My LTX Shootout Thread
08-20-2010, 08:12 PM
#21
My brakes are stock all the way around. I know i'm losing a little ET with them dragging the way they are. I just don't know of a quick fix to get them to separate. Have you heard of the spring trick before?
08-20-2010, 08:38 PM
#24
Now, do I think that I could make it run as good as the kids stock internals car? Probably! If you read that thread you will see that we changed the lifters, springs, and a few other things like injectors to run the times that we do. The problem that I have found with the LT1's that I buy is that they are usually in poor condition. Lot's of sludge, etc.
I would consider swapping in a motor if you have one.
The thing that you have to understand about the motor in Gump is that it is not a stock motor. It is an LT1 blueprinted to NHRA Stock specs. I have always done my best to give an insite into this stuff on this forum. Who else would publish the photos that I have? This is the first time that this motor has been open since the Shootout last year! It's really hard to put a price on it because I do a lot of my own stuff. Really good machine work is expensive. You could probably get a good Stocker motor from Jeff Warren for $8,500.00. I don't have anywhere near that in this motor!
Sorry that I had to go to IM before replying, but you can see that I have an obvious problem in this section!
Take Care,
Daren
08-20-2010, 08:51 PM
#26
08-20-2010, 10:00 PM
#27
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Its at Beech Bend Raceway in Bowling Green, KY. Wish I could make it down there (spectator only, my LT1 is not track worthy at this point), I'm only an hour away, but I've got to work that weekend.
08-20-2010, 10:33 PM
#29
No way!
Now, do I think that I could make it run as good as the kids stock internals car? Probably! If you read that thread you will see that we changed the lifters, springs, and a few other things like injectors to run the times that we do. The problem that I have found with the LT1's that I buy is that they are usually in poor condition. Lot's of sludge, etc.
I would consider swapping in a motor if you have one.
The thing that you have to understand about the motor in Gump is that it is not a stock motor. It is an LT1 blueprinted to NHRA Stock specs. I have always done my best to give an insite into this stuff on this forum. Who else would publish the photos that I have? This is the first time that this motor has been open since the Shootout last year! It's really hard to put a price on it because I do a lot of my own stuff. Really good machine work is expensive. You could probably get a good Stocker motor from Jeff Warren for $8,500.00. I don't have anywhere near that in this motor!
Sorry that I had to go to IM before replying, but you can see that I have an obvious problem in this section!
Take Care,
Daren
Now, do I think that I could make it run as good as the kids stock internals car? Probably! If you read that thread you will see that we changed the lifters, springs, and a few other things like injectors to run the times that we do. The problem that I have found with the LT1's that I buy is that they are usually in poor condition. Lot's of sludge, etc.
I would consider swapping in a motor if you have one.
The thing that you have to understand about the motor in Gump is that it is not a stock motor. It is an LT1 blueprinted to NHRA Stock specs. I have always done my best to give an insite into this stuff on this forum. Who else would publish the photos that I have? This is the first time that this motor has been open since the Shootout last year! It's really hard to put a price on it because I do a lot of my own stuff. Really good machine work is expensive. You could probably get a good Stocker motor from Jeff Warren for $8,500.00. I don't have anywhere near that in this motor!
Sorry that I had to go to IM before replying, but you can see that I have an obvious problem in this section!
Take Care,
Daren
08-20-2010, 11:23 PM
#30
Seriously guys, if you are wasting time thinking about the engine you're going the wrong way. The car's raceweight, suspension, and amount everything is dialed in is the amazing part!!!
No matter how much duration you give an engines cam it's not making **** for power with stock lift and 210 cfm heads...more then anything its just moving the peak farther up to make use of insane stall and gearing.
Jealousy is a weak emotion.
**edit** Sorry for taking a **** in your thread Gizmo.
08-20-2010, 11:45 PM
#32
The one I replaced was the driver side. I'm not saying that it's locked up or anything, but with the wheels off of the ground if you spin the wheel hard, it will only spin for maybe a few inches then it grinds to a halt. Sounds like a winter project for me, investing a lot into the brakes.
08-20-2010, 11:52 PM
#33
there's 2 tenths in a "good" hone. there's amost a tenth in that 4 qts of water thin oil. bullshit on the cam and "210 cfm" heads not making power... its worth over 100hp compared to factory parts. im on my phone (no life) otherwise i'd list more "little stuff" that makes power. He said before it makes 40x rwhp and thats probably though a 5500+ converter that is made for a quick 330' not mph up top.
08-21-2010, 04:22 AM
#34
The kids motor made 295 RWHP and this one made 402 RWHP, so you can see that there is a big difference. In a Stock Eliminator car it's all about the first sixty feet. There is a lot to be gained in the little things and a much of it is hard to notice on a dyno. But, as stated above, if you are looking all in one place you really won't find any magic (just lot's and lot's of experimenting to find out what works).
OK, time to go racing!
OK, time to go racing!
08-21-2010, 05:09 AM
#35
check your brake line..some end up loosing the draging problem once they go to a steal braided line do to the rubber hose collasping..also work yoir cylinder back an forth to make sure its not sticking..check wheel bearings also..if its only a drag car you can use vasaline instead of wheel bearing grease..its a old trick,if read about people just using wd40 also but i dont know about that..
08-21-2010, 06:33 AM
#36
Village Troll 
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Exactly. Lots of things can be done to a rotating assembly to reduce parasitic loss and increase power output. Not to mention the little allowed niceties that can be done to the cylinder heads which I'm sure won't be disclosed since they are being sold off as stock heads. 
I'm still curious as to what the engine cost to build since it's being played down to a mere budget motor.
I'm still curious as to what the engine cost to build since it's being played down to a mere budget motor.
08-21-2010, 11:35 AM
#37
there's 2 tenths in a "good" hone. there's amost a tenth in that 4 qts of water thin oil. bullshit on the cam and "210 cfm" heads not making power... its worth over 100hp compared to factory parts. im on my phone (no life) otherwise i'd list more "little stuff" that makes power. He said before it makes 40x rwhp and thats probably though a 5500+ converter that is made for a quick 330' not mph up top.
402rwhp with a massive duration cam is NOT a lot, its the setup that makes it ET like it does. I wouldn't be surprised if the cam had a 270* intake duration and 104LSA. 400rwhp doesn't sound like much now does it? We have cars doing that with 230* cams. You would expect a hell of a lot more power then that to run what it does.
Look at how many low 12/high 11 second 400+rwhp cars there are. Not naming any names.
Putting multiple buslengths on cars with similar power is not impressive?
Give that car a real cam with some lift and big heads like AFRs and viola, we have a new NA record. ****, if he was close by I would lend him my top end just out of curiosity to see what it would pick up after a retune.
08-21-2010, 01:46 PM
#38
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it's funny how we are always coming together last minute for this event
I will be testing tomorrow which makes it my second time to the track all year.
good luck getting the car together and see you soon at the shootout, but just a heads up that I am bringing nothing for you NA this year
I will be testing tomorrow which makes it my second time to the track all year.
good luck getting the car together and see you soon at the shootout, but just a heads up that I am bringing nothing for you NA this year
08-21-2010, 04:40 PM
#39
the cam is probably 25x/26x on a 105 or so, and it'd probably be bigger/tighter if they had more PTV. put that cam on a stock lonblock lt1 and it'll make 50-60 hp less. how is that NOT something to look at? in one of these effecient cars thats probably 5 tenths!
