LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Valve Cover Woes...Need Help!

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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 03:18 PM
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Default Valve Cover Woes...Need Help!

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I have Canton valve covers on my LT1, AFR heads, 1.6 rockers. Both of them leaked upon initial installation (used fel-pro multilayer cork) so I removed them both and used right-stuff to seal them up. I thought they were good until...dyno day.
Dripping oil while on the dyno, right from the back outside corner on the driver's side. I figured, no big deal, i'll fix it when I get home. So, I pulled the cover and separated the cork layers while I was at it. I went and got rubber gaskets, used right stuff on both sides of the gasket, and STILL LEAKING. This time, oil is dripping directly onto my header collector, causing FIRE.
So, I'm sick of this BS. I've installed them every which way possible, torqued them properly and in the right order, not torqued them at all (just went tight) and every other option you can think of. I'm in the middle of getting a return authorization for them.
Anyone have suggestions for other valve covers? Anything that doesn't leak without failure? I'm considering C4 vette valve covers, as they already clear 1.6 rockers without modification, and have a more favorable fastener setup than stock valve covers (studs in heads for good alignment).
Please help me out! This is the only thing keeping me from driving my car. I haven't gotten to drive it at all since it was tuned, and it's putting down 650 RWHP. Thanks
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by qc97z
All-

I have Canton valve covers on my LT1, AFR heads, 1.6 rockers. Both of them leaked upon initial installation (used fel-pro multilayer cork) so I removed them both and used right-stuff to seal them up. I thought they were good until...dyno day.
Dripping oil while on the dyno, right from the back outside corner on the driver's side. I figured, no big deal, i'll fix it when I get home. So, I pulled the cover and separated the cork layers while I was at it. I went and got rubber gaskets, used right stuff on both sides of the gasket, and STILL LEAKING. This time, oil is dripping directly onto my header collector, causing FIRE.
So, I'm sick of this BS. I've installed them every which way possible, torqued them properly and in the right order, not torqued them at all (just went tight) and every other option you can think of. I'm in the middle of getting a return authorization for them.
Anyone have suggestions for other valve covers? Anything that doesn't leak without failure? I'm considering C4 vette valve covers, as they already clear 1.6 rockers without modification, and have a more favorable fastener setup than stock valve covers (studs in heads for good alignment).
Please help me out! This is the only thing keeping me from driving my car. I haven't gotten to drive it at all since it was tuned, and it's putting down 650 RWHP. Thanks
Aluminum valve covers, aluminum heads? Weld those bitches on! And weld the intake Vin Diesel style while you're at it.

Seriously... I'd check them for flatness and holes maybe?
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 03:45 PM
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Are you sure it's not coming from the rear of the intake manifold? LT1's love to leak there.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 03:46 PM
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I'm not checking them. I'm pretty confident its not flat. The manufacturing process used to make fabbed sheet metal valve covers isn't very consistent and quality control sucks. Looking for different options now.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by qc97z
I'm not checking them. I'm pretty confident its not flat. The manufacturing process used to make fabbed sheet metal valve covers isn't very consistent and quality control sucks. Looking for different options now.
Um you've tried gasket and rtv type stuff plus gasket. I doubt there's anything easy you can still try at this point.

This essentially amounts to checking them (and more) but maybe get a machine shop to get them flat?

IDK though, hopefully someone has a good idea.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowmaro95Z28
Are you sure it's not coming from the rear of the intake manifold? LT1's love to leak there.
Yeah, I'm sure. Its a fresh motor, and I can see where its seeping at.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 04:10 PM
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They sound like they might no be flat across.. I would say check out the measurement at various points with a ruler..
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 04:22 PM
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Also take a look at the VC rail sealing surface on the head, my AFR heads needed a little clearancing for my vc to seal properly.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 04:26 PM
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ditch the silly centerbolt **** and run standard perimeter bolt style since you have afr heads. what kinda evac system are you using? either get the canton's machined back flat or buy new ones... about your only two choices.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Wicked94Z
ditch the silly centerbolt **** and run standard perimeter bolt style since you have afr heads. what kinda evac system are you using? either get the canton's machined back flat or buy new ones... about your only two choices.
I'd love to ditch the silly centerbolt ****. I even had Canton quote me a custom set of perimeter bolt with alternator notch when I started my build, but I wasn't interested for $400.
I can't do perimeter bolt, because I'm using the stock alternator location, and retained my A/C.

