pump housing. This requires a Dremel or other small grinding tool.
Also, if you go with a CSR pump, you need to grind four small tabs out of the pump housing. This requires a Dremel or other small grinding tool.
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stop being lazy, do the mod right or don't do it at all. When it comes to cars if you half *** it, it wont work right. Take the timing cover off and remove the gear, be careful of the oil pan gasket.
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I didn't do anything with my timing cover when I swapped to an electric pump a few weeks back......just figured the drive pin had it sealed up with the factory set-up so why bother plugging it?? Looks like I may have been wrong. Now I'm not sure if I want to tear back into everything (risking getting the opti wet is one reason) or just leave it alone. I guess if I leave it and something fails.....that would be a good excuse to do cam (and heads?)
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From: fort walton beach,fl
what exactly do i need,and need to do top the pump to make it electric...and does anyone have any solid gains from it?...like...better throttle response? quicker revs? a few extra horses with proof?
uhh well first you need a electric waterpump, new is around $350sh. if you search you will find you pick up a good amount of hp in the high end. as its less load on the top end.
EWP's are way over rated. You can get more power for your money and have a more reliable setup with the stocker.
That's JUST my opinion though. Take it however you will. I run the stocker and could probably make 10 more hp on the dyno with an electric, but mine is reliable. Almost every one of my friends with an EWP has had problems with them, no matter the brand. Wire comes loose and overheats your car, etc.
It only takes one mistake with an EWP to destroy an expensive engine, or at the minimum warp heads / blow head gaskets.
Not worth it to me.
Some people have no issues at all though. Just make sure you do a good job wiring it up, use a relay, weather sealed connectors, etc. And wire up a status LED as well so you know if it is working or not.
That's JUST my opinion though. Take it however you will. I run the stocker and could probably make 10 more hp on the dyno with an electric, but mine is reliable. Almost every one of my friends with an EWP has had problems with them, no matter the brand. Wire comes loose and overheats your car, etc.
It only takes one mistake with an EWP to destroy an expensive engine, or at the minimum warp heads / blow head gaskets.
Not worth it to me.
Some people have no issues at all though. Just make sure you do a good job wiring it up, use a relay, weather sealed connectors, etc. And wire up a status LED as well so you know if it is working or not.
Last edited by gregrob; Jun 2, 2010 at 07:13 PM.
IMO, the water pump drive should be removed. When it is engaged to the pump, it keeps the drive secure. Without the coupler the gear is free to spin and vibrate with no load isolation. I know some people have left it in there, but I wouldn't trust it. It's just one more piece that can go bad. Mine came right out when I converted.
Also, if you go with a CSR pump, you need to grind four small tabs out of the pump housing. This requires a Dremel or other small grinding tool.
Also, if you go with a CSR pump, you need to grind four small tabs out of the pump housing. This requires a Dremel or other small grinding tool.
On The Tree
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From: Catoosa Ok
i love mine had some problems with it at first bc the guy that wired it up (2 wires) just twisted the wires together and i didn't know it so my car overheated, but now i have it soldered up and never had a problem with it since, but i would put a led light on it so you know its working for sure, and i have my EWP wired up to come on when the key is turned forward so its on all the time.
On The Tree
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i've been running a CSR for a long while but it finally took a dive the other day. I purchased a Meziere heavy duty. but i see the motor is a lot bigger than the CSR and looks like i'm going to have to trim back the fan shroud. anyone ever installed the heavy duty pump on a camaro? i heard it's easier on the impala's and such. Just wanted to get some info from someone that's installed one
Sean
Sean
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EWP's are way over rated. You can get more power for your money and have a more reliable setup with the stocker.
That's JUST my opinion though. Take it however you will. I run the stocker and could probably make 10 more hp on the dyno with an electric, but mine is reliable. Almost every one of my friends with an EWP has had problems with them, no matter the brand. Water comes loose and overheats your car, etc.
It only takes one mistake with an EWP to destroy an expensive engine, or at the minimum warp heads / blow head gaskets.
Not worth it to me.
Some people have no issues at all though. Just make sure you do a good job wiring it up, use a relay, weather sealed connectors, etc. And wire up a status LED as well so you know if it is working or not.
That's JUST my opinion though. Take it however you will. I run the stocker and could probably make 10 more hp on the dyno with an electric, but mine is reliable. Almost every one of my friends with an EWP has had problems with them, no matter the brand. Water comes loose and overheats your car, etc.
It only takes one mistake with an EWP to destroy an expensive engine, or at the minimum warp heads / blow head gaskets.
Not worth it to me.
Some people have no issues at all though. Just make sure you do a good job wiring it up, use a relay, weather sealed connectors, etc. And wire up a status LED as well so you know if it is working or not.
I have been running the same Mez HD on my car (MY daily driver) since march 2006..
I've besided my daily commute I've gone on road trips IE 500-1500 mile long high speed blasts...
So if you wire it properly and maintain your car an EWP should be NO PROBLEM....
But once again I went with an EWP IOT use a double roller timing set up. I did not feel that the single row chain would hold up over the long haul with my aggressive driving style....and 6900+rpm shifts.....
Mike
Last edited by aboatguy; Jun 2, 2010 at 07:12 PM.