Does anyone know how to use mr gasket rocker arm oil deflectors for rocker adj
06-10-2010, 08:22 PM
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Does anyone know how to use mr gasket rocker arm oil deflectors for rocker adj Hi, im trying to adjust my 1.6ratio compcams rocker arms to stop the clattering they are making. I bought a set of mr gasket rocker arm clip oil deflectors and i dont understand how they are supposed to clip on. Has anyone used these? i need to adjust the rocker arms while the car is running.
heres a pic of my rocker arms -
heres a pic of my rocker arms -
06-10-2010, 08:44 PM
#3
Probably wont work on those rockers. They are much thicker than a stamped steel rocker arm. You really don't need them anyways. Your car WILL NOT shoot oil across the room like you might think it will. At an idle it will just dribble oil. An easy way to do it is to do one side at a time, and to slightly jack up the car on that side so the oil can't pour over the side of the cylinder head and onto the headers. It should only take you 2-3 minutes to do one side anyways.
06-11-2010, 06:40 PM
#7
The usual method is to set them with the engine running. Loosen the adjusting nut until the lifter "clatters, then tighten the nut slowly until the clatter stops. (this is assuming you have hydraulic lifters) Then turn the nut another half a turn. That's what you refer to as the "sound" method, a method that's been employed since the 50s.
However, if that method doesn't appeal to you, then the clips you bought won't do a damned thing for you, as they're desiged to deflect the oil while you're adjusting the valves, while the engine is running, and you're listening for the lifters to clatter, so you can then turn them down a half turn....(see "SOUND METHOD" above)
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06-11-2010, 07:05 PM
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The usual method is to set them with the engine running. Loosen the adjusting nut until the lifter "clatters, then tighten the nut slowly until the clatter stops. (this is assuming you have hydraulic lifters) Then turn the nut another half a turn. That's what you refer to as the "sound" method, a method that's been employed since the 50s.
06-12-2010, 09:40 AM
#10
Looks like your pushrods are too long,and you should be using guide plates with the nsa rockers.Cutting up a stock valve cover is a good idea.You can also use a piece of cardboard to stop the oil from getting on the headers.But I would not do anything until you fix the geometry.I would get rid of the lock nuts and replace them with poly locks also,as the lock nuts tend to loosen the more you mess with them
06-12-2010, 10:37 AM
#12
LMAO, you guys can adjust them without the engine running and avoid all of this mess. Turn the motor over by hand 5/8" socket and breaker bar. When you see one valve fully open, you can adjust the other for that cylinder. You spin the pushrod in your fingers and slowly tighten the rocker. The instant you can't turn the pushrod anymore that is zero lash. Then you tighten it to whatever theory or manual you follow tells you to do so. Me personally I tighten them a little less than 1/8th of a turn. Some guys go 3/4 of a turn which is simply pushing down on the plunger on the lifter. You can get into all sorts of trouble spinning high rpm like that. I used to have a card that told you what cylinders you could adjust based on the timing position but you can do it my method, it will just take a few more spins of the motor.
06-12-2010, 05:04 PM
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LMAO, you guys can adjust them without the engine running and avoid all of this mess. Turn the motor over by hand 5/8" socket and breaker bar. When you see one valve fully open, you can adjust the other for that cylinder. You spin the pushrod in your fingers and slowly tighten the rocker. The instant you can't turn the pushrod anymore that is zero lash. Then you tighten it to whatever theory or manual you follow tells you to do so. Me personally I tighten them a little less than 1/8th of a turn. Some guys go 3/4 of a turn which is simply pushing down on the plunger on the lifter. You can get into all sorts of trouble spinning high rpm like that. I used to have a card that told you what cylinders you could adjust based on the timing position but you can do it my method, it will just take a few more spins of the motor.
The latest recommendation is not to continue to use the twisting the pushrod method but, instead, to use an UP and DOWN movement of the pushrod to determine ZERO lash. Even CompCams is now recommending the UP and DOWN method.
Lastly, the minimum preload adjustment (less than 1/2 turn) that some continue to advocate goes back well over 40 years which was when I first learned of it. Now, even Crane says not to go that route. Here's what Crane says:
"Lifter preload settings of .004-.010? have been recommended for years (by many aftermarket cam companies including Crane) for maximum effort applications with flat tappet hydraulic valve trains, but extensive testing at Crane Cams R&D Department has proven conclusively that hydraulic roller lifter valvetrains operate best with .050-.080? of lifter preload. These is no sacrifice of low-end power, and the power holds on beyond the power peak much more noticeably. We have expressed this in previous newsletters, and several magazine editors and independent tuners have corroborated our findings. It is our opinion that improper (inadequate) lifter preload is one of the major causes of valve spring failure (regardless of manufacturer and spring design)."
Of course, all this is just for informational purposes; feel free to continue to do as you please.
Jake
06-12-2010, 06:26 PM
#15
The usual method is to set them with the engine running. Loosen the adjusting nut until the lifter "clatters, then tighten the nut slowly until the clatter stops. (this is assuming you have hydraulic lifters) Then turn the nut another half a turn. That's what you refer to as the "sound" method, a method that's been employed since the 50s.
