LPP - To Coat or Not to Coat?
LPP - To Coat or Not to Coat? Guys,
I have finally decided I am going with the LPP headers, question is has anyone had them Jett Hott coated (ceramic)? I know they are stainless and don't need it but looking to too keep the temps down. What do you think and is it really worth it?
BTW - Not real happy with Carl's customer service over at LPP as it takes the guy over a week to reply to an email and only after you send him several followup emails requesting a response. Hope the cheaper price makes up for this pain.
I have finally decided I am going with the LPP headers, question is has anyone had them Jett Hott coated (ceramic)? I know they are stainless and don't need it but looking to too keep the temps down. What do you think and is it really worth it?
BTW - Not real happy with Carl's customer service over at LPP as it takes the guy over a week to reply to an email and only after you send him several followup emails requesting a response. Hope the cheaper price makes up for this pain.
I did not coat mine. I kind of like the natural heat markings on the stainless and there is no issue with under hood temps. My number 8 primary is 1/4 inch away from the fan box and there is no issue there.
If your looking for power gains, look elsewhere. The gains vs. money spent is going to make you sick to your stomach IMHO untill someone can actually document them.
The stainless is going to last forever. Coating them to me, is a complete waste of money that can be used for better things.
Also IMHO, I can deal with crappy support to save the bucks that are being saved with this product over the Kooks. I can also deal with some minor fitment issues to. In the end you do get what you pay for but once the bugs are worked out, life is good. Carl has always quickly responded to my notes plus back when I bought mine a year ago or so, he even left me his cell phone number to contact him with questions prior to purchasing. Maybe he is just backed up.
Still no regrets with the product and that even takes into account that I paid more for mine then, than they cost now.
If your looking for power gains, look elsewhere. The gains vs. money spent is going to make you sick to your stomach IMHO untill someone can actually document them.
The stainless is going to last forever. Coating them to me, is a complete waste of money that can be used for better things.
Also IMHO, I can deal with crappy support to save the bucks that are being saved with this product over the Kooks. I can also deal with some minor fitment issues to. In the end you do get what you pay for but once the bugs are worked out, life is good. Carl has always quickly responded to my notes plus back when I bought mine a year ago or so, he even left me his cell phone number to contact him with questions prior to purchasing. Maybe he is just backed up.
Still no regrets with the product and that even takes into account that I paid more for mine then, than they cost now.
Didn't coat mine. I would save the $$$. By the looks of your car it looks to be in "show quality" condition. With that said, you will probably have to modify a few things to get the LPP's to fit. Grind the knuckle, passenger side has fitment issues against the wall and you might have to hammer it back a bit, possibly grind the K-Member. So I'm not sure if you want to do this. Plus I have heard so much negative feedback about their customer service lately that I would maybe consider saving the extra few bucks up and going with Kooks and calling it a day. Never a fitment issue and their customer service it stellar. Just my .2
I did not grind my knuckle. That just seems dangerous to me depedning how much you grind. I shifted my column over first. The separted the steering shaft shaft where it telescopes, shortened it then welded it. This simply changes the operating angle of the steering shaft, made it a tad more straight. I had a detailed write up on the big *** LPP thread that the mods killed.
This gave me plenty of clearance without having to grind the knuckle. I had to do this with my AS&M headers too.
This gave me plenty of clearance without having to grind the knuckle. I had to do this with my AS&M headers too.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 92
Likes: 1
From: Chattanooga, TN.
I had coated Hookers before my uncoated Kooks. Engine bay temps are much higher with the uncoated headers. I guess it is a matter of preference but I don't like the look of uncoated stainless once they turn from the heat. I have my engine out right now and sent my headers to be coated.
I have LPP's and I wish I had coated them. I do not care for the look after heat and they are very spotty.
