Need Advice: Oil in Radiator :-(
#21
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When i changed my head and head gasket on the passenger side I torqued it down with 3 passes going up to 65 ft. lbs according to the haynes manual. But when I read on the internet everyone was telling me to do 125 ft.lbs(or somewhere around there i forgot the exact number). What torque specs am I supposed to use? The car ran "okay" with no head gasket leak, but did have an oil leak due from not being correctly sealed at the rear of the intake manifold, it was also missfiring. occassionally the car overheated( i did not let it get past the 3rd tick) but i figured it was due to not properly bleeding the radiator system so i just kept filling it up with coolant thinking the airpockets would soon bleed out by me filling everytime with the car running and bleeder valve open, and i ran like this for maybe less than a month. then the other day i opened the radiator cap and found "chocolate milk".
you only did the passenger side?? how do you know the driver side isnt bad?
#23
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When I first bought the car the owner before me stripped the spark plug hole going into the head on cyl #8(stupid cause it's the easiest one to get to) so i found out the hard way cause it shot straight out and took the threads with it lol. so i bought a set of stock heads and threw on the passenger side temporarily cause i also have a set of ported heads that i'm going to throw in along with a cam, Roller Rockers, Isky .550 springs, longtubes, egr/air delete, etc, etc. I just need the car to pass smog right now lol that's why i just did the passenger side.
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it not that hard to read the info that comes with the head bolt, stock torque spec is 65 ft lbs, 3 passes, if you are using ARP head bolt go 75 ft. lbs. in 3 steps 25 ft. lbs on every bolt for the cylinder head on that bank, then go 50 ft. lbs again to every bolt on that cylinder head bank, then finally 75 ft. lbs. make sure your torque spec is locked in on your torque wrench, also make sure it is calibrated for accurate torque rating