Does anyone know how to use mr gasket rocker arm oil deflectors for rocker adj
06-13-2010, 10:03 PM
#22
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Let me restate this....I get the lifters adjusted closely, with the car running quietly, FULLY warmed up, so ALL parts have "heat expanded" as much as they are going to. I then back off the adjusting nut (I use poly-locks) until I hear the lifter start to "click" a little. I then SLOWLY turn the nut down JUST UNTIL the clicking stops, and snug the locking screw. I do this to ALL 16 of the lifters. Then I shut the engine off, go back and put a small dot of paint on the poly lock nut at the "12 o'clock" position, just for reference, then add whatever preload I want...1/8 turn, 1/4 turn, etc.
It's really quite simple, even though the extended cowl of a 4th gen F-body makes it a little awkward on the back 4 cylinders, and I've been doing it this way for close to 40 years........
It's really quite simple, even though the extended cowl of a 4th gen F-body makes it a little awkward on the back 4 cylinders, and I've been doing it this way for close to 40 years........
06-14-2010, 06:23 AM
#24
At that point, I added another 1/4 turn, which quieted it down somewhat, let it run and fully warm up, then set them as I've described above.
06-14-2010, 08:02 AM
#25
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In those instances, I have resorted to the "spin the pushrod" or the "up and down" with the pushrod method. However, at least in my experience, it doesn't get you where you need to be. I installed a different set of lifters in my car a couple of months ago. The intake was off, so I could look at the plunger of the lifter, and see when it showed a hint of movement, then add a 1/4 turn of preload. Even so, when I started it up, it was noisy as all hell.
At that point, I added another 1/4 turn, which quieted it down somewhat, let it run and fully warm up, then set them as I've described above.
At that point, I added another 1/4 turn, which quieted it down somewhat, let it run and fully warm up, then set them as I've described above.
you could also factor in the heat expansion of the engine. can change your lash .005-.020" or so between cold and hot.
06-14-2010, 10:40 AM
#27
I really don't understand why people have so much trouble adjusting their rockers. I did mine when I did the h/c install by the spin the pushrod method and haven't touched the valvetrain since. I did 1/2 turn preload on ls7 lifters IIRC and it pulls to the 7k limiter without any issues.
06-14-2010, 05:48 PM
#29
Well, I'd have to look back at the satck of oil filter boxtops in my glove compartment, with the oil change date/mileage written on them to get an exact date, but I had my 875Rs in for either 6 or 7 years, and probably 10-12,000 miles. I took me a while to prefect their adjustment, but once I got them there, they worked OK. However, since I heard the "scare stories" about them blowing apart, and since I hardly twist the motor, and since even when properly adjusted, they are a little noisy, I decided to remove them. I was taking the intake manifold off, as it was due for it's "3-4 year gasket/RTV change", it made the decision to swap the lifters a lot easier....
Maybe I can sell the lifters.....
Maybe I can sell the lifters.....
06-14-2010, 05:51 PM
#30
I realize that 1/4 turn wasn't enough, however that was just for a starting point, so I could get the engine fired up. I actually consideded using a dial indicator directly on the lifter plunger, but I didn't have the correct extension to be able to reach down to the lifter from the head, and my magnetic stand just wouldn't stick well enough to the valley of the block....
06-14-2010, 08:46 PM
#31
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Good luck with that. I have a set I bought just because of the retarded pictures I saw where people were blaming the lifters when you could plainly see how pushrods walked off the lifters and beat the retainer clips to ****. Ran them w/ my GM847 cam for 10K miles. No problems. Still have them. Look as good as new.
06-15-2010, 06:15 AM
#32
Good luck with that. I have a set I bought just because of the retarded pictures I saw where people were blaming the lifters when you could plainly see how pushrods walked off the lifters and beat the retainer clips to ****. Ran them w/ my GM847 cam for 10K miles. No problems. Still have them. Look as good as new.
I know what you mean. People were talking about them "flying apart". If the lifter is reasonably well adjusted, the pushrod is firmly held in place by the lifter's plunger, and the rocker arm's seat, therefore holding everything place. How could anything fly apart, under "normal" circumstances, of course.
06-15-2010, 08:12 AM
#33
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if you adjust them to 1/8 turn or whatever, it may become 0 lash/preload once the engine gets warmed up. i can see why so many people have problems with the comps.
06-15-2010, 10:10 AM
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I realize that 1/4 turn wasn't enough, however that was just for a starting point, so I could get the engine fired up. I actually consideded using a dial indicator directly on the lifter plunger, but I didn't have the correct extension to be able to reach down to the lifter from the head, and my magnetic stand just wouldn't stick well enough to the valley of the block....