I don't have anything on my valve covers...a breather and fill cap on the passenger's side, nothing on the driver's side.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by WS Sick
Also take a look at the VC rail sealing surface on the head, my AFR heads needed a little clearancing for my vc to seal properly.
Can you explain a bit more?
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 05:34 PM
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I have blue rubber gaskets on my cantons and they have never leaked a drop...

I dunno maybe the jig they used was not quite right with yours..

Go to ebay and type in SBC center bolt and a ton of valve covers come up...


Matt
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MattSapp95_T/A

Go to ebay and type in SBC center bolt and a ton of valve covers come up...

Matt
As I've said before, I have my alternator in the stock location. Center bolt SBC valve covers won't work for me. They have to be LT1 specific to clear the alternator.

I'm looking for the blue fel-pro rubber/steel gaskets. Is the part number VS 50088R?
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by qc97z
Can you explain a bit more?
Around the corners of the Valvecover rail ON THE HEAD, my set of AFRs was very thick here and actually interfered with the valvecover, I set a gasket on it and trimmed the head using the gasket as a template , I also blended it down to match the rest of the side of the head.

When i first bought these heads I just slapped the valvecovers on and assumed all was good, but my block was allways wet around the back and on the rear sides with oil. When i had the engine on an engine stand is when i noticed that the valve covers where not all the way down flush.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by qc97z
As I've said before, I have my alternator in the stock location. Center bolt SBC valve covers won't work for me. They have to be LT1 specific to clear the alternator.

I'm looking for the blue fel-pro rubber/steel gaskets. Is the part number VS 50088R?
I run 141-131 Proforms, tall - black. 141-130 for polished. They fit good and are GM licenced. I have reused the plain ol rubber gasket 4 or 5 times. This is on the stock LT1 head. There is "minimal grinding" on the alt to make them fit. Takes all of 15 minutes.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by lt1-xjs
I run 141-131 Proforms, tall - black. 141-130 for polished. They fit good and are GM licenced. I have reused the plain ol rubber gasket 4 or 5 times. This is on the stock LT1 head. There is "minimal grinding" on the alt to make them fit. Takes all of 15 minutes.
So you're saying that any perimeter bolt SBC valve covers can fit with alternator grinding? The stock brackets for the alternator still wouldn't fit, IMO. I'm talking about the black round-stock bracket that attaches to a stud on the intake manifold and to the back of the alternator.
EDIT: My bad. I was searching for the wrong proform valve covers. Those look almost identical to the Vette composite covers (in design). Do you have any pics or description on where to clearance the alternator, and how much? Throwing a bunch of metal shavings/dust around a device with vents and big magnets in it doesn't sound very intelligent.

Last edited by qc97z; Sep 2, 2010 at 12:47 PM.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 10:43 AM
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Lets see what these covers you fighting with look like? I like to use Indian head on the valve cover side of old school stuff to keep it from leaking. You normally don't get a leak on the head side of the gasket as its a machined surface and totally flat most oil leaks from on top the gasket
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by WYATT318MOPAR
Lets see what these covers you fighting with look like? I like to use Indian head on the valve cover side of old school stuff to keep it from leaking. You normally don't get a leak on the head side of the gasket as its a machined surface and totally flat most oil leaks from on top the gasket
It's leaking from the valve cover side. I've used sealants on both sides to stop the leak. Didn't work.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 10:55 AM
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Clean it all up and give this a shot its $1.00 a bottle and people that know about it use it on everything
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 12:35 PM
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Thanks for the ideas, but I know the valve covers I have are having problems. I've tried 2 different gaskets, several different ways to install them, right stuff compund, etc.
I know my driver's side valve cover is having issues. There's several folks out there with Canton valve cover leak issues, and several folks that don't. It's the nature of the manufacturing process; there's not enough consistency to be confident that the process is in control. They came to me with several grinding marks on the rails, so i know they're flattening out high spots manually, probably causing low spots by doing so. The only right thing to do in their case is to jig up every valve cover and run through a CNC mill to ensure flatness.
Plus, I called Canton the other day, and they are more than happy to authorize a return for a full refund for them. I told them that they leak, and it was the only thing preventing me from driving the car after it had just been dyno'd. That's a pretty clear indication that they know they have leaking issues.
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