quick question about roller rockers
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
quick question about roller rockers Hi,
Does anyone know if these roller rockers
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LT1-V...ts_Accessories
will work with these valve covers?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-Ch...ts_Accessories
Thanks,
Darian
Does anyone know if these roller rockers
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LT1-V...ts_Accessories
will work with these valve covers?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-Ch...ts_Accessories
Thanks,
Darian
Hey:
Not sure if that combo will work together, depends what car the covers are going on. But why go with 3/8" rockers? Get 7/16" rockers with ARP 7/16" studs. A little less deflection, and more stout setup, for a around the same money.
Dub
Not sure if that combo will work together, depends what car the covers are going on. But why go with 3/8" rockers? Get 7/16" rockers with ARP 7/16" studs. A little less deflection, and more stout setup, for a around the same money.
Dub
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
This is for a custom project. I'm swapping an LT1 into a 1984 Jaguar, XJ6.
Thanks,
Darian
Hey:
On the valve covers depends on where the Alternator is being mounted, F body syle requires the valve cover to have a notch, for the Alt, Vette acc brackets do not need this. A custom setup you can relocate the Alt and use the F body acc brackets, then the A/C is usually the problem and needs relocated. Vette brackets, tend to be more friendly for some swaps. Just keep that in mind.
The 3/8" SA would work, and Yes I know people use them but why take a chance on a fatigue failure at a later date. IMHO The 7/16" ARP studs offer a stronger, more durable, and reliable setup, for just forty-sixty dollars more. You don't want to cheap out on a roller valve train setup. Or just leave it stock.
3/8" roller rockers add stress to studs not meant for them. I also do not like SA roller rockers. Go with NSA rockers with ARP studs, trickflow guideplates and hardened pushrods, and it will all fit under a centerbolt valve cover and be more reliable plus give options for a higher performance cam later on.
For example from Jegs:
pro series: http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/234-72...oductId=744892
hi performance: http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/100-71...oductId=744892
And the roller rockers cost about the same wether 3/8 or 7/16" so why not go 7/16" and be done with it.
And use something like this. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sbc-S...ts_Accessories
Dub
On the valve covers depends on where the Alternator is being mounted, F body syle requires the valve cover to have a notch, for the Alt, Vette acc brackets do not need this. A custom setup you can relocate the Alt and use the F body acc brackets, then the A/C is usually the problem and needs relocated. Vette brackets, tend to be more friendly for some swaps. Just keep that in mind.
The 3/8" SA would work, and Yes I know people use them but why take a chance on a fatigue failure at a later date. IMHO The 7/16" ARP studs offer a stronger, more durable, and reliable setup, for just forty-sixty dollars more. You don't want to cheap out on a roller valve train setup. Or just leave it stock.
3/8" roller rockers add stress to studs not meant for them. I also do not like SA roller rockers. Go with NSA rockers with ARP studs, trickflow guideplates and hardened pushrods, and it will all fit under a centerbolt valve cover and be more reliable plus give options for a higher performance cam later on.
For example from Jegs:
pro series: http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/234-72...oductId=744892
hi performance: http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/100-71...oductId=744892
And the roller rockers cost about the same wether 3/8 or 7/16" so why not go 7/16" and be done with it.
And use something like this. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sbc-S...ts_Accessories
Dub
Last edited by 1993 z28 f1; Aug 11, 2010 at 12:09 PM. Reason: added new link
Hey:
As long as they are alloy heads from a Vette, Firebird or Camaro they all have 7/16" holes in the heads. With 3/8" tops for the rockers 7/16" bottom shank studs. The ARP studs are just 7/16" on both ends.
Impalla, Caprice, Roadmaster, Cadillac, and Oldsmobiles all used the heavier cast Iron heads that have 3/8" pressed in studs and need machined/tapped to accept screw in studs.
Dub
As long as they are alloy heads from a Vette, Firebird or Camaro they all have 7/16" holes in the heads. With 3/8" tops for the rockers 7/16" bottom shank studs. The ARP studs are just 7/16" on both ends.
Impalla, Caprice, Roadmaster, Cadillac, and Oldsmobiles all used the heavier cast Iron heads that have 3/8" pressed in studs and need machined/tapped to accept screw in studs.
Dub
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Hey:
As long as they are alloy heads from a Vette, Firebird or Camaro they all have 7/16" holes in the heads. With 3/8" tops for the rockers 7/16" bottom shank studs. The ARP studs are just 7/16" on both ends.
Impalla, Caprice, Roadmaster, Cadillac, and Oldsmobiles all used the heavier cast Iron heads that have 3/8" pressed in studs and need machined/tapped to accept screw in studs.
Dub
As long as they are alloy heads from a Vette, Firebird or Camaro they all have 7/16" holes in the heads. With 3/8" tops for the rockers 7/16" bottom shank studs. The ARP studs are just 7/16" on both ends.
Impalla, Caprice, Roadmaster, Cadillac, and Oldsmobiles all used the heavier cast Iron heads that have 3/8" pressed in studs and need machined/tapped to accept screw in studs.
Dub
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 11
From: centerville, ohio
Original studs use the 1.6 s/a promags and the Proform 141-130 covers, a little grinding is needed on the alt to make them fit, very simple. Been there done that.
Hey:
I had a Blk 84 Jag XJ12 with a 350 TPI engine in it. It was a great conversion better than the 12 from Jag any day.
I am sure you have, but in case you haven't check out Jags That Run, they have lots of info about this conversion. And a good manual on prep and installation. Good luck with your build.
Dub
I had a Blk 84 Jag XJ12 with a 350 TPI engine in it. It was a great conversion better than the 12 from Jag any day.
I am sure you have, but in case you haven't check out Jags That Run, they have lots of info about this conversion. And a good manual on prep and installation. Good luck with your build.
Dub
Last edited by 1993 z28 f1; Aug 11, 2010 at 03:14 PM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, TX
Hey:
As long as they are alloy heads from a Vette, Firebird or Camaro they all have 7/16" holes in the heads. With 3/8" tops for the rockers 7/16" bottom shank studs. The ARP studs are just 7/16" on both ends.
Impalla, Caprice, Roadmaster, Cadillac, and Oldsmobiles all used the heavier cast Iron heads that have 3/8" pressed in studs and need machined/tapped to accept screw in studs.
Dub
As long as they are alloy heads from a Vette, Firebird or Camaro they all have 7/16" holes in the heads. With 3/8" tops for the rockers 7/16" bottom shank studs. The ARP studs are just 7/16" on both ends.
Impalla, Caprice, Roadmaster, Cadillac, and Oldsmobiles all used the heavier cast Iron heads that have 3/8" pressed in studs and need machined/tapped to accept screw in studs.
Dub
I'm told that iron headed engines also have a different cam that would work better for my setup. My car weighs about 4,000 pounds, which is why I'm only going for a mild street build up.
Hey:
I had a Blk 84 Jag XJ12 with a 350 TPI engine in it. It was a great conversion better than the 12 from Jag any day.
I am sure you have, but in case you haven't check out Jags That Run, they have lots of info about this conversion. And a good manual on prep and installation. Good luck with your build.
Dub
I had a Blk 84 Jag XJ12 with a 350 TPI engine in it. It was a great conversion better than the 12 from Jag any day.
I am sure you have, but in case you haven't check out Jags That Run, they have lots of info about this conversion. And a good manual on prep and installation. Good luck with your build.
Dub
I want a comfortable daily driver.
Thanks to all who replied.
