lpp header install issues? need advice.
lpp header install issues? need advice. The header on the driver side goes in with out really a problem, But the issue is that the number 1 primary tube is SO close to the steering shaft that I wil not be able to put back on the steering coupler. I dinged the header tube but damn its so close that I will have beat it up more than I want too. Also im thinking of grinding the steering shaft to allow more clearance but anyone else have this issue or what? Thoughts,advice, concerns much appreciated. Thanks and lmk asap please. 
The header on the driver side goes in with out really a problem, But the issue is that the number 1 primary tube is SO close to the steering shaft that I wil not be able to put back on the steering coupler. I dinged the header tube but damn its so close that I will have beat it up more than I want too. Also im thinking of grinding the steering shaft to allow more clearance but anyone else have this issue or what? Thoughts,advice, concerns much appreciated. Thanks and lmk asap please.
Yup , thats what me & my bro did also since it was my idea to go buy a grinder and get er done ...........
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Mine have been going pretty smooth so far. The friend that is helping me had to hammer on the frame a little bit on the passenger side, and will have to grind some on the K member yet, but all in all I think it is going allright. The steering knuckle hasn't been addressed to know if it is in the way yet though.
Even the 2nd batch has issues. They still hit the steering column or come very close depending on car. Cylinder 3 you can run a normal oil filter and cyl 8 hits the frame and/or heater box if you have them.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,745
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From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY, Dalton GA, Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 18
From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY, Dalton GA, Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
Has anyone confirmed that there are actually differences between the first & second batch? For that matter, there seem to be variances within the same batch.
Any mild steel header is going to rust if it's not coated. That is why you get them or have them coated. PaceSetters are very good headers an actually probably the most common header installed by guys on here. I'm still toying between the PaceSetters and LPPs on my application as here in Houston we don't have the roads/winter as up north and Ceramic coating will last a lifetime. Esp, since this car is a garage queen and only see's rain by accident. LPP's support sucks as it takes them forever to respond to emails and when they do they are pretty short with you. Also, the fitment issues from header to header and car to car worry me a bit as PaceSetter has been around so much longer that they have ironed out most of their problems and most of the time PaceSetters just drop in on installs in our cars from what I've seen compaired to LPP. However, the stainless is very tempting as well as the price and the stepped design. Still don't know what route to go but hopefully will make my mind up soon.
Correct, so will fenders on your car eventually. If they are properly maintained and kept in an environment without salt they will last a very very long time. My ceramic coated JBA's (now on the car) are over 14 years old and are in very good condition with only small rust spots at the collectors.
Hey:
I wish I had pictures of my Coated Pacesetters when I lived in South Florida.
They rusted bad down there, and it didn't help I moved up north for stowage, while I was overseas, before coming to NC. About that coating, It burns off, and that is when they start to rust. My car was on post with only a car port, and that may have had a lot to do with it. but it was covered and had a good car cover as well, I have had more than one car with headers, quite a few really and that is the only set (PS) that has ever rusted that bad. The one thing about stainless is you can re-polish it back to better than new. Heck before I even considered another set of PS headers I would go with the Ebay stainless knock offs, and deal with any of its issues first, at least they still won't rust.
Dub
I wish I had pictures of my Coated Pacesetters when I lived in South Florida.
They rusted bad down there, and it didn't help I moved up north for stowage, while I was overseas, before coming to NC. About that coating, It burns off, and that is when they start to rust. My car was on post with only a car port, and that may have had a lot to do with it. but it was covered and had a good car cover as well, I have had more than one car with headers, quite a few really and that is the only set (PS) that has ever rusted that bad. The one thing about stainless is you can re-polish it back to better than new. Heck before I even considered another set of PS headers I would go with the Ebay stainless knock offs, and deal with any of its issues first, at least they still won't rust.
Dub
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 18
From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY, Dalton GA, Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
In my opinion, ceramic coating only delays the inevitable with regards to mild steel headers. If you don't want rusted headers, stainless is the only true alternative. Get the stainless headers coated if you want to squeeze every bit of performance upside out of them. Personally, I would rather get stainless and have to address minor fitment issues as opposed to mild steel, but I'm very anti-rust. I effing hate it, which makes Michigan a terrible place to live in that regard.
FWIW my 7 year old jethots still have the coating and are rust free, and I live by the ocean. I don't understand how people think these fitment issues are acceptable.