However, if that method doesn't appeal to you, then the clips you bought won't do a damned thing for you, as they're desiged to deflect the oil while you're adjusting the valves, while the engine is running, and you're listening for the lifters to clatter, so you can then turn them down a half turn....(see "SOUND METHOD" above)
However, if that method doesn't appeal to you, then the clips you bought won't do a damned thing for you, as they're desiged to deflect the oil while you're adjusting the valves, while the engine is running, and you're listening for the lifters to clatter, so you can then turn them down a half turn....(see "SOUND METHOD" above)
Just a couple of differing points: The formerly recommended way is to twist the pushrod (once Zero lash has been located) is until SLIGHT RESISTANCE is felt, not until the pushrod can't be turned anymore. This is a mistake some make by not understanding that.
The latest recommendation is not to continue to use the twisting the pushrod method but, instead, to use an UP and DOWN movement of the pushrod to determine ZERO lash. Even CompCams is now recommending the UP and DOWN method.
Lastly, the minimum preload adjustment (less than 1/2 turn) that some continue to advocate goes back well over 40 years which was when I first learned of it. Now, even Crane says not to go that route. Here's what Crane says:
"Lifter preload settings of .004-.010? have been recommended for years (by many aftermarket cam companies including Crane) for maximum effort applications with flat tappet hydraulic valve trains, but extensive testing at Crane Cams R&D Department has proven conclusively that hydraulic roller lifter valvetrains operate best with .050-.080? of lifter preload. These is no sacrifice of low-end power, and the power holds on beyond the power peak much more noticeably. We have expressed this in previous newsletters, and several magazine editors and independent tuners have corroborated our findings. It is our opinion that improper (inadequate) lifter preload is one of the major causes of valve spring failure (regardless of manufacturer and spring design)."
Of course, all this is just for informational purposes; feel free to continue to do as you please.
Jake
The latest recommendation is not to continue to use the twisting the pushrod method but, instead, to use an UP and DOWN movement of the pushrod to determine ZERO lash. Even CompCams is now recommending the UP and DOWN method.
Lastly, the minimum preload adjustment (less than 1/2 turn) that some continue to advocate goes back well over 40 years which was when I first learned of it. Now, even Crane says not to go that route. Here's what Crane says:
"Lifter preload settings of .004-.010? have been recommended for years (by many aftermarket cam companies including Crane) for maximum effort applications with flat tappet hydraulic valve trains, but extensive testing at Crane Cams R&D Department has proven conclusively that hydraulic roller lifter valvetrains operate best with .050-.080? of lifter preload. These is no sacrifice of low-end power, and the power holds on beyond the power peak much more noticeably. We have expressed this in previous newsletters, and several magazine editors and independent tuners have corroborated our findings. It is our opinion that improper (inadequate) lifter preload is one of the major causes of valve spring failure (regardless of manufacturer and spring design)."
Of course, all this is just for informational purposes; feel free to continue to do as you please.
Jake
06-12-2010, 06:43 PM
#16
That is how I do it and personally find it the easiest. I have tried them all so whatever you prefer to do OP. BTW props to you leadfoot, a couple years ago I had a thread where my valvetrain was ticking like a **** and you really helped me out, has been flawless since.
I do this as well. I went to a junkyard and snagged a valve cover off a Caprice. I gutted the internals so it would work with my rockers and it keeps the oil from burning your arms and smoking off the headers.
Very interesting. I have been recommended by very reputable people to put on about a 1/16" = 1/8" turn preload with my application. I have been using an 1/8" turn now successfully for a couple years. One day I will have to do some back to back testing at the track, thanks for posting.
I do this as well. I went to a junkyard and snagged a valve cover off a Caprice. I gutted the internals so it would work with my rockers and it keeps the oil from burning your arms and smoking off the headers.
Very interesting. I have been recommended by very reputable people to put on about a 1/16" = 1/8" turn preload with my application. I have been using an 1/8" turn now successfully for a couple years. One day I will have to do some back to back testing at the track, thanks for posting.
06-12-2010, 10:49 PM
#17
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IMO, you really don't need deflectors if the car is just idling there to adjust the rockers. Unless you rev the engine, no oil really shoots out of the oiling holes on the rockers.
I have my rockers set at 1/4 turn past and they are pretty quiet. The guy that did my adjustment also said that there is no reason to run a ton of preload either.
I have my rockers set at 1/4 turn past and they are pretty quiet. The guy that did my adjustment also said that there is no reason to run a ton of preload either.
06-13-2010, 06:15 PM
#19
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i dont see how you guys find it easier to adjust rockers with the engine running. how much preload are you REALLY putting on them? its just an unnecessary mess...
06-13-2010, 06:34 PM
#20
Let me restate this....I get the lifters adjusted closely, with the car running quietly, FULLY warmed up, so ALL parts have "heat expanded" as much as they are going to. I then back off the adjusting nut (I use poly-locks) until I hear the lifter start to "click" a little. I then SLOWLY turn the nut down JUST UNTIL the clicking stops, and snug the locking screw. I do this to ALL 16 of the lifters. Then I shut the engine off, go back and put a small dot of paint on the poly lock nut at the "12 o'clock" position, just for reference, then add whatever preload I want...1/8 turn, 1/4 turn, etc.
It's really quite simple, even though the extended cowl of a 4th gen F-body makes it a little awkward on the back 4 cylinders, and I've been doing it this way for close to 40 years........