SO i hear all these horror stories about people switching from regular oil to synthetic oil having leak problems with LT1s...is this true? Do you have to Flush your engine before switching from regular to synthetic??? Sorry if this is a repost.

 

Anyone???

 

Ive never had that problem of oil leaks whether it be regular oil or synthetic. Ive had my car for 6 yrs since I was 17 and no problem with leaks.

 

A really good synthetic MAY show that you had dirt waiting to become a leak, as they usually have higher detergency and will remove said dirt. It will not "create" a leak in an otherwise well sealed engine.
Flushing is always a good idea, though seldom done. Not from the standpoint of the oils being incompatible, but from a dirt removal perspective.

 

If you can, I would flush it. I didnt have the means when I transferred to synthetic but I didnt have any problems.

 

no... just put it in

 

conventional oil builds up sludge behind the seals, witch actually keep the seals from leaking. You change from conventional to synthetic and the synthetic cleans the sludge and causes leaks. It's actually pretty common. I did this in my jeep and got some bad leaks lol. I had to go back to conventional oil and some motor honey to get it to stop leaking.

 

Well thanks for the info...im not worried about sludge...my motors got only 1700 miles on it

 

run another 1300 miles to make it 3k miles, then switch to penzoil ultra or plaitum.

 

No need to flush it. I used conventional to break my motor in for the first 1500 miles or so then switched to 0W-30 Syntec with no issues

 

If your seal starts leaking from a switch to synthetic, then the seal was bad to begin with and needs to be replaced. They don't seal because there is sludge behind them, the sludge is masking a bad seal.

 

Yeah that was my point, maby you didn't understand.

 

OP you will be fine. That problem with leaks surfaces in very high mileage vehicles of all kinds. We deal with it all the time. Generally cars with over 80K that suddenly upgrade to synthetic will leak/seep because the added detergents remove the sludge and if the pan seal is bad, you get a leak. Just stick with a good 30 weight synthetic, 0, 5 or 10W will work and change it regularly.

 

when I made the switch I developed a very small rear main leak, but its hardly a problem,

 

Good god no. Just go right ahead. And feel free to switch back and forth if you need. I'm not an "oil is oil" guy at all. I'm picky as hell, but as far as your question goes, all oils are designed to be compatible with one another.

Good luck

 

I switched to rp 10W30 after I got my car, and the only leaks I had was around the drain plug and the oil level sensor (which was bad and broken up), got a new seal for the drain plug and a new sensor, and no more leaks. Also motor has 171k on it.

 

What these guys said^

If it starts leaking, you had a problem that needed to be fixed anyway.

 

I switch all the vehicles i purchase to synthetic regardless of mileage, haven't had a problem arise from it.

 

You can change to synthetic right now if you want to. The whole "Switched to synthetic now my seals leak" is mainly common with high mile cars. There is synthetic for high mile vehicles and have add packs for seals. NOW i recomend you Castrol Syntec 0-30 European Formula, because its a true synthetic oil unlike Mobile 1 and others. You can catch an Autozone special for 26.99 5 quarts of European Formula 0-30 and Mobile one or K$N oil filter. Purolator Pure one, Wix, and Napa gold are among the oil filters i recomend too. By the way if you look at the oil data sheets for royal purple 5-30, 10-30, and Castrol euro formula 0-30, castrol 0-30 is thicker than both at cold temp and thicker at operating temp....

 

I bet you he knows about good oils.