I sent mine (using the IC/EO method) with the engine on the stand, button everything up and install the engine in the car. Then with only enough running time to set the timing (on engines that require that), and change the oil/filter head straight to the nearest roadway or starting line.
Is it the result of lack of reading comprehension? Lack of understanding what's trying to be accomplished? Reading too many differing views? All of the above,???
As you can tell by now, there are several different ways to adjust lifter preload. Now if you take every way known to modern man and list them in the order of their priority (From least error prone/accurate/most often recommended by cam companies, credible engine builders, magazine editors, etc., TO the most difficult, etc.), you'll find that the Intake Closing/Exhaust Opening method will be at the top of the list and using a dial indicator at the very bottom.
Even Pro Stock racers use the IC/EO method - it's just instead of setting preload they set lash (clearance). Finding true Zero lash remains the same.
I recommend you do yourself a BIG favor and skip resorting to the use of a dial indicator. That procedure is Way Over The Top and is a perfect example of over-thinking an issue. By the time you finish using that procedure you'll probably wish you'd never seen a hydraulic cam.
Just my view.
Jake
06-15-2010, 11:14 AM
#35
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I, too, wonder why so many have so many problems in setting lifter preload and end up aggravating over it so much. Seems that everyday, on one Forum or another, someone posts about setting preload problems.
I sent mine (using the IC/EO method) with the engine on the stand, button everything up and install the engine in the car. Then with only enough running time to set the timing (on engines that require that), and change the oil/filter head straight to the nearest roadway or starting line.
Is it the result of lack of reading comprehension? Lack of understanding what's trying to be accomplished? Reading too many differing views? All of the above,???
As you can tell by now, there are several different ways to adjust lifter preload. Now if you take every way known to modern man and list them in the order of their priority (From least error prone/accurate/most often recommended by cam companies, credible engine builders, magazine editors, etc., TO the most difficult, etc.), you'll find that the Intake Closing/Exhaust Opening method will be at the top of the list and using a dial indicator at the very bottom.
Even Pro Stock racers use the IC/EO method - it's just instead of setting preload they set lash (clearance). Finding true Zero lash remains the same.
I recommend you do yourself a BIG favor and skip resorting to the use of a dial indicator. That procedure is Way Over The Top and is a perfect example of over-thinking an issue. By the time you finish using that procedure you'll probably wish you'd never seen a hydraulic cam.
Just my view.
Jake
I sent mine (using the IC/EO method) with the engine on the stand, button everything up and install the engine in the car. Then with only enough running time to set the timing (on engines that require that), and change the oil/filter head straight to the nearest roadway or starting line.
Is it the result of lack of reading comprehension? Lack of understanding what's trying to be accomplished? Reading too many differing views? All of the above,???
As you can tell by now, there are several different ways to adjust lifter preload. Now if you take every way known to modern man and list them in the order of their priority (From least error prone/accurate/most often recommended by cam companies, credible engine builders, magazine editors, etc., TO the most difficult, etc.), you'll find that the Intake Closing/Exhaust Opening method will be at the top of the list and using a dial indicator at the very bottom.
Even Pro Stock racers use the IC/EO method - it's just instead of setting preload they set lash (clearance). Finding true Zero lash remains the same.
I recommend you do yourself a BIG favor and skip resorting to the use of a dial indicator. That procedure is Way Over The Top and is a perfect example of over-thinking an issue. By the time you finish using that procedure you'll probably wish you'd never seen a hydraulic cam.
Just my view.
Jake
06-15-2010, 05:59 PM
#36
not sure if im reading you right or not, but the dial indicator is not a means of locating the base circle of the cam (such as ic/eo method). the dial indicator is used to tell you how much the plunger is going down in the lifter. that way you can be certain how much preload there actually is.
Whenever I hear people refer to the IC/EO menthod, they're referring to the setting of solid lifter cams. I think most of the discussion here, if not all of it, is concerning hydraulic lifter cams.
06-15-2010, 07:13 PM
#37
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once your on the base circle you will do one of the following:
solid cam- use feeler gages to set lash according to the cam card.
hydro cam- run polylock down to zero lash, then add your 1/2 turn or however much preload that is required for a given lifter. if you have the exact specs, you could then use a dial indicator to put it right on the money. if it takes 3/4 turn to get you there, then thats what youll need to use on all the other rockers. (3/4 turn)
