Well I am slowly climbing to the top of my bolt-on list with CAI, and exhaust done, also had a new opti put in not to long ago. My next step is some Lpp headers/ory. This car takes me to school, work, and out all over Houston with no problem at 140,000 miles ticking on.

My question to you guys is how would you set-up your DD?

All input appreciated

 

Throw on an electric water pump, underdrive pullies and a good tune. That should be a fun daily. My friend has pretty much what I stated plus intake and exhaust (and an accel 300+ box) and the car is a LOT of fun to drive. Is your car auto or standard? If it's auto, get a higher stall lockup converter.

 

See sig. Power + handling + braking = win. And its very tolerable with the 2otl and it still gets 25+ mpg on the highway cruising at 85+.

 

It's an auto. Well the plan is now to get the headers and ory installed, then after that hmmmm I was thinking about the whole LE route getting a decent cam/heads, but that would be next April (income tax ). Ill look into the undrive pulley suggestion and do some research.

I just got a new waterpump put in it =(

 

Oh, I didn't know you wanted to really tear into her and do heads/cam. In that case yeah, go with LE or AI and with proper installation it should be tons of fun!

 

Yeah figured I might as well since she's already at 140k start replacing some organs

 

Mild cam with a good set of heads and nothing too crazy on the stall or gears is what I would go with for a true daily driver. Should be capable of high 11's with near perfect driveability in a full weight car.

 

I would start to save for a rebuild with 140k on it. IDK how many miles you put on in a yr but you already said you drive it to work, school, etc.

Build a mild 355, stock crank & rods(w/ARP bolts), decent forged pistons and whatever LE topend you can afford.

For now finish up the bolt ons, get a small stall, that will really wake things up

 

This is good advice. Even if you want to wait to perform the rebuild until the current motor goes, have the money set aside so that when the day comes, you are ready to go.

 

My exact plan for the next few years is:

WS6 hood/ram air box
Elliot Portworks LE2 Port and Polished Stock GM heads
Elliot Portworks Ported Stock intake manifold
Elliot Portworks Custom Ground Cam
Yank SS3600 Stall, B&M Tranny Cooler
GM 3.42 Gears
Strano Suspension
Walboro/Racetronix Fuel Pump and bigger injectors
Dyno-Tuned, hopefully @ speed inc.
Drag Radials out back with Z rated tires up front

From the research I've done this setup should be very streetable, fairly comperable to factory fuel economy (mid-lower 20's), and should cut 11's in the 1/4 mile with a full interior, stereo, AC, PS, ect. Stock bottom end, and when the hood is popped, you won't be able to tell it from a stock motor for the most part.

 

I love the top end power of my cc306, but I miss the low end of the stock cam. So if I had the funds and could do it over again, I would do a forged rod/piston and stock crank 355 with a good set of heads, a good torque cam, and a front mount turbo. Get the best of both worlds, the bottom end and the top end As soon as I finish school and pay all of my accumulated college debts off, my first project will be this motor.

If I was building on a budget again, I would probably got LE1 on a stock bottom end. Very driveable and will make close to 400 rwhp. I love my 306, but the older I keep getting, the less and less I like to daily drive that car.

Another route I should have gone was nitrous. I ran a 150 shot on my full bolt on 130k mile car for quite a while, the car was quite a bit faster than it is with the 306 cam, and completely driveable with the stock cam. I should have kept it that way. Plus nitrous is a LOT of fun, and a 125 shot is very reliable as long as you set it up correctly, and make sure it doesn't detonate and gets plenty of fuel.

 

Do a brake upgrade. You can go either with the LS1 caliper, rotor and spindle upgrade and then later step up to the corvette caliper and rotor with an adapter plate or go after market big right off the bat.
With 140k I would recomend freshining up the bottom end of that engine before you do heads and cam. Nothing crazzy just have the block checked out and mic it out, fresh bore and hone and have the crank and rods sized for bearings, then either do a re-ring on the pistons or change the pistons and rings to work with the heads and cam better.

 

suspension, brakes, then heads and cam. in that order and you will not regret it.

 

C5 brakes, weld in subframe connectors, anti sway bars, torque arm, panhard bar

CAI/LS1 Lid, LT headers, catback, gears, stall (if your auto)

If your starving for more power then a mild cam with some stock ported headers will be more then enough. id tear down the engine tho to make sure its 100% before putting a cam in. might be worth rebuilding

 

leave it stock till you have a good job and a DD!!!!!!!!!! Its never ending once you start!!

 

sooo soooo true

 

+1!!!

 

Full bolt ons. No supercharger, nitrous, turbo, etc.

 

Ive got a good job being a senior pharmacy tech working part time and sometimes 40+ hours (college).

Ill keep go through my bolt on list with the Headers being the next thing. I think I need some new brake rotors car feels funny when im braking, and I just changed the brake pads a week ago. (any suggestions on nice shiny rotors?)

 

I'd get cross drilled and slotted.