headers for my lt1
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On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2009
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headers for my lt1 i have a 6 speed 1996 firebird formula with an slp loudmouth 1 cat back and an intake, i want to buy pacesetter ceramic coated long tube headers race style and get rid of the cats. what are the horsepower and torque gains that i could expect? are headers worth the price for the performance gains?
I just bought a set of the Ebay stainless steel headers and ypipe for $310 shipped. They came in 3 days and they look really nice. I hope to install them this week and I will post up what fitment issues I find.
in all honesty there nothing but a pain in the ***. i wish i had gone with mids or stock with the stock manifolds.
10 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2007
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I have pacesetter ceramic coated on my black car, and they are getting crusty looking. They've been on the car for 4 years+. I have Hooker ceramic coated on my blue car and they have been on longer (5+ years) and they look 10x better. The pacesetters are all rusted at the welds at the flange, and they look like an eyesore. They started this at the year#2 mark. My next set will be Kooks stainless, but they are $$$$$$$.
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i have a set of them just installed them yesterday. they hit the passenger side body. they hit the k member they hit the steering shaft at the top and the y pipe hits the body on the driver side body reinforcement.
in all honesty there nothing but a pain in the ***. i wish i had gone with mids or stock with the stock manifolds.
in all honesty there nothing but a pain in the ***. i wish i had gone with mids or stock with the stock manifolds.
I knew they would have some fitment issues before i ordered but grinding or banging here or there does not bother me. LS1 Tech Stories
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i noticed today there hitting the passenger side bad really bad. im about to pull them off and put the manifolds back on. there hitting right behind the strut tower
Are your motor mounts in good shape? From what i have read every set fits a little different. Sorry it sounds like you got a bad one. Any pictures to show what you are dealing with? On the drivers side did you move the column over as far as it would go?
the mounts were in good shape. i think if i put new motor mounts in i would actually be in worse shape becuase id be hitting the floor boards then.
Hey:
The motor mounts do more than raise it up.
They also correct the angle that you get after so much movement and wear with lots of miles and age.How many miles on your car? If at the 85-100,000 mile range you probably need them. Also unless you take the mounts apart you can't really tell how worn they are.This helps with the body and K member contact.
Another thing you have to slot the steering column mounting holes toward the passenger side to change the articulation angle of the steering shaft if just loosening the bolts did not help it enough, this should give you the room needed around the headers and shaft.
The number 8 header making contact with the body requires dimpling the area till the contact is large enough to clear. The areas listed are all normal contact ares with close body fitting headers
Dub
Adam1203: yah i did. move it over as far as it will go. it just lightly touches so i have to grind the corners off the steering shaft if i leave them on.
the mounts were in good shape. i think if i put new motor mounts in i would actually be in worse shape becuase id be hitting the floor boards then.
the mounts were in good shape. i think if i put new motor mounts in i would actually be in worse shape becuase id be hitting the floor boards then.
The motor mounts do more than raise it up.
They also correct the angle that you get after so much movement and wear with lots of miles and age.How many miles on your car? If at the 85-100,000 mile range you probably need them. Also unless you take the mounts apart you can't really tell how worn they are.This helps with the body and K member contact.
Another thing you have to slot the steering column mounting holes toward the passenger side to change the articulation angle of the steering shaft if just loosening the bolts did not help it enough, this should give you the room needed around the headers and shaft.
The number 8 header making contact with the body requires dimpling the area till the contact is large enough to clear. The areas listed are all normal contact ares with close body fitting headers
Dub
Last edited by 1993 z28 f1; Jul 26, 2010 at 04:40 AM.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2010
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Install Headers I just got a set of stainless steel long tubes, the ones off ebay for $310 too. And I was wondering what is the best way to put them in, Im installing a cam, roller rockers and new springs too so there is a lot of space but not really to put them in and someone told me to loosen the motor mounts and lift the motor up while its still attached to the trans in the car and they will slip in, so is that the right way? I also didnt realize how much adjusting Ill have to do too to get them to fit...this week will be fun.
hey some one point out if my header rub the passenger side ? it go like this, some time it making noise, rubbing or knocking while idle ? I thouhg my header need a tight.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY, Dalton GA, Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
If you can afford it, get some stainless headers. I would even consider the cheap stainless alternatives over a mild steel header.
Hey:
Kyle has good picks of his install and the fix. Post #43 gives the details
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...r-install.html
Dub
94redz28: "Can you post a picture of where they rub at on the passenger side? I want to clearance that area while i have the heads off and have more room."
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...r-install.html
Dub
Last edited by 1993 z28 f1; Jul 26, 2010 at 01:29 PM. Reason: Added info on link
Man, this thread is really making me think twice about buying these stanless steel ebay headers. Usually i run into some sort of problem whenever i work on anything in the car. I can only imagine how much of a PITA these will be.