They look as if something splashed or dripped on them, but my car is spotless so I'm not sure why they look this way. I have seen stainless turn colors, but not stained like appearance like this.
otherwise great header especially for the money
They look as if something splashed or dripped on them, but my car is spotless so I'm not sure why they look this way. I have seen stainless turn colors, but not stained like appearance like this.
otherwise great header especially for the money
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Thats a little cheaper than what they quoted me years ago for my AS&M mid tubes and y. They wanted $400+ IIRC.
Maybe someone can do some testing (before/after) to see what the under hood temperature differences really are.
Maybe someone can do some testing (before/after) to see what the under hood temperature differences really are.
Jett Hott quoted me $285 for the coating of just the two headers and $34 for the shipping. I'm still wavering on weather or not to go this route. Is there any other coating outfits I should contact or get quotes from?
Hey:
Jett hot is not the only option either, there is other/better companies that do ceramic coating. Heany Industries of Scottsville, NY, Heanium coating is fantastic. It just use to come in funny colors Wht, Yellow, and a Light Grn. They may have more colors and options now and I would contact them to see what they can do for you. It use to get used on a lot on pro race teams a lot more than people think. But they got back logged due to their aerospace and industrial apps, and I don't even know if they do automotive apps anymore. I feel if you have got the cash, the $300 USD is way less than the amount you would have spent on Kooks uncoated LTs, it just a shame to cover up that nice polished finish. But the polished finish does not last very long, till it turns funky brownish at the y and on the bends of the pipes, then all over. Looks wise you can get the stainless re-polished if its for a show car, but not after you get it coated.
I would just get the best coating I could find, and look for a bright Silver or Chrome look, with the highest temp rating they have, as it will burn off after a while and then it looks like crap, and no longer offers the same degree of heat containment, as when new. This was a problem with coated PS LTs, but they weren't Stainless and rusted underneath, maybe with LPPs this won't happen.
Dub
Jett hot is not the only option either, there is other/better companies that do ceramic coating. Heany Industries of Scottsville, NY, Heanium coating is fantastic. It just use to come in funny colors Wht, Yellow, and a Light Grn. They may have more colors and options now and I would contact them to see what they can do for you. It use to get used on a lot on pro race teams a lot more than people think. But they got back logged due to their aerospace and industrial apps, and I don't even know if they do automotive apps anymore. I feel if you have got the cash, the $300 USD is way less than the amount you would have spent on Kooks uncoated LTs, it just a shame to cover up that nice polished finish. But the polished finish does not last very long, till it turns funky brownish at the y and on the bends of the pipes, then all over. Looks wise you can get the stainless re-polished if its for a show car, but not after you get it coated.
I would just get the best coating I could find, and look for a bright Silver or Chrome look, with the highest temp rating they have, as it will burn off after a while and then it looks like crap, and no longer offers the same degree of heat containment, as when new. This was a problem with coated PS LTs, but they weren't Stainless and rusted underneath, maybe with LPPs this won't happen.
Dub
Last edited by 1993 z28 f1; Jul 15, 2010 at 12:59 PM.
I wish I had done mine. Once the new motor goes in Ill prob end up getting them done. They dont look bad but they dont look brand new either. No matter what they are still some of the nicest headers for the money IMO. As far as Kooks goes I believe their stepped headers have most the same fitment issues but cost double, I havnt heard of any fitment issues with Kooks non stepped headers.
So IMO if you got the cash get them coated.
So IMO if you got the cash get them coated.
Hey:
AChotrod, you can always get them repolished after they have been heat cycled they last a lot longer the next time if done right, and look great for quite awhile. Check out my garage, more pics and I got one of the very first LPP sets and had them repolished after they were on for a year and they still looked great, quite a few months later.
Dub
AChotrod, you can always get them repolished after they have been heat cycled they last a lot longer the next time if done right, and look great for quite awhile. Check out my garage, more pics and I got one of the very first LPP sets and had them repolished after they were on for a year and they still looked great, quite a few months later.
Dub