Going to refresh my motor, need some advice
09-08-2010, 10:04 AM
#1
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Going to refresh my motor, need some advice Hey guys,
I did some searching on the site, but most builds are 355 or 383. I just want to refresh my block, give it new life.
I have two options: One is having my spare block cleaned and honed (it has some surface rust on the cylinder walls) and build it up with my rotating assembly and other engine parts. Option Two is having my block honed and installing new rings (are oversized rings available for this motor? where can i get them?)
I'm leaning toward refreshing the block i have in the car. I'm planning on buying a new bolt kit for it (probably from arp including rod bolts), i need new lifters and valve springs, and i need to clean up the runners on the intake and heads a bit...probably do that myself instead of taking it to a shop. I'm also planning on picking up a new oil pump (just a standard one, not HV). I just did cam bearings on it a bit ago, but why not do them again right? Do any of you have links to how to measure clearances for main bearings to make sure i get the right ones?
Big question: Can i do a very light hone myself? I'm working on a budget here, not trying to build for more power, just want to freshen the motor up so it will last for a loooong time. the block in the car has some very light scoring, but i'll need to finish pulling the motor to really check it...do you think it's possible to fix the scoring with a light hone, and get away with new rings?
Thanks guys!
Ethan
I did some searching on the site, but most builds are 355 or 383. I just want to refresh my block, give it new life.
I have two options: One is having my spare block cleaned and honed (it has some surface rust on the cylinder walls) and build it up with my rotating assembly and other engine parts. Option Two is having my block honed and installing new rings (are oversized rings available for this motor? where can i get them?)
I'm leaning toward refreshing the block i have in the car. I'm planning on buying a new bolt kit for it (probably from arp including rod bolts), i need new lifters and valve springs, and i need to clean up the runners on the intake and heads a bit...probably do that myself instead of taking it to a shop. I'm also planning on picking up a new oil pump (just a standard one, not HV). I just did cam bearings on it a bit ago, but why not do them again right? Do any of you have links to how to measure clearances for main bearings to make sure i get the right ones?
Big question: Can i do a very light hone myself? I'm working on a budget here, not trying to build for more power, just want to freshen the motor up so it will last for a loooong time. the block in the car has some very light scoring, but i'll need to finish pulling the motor to really check it...do you think it's possible to fix the scoring with a light hone, and get away with new rings?
Thanks guys!
Ethan
09-08-2010, 01:42 PM
#2
First off, If you are building a short block to last a long time you don't skimp on the machine work and try and do it your self. Take the short block with all the parts to be reused to a machine shop and let them mic everything and make sure you can still use all the parts.
Second,There are no over sized rings. You buy oversized pistons and the rings for those pistons. You mach the pistons to what every you bore is going to have to be so best bet is to let the machine shop size those as well.
Third, Heads: Have the heads rebuilt by a shop or buy a good set if yours are bad. let them do a valve job and replace the seals locks and retainers.
I can tell you right off the bat you will be looking at about 500 to 900 bucks for machine work on the block and existing parts. That wont include head work and pistons.
Lifters are easy you just buy an ls7 lifter kit with dogs and hold down. if you don't need the dogs and hold down then just a set of ls7 lifters. As far as cams go I would call Lloyd elliot and see if he has a cam for stock heads and bottom end. It will make a little more power, not much but you can run it on a stock tune untill you can get a mail order or a dyno.
ARP bolts need to be done before the machine work so tell the machine shop just in case they have to do any work to the rod journals.
Bottom line unless you are experianced quite well in head work let someone do it. If you can put it together then fine but you need to have a machinest make sure everything is true. Sometimes blocks need a decking or an alignbore or the rods need to be trued or the crank bay need to be taken down. You really wont know untill you get all the parts together and have them inspected. Thats the only way to make it last.
Second,There are no over sized rings. You buy oversized pistons and the rings for those pistons. You mach the pistons to what every you bore is going to have to be so best bet is to let the machine shop size those as well.
Third, Heads: Have the heads rebuilt by a shop or buy a good set if yours are bad. let them do a valve job and replace the seals locks and retainers.
I can tell you right off the bat you will be looking at about 500 to 900 bucks for machine work on the block and existing parts. That wont include head work and pistons.
Lifters are easy you just buy an ls7 lifter kit with dogs and hold down. if you don't need the dogs and hold down then just a set of ls7 lifters. As far as cams go I would call Lloyd elliot and see if he has a cam for stock heads and bottom end. It will make a little more power, not much but you can run it on a stock tune untill you can get a mail order or a dyno.
ARP bolts need to be done before the machine work so tell the machine shop just in case they have to do any work to the rod journals.
Bottom line unless you are experianced quite well in head work let someone do it. If you can put it together then fine but you need to have a machinest make sure everything is true. Sometimes blocks need a decking or an alignbore or the rods need to be trued or the crank bay need to be taken down. You really wont know untill you get all the parts together and have them inspected. Thats the only way to make it last.
09-08-2010, 05:03 PM
#3
take your block and crank to a good local machine shop. Ideally they can just hone the cyl and polish the crank and spec new bearings and rings for it. Have them do a valve job on your heads. new valve springs would be a good idea along with the ARP bolt kit
09-08-2010, 11:11 PM
#4
Teching In
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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First off, If you are building a short block to last a long time you don't skimp on the machine work and try and do it yourself. Take the short block with all the parts to be reused to a machine shop and let them mic everything and make sure you can still use all the parts.
Second, There are no over sized rings. You buy over sized pistons and the rings for those pistons. You match the pistons to what ever your bore is going to have to be so best bet is to let the machine shop size those as well.
Third, Heads: Have the heads rebuilt by a shop or buy a good set if yours are bad. let them do a valve job and replace the seals locks and retainers.
I can tell you right off the bat you will be looking at about 500 to 900 bucks for machine work on the block and existing parts. That wont include head work and pistons.
Lifters are easy you just buy an ls7 lifter kit with dogs and hold down. if you don't need the dogs and hold down then just a set of ls7 lifters. As far as cams go I would call Lloyd elliot and see if he has a cam for stock heads and bottom end. It will make a little more power, not much but you can run it on a stock tune untill you can get a mail order or a dyno.
ARP bolts need to be done before the machine work so tell the machine shop just in case they have to do any work to the rod journals.
Bottom line unless you are experianced quite well in head work let someone do it. If you can put it together then fine but you need to have a machinest make sure everything is true. Sometimes blocks need a decking or an alignbore or the rods need to be trued or the crank bay need to be taken down. You really wont know untill you get all the parts together and have them inspected. Thats the only way to make it last.
Second, There are no over sized rings. You buy over sized pistons and the rings for those pistons. You match the pistons to what ever your bore is going to have to be so best bet is to let the machine shop size those as well.
Third, Heads: Have the heads rebuilt by a shop or buy a good set if yours are bad. let them do a valve job and replace the seals locks and retainers.
I can tell you right off the bat you will be looking at about 500 to 900 bucks for machine work on the block and existing parts. That wont include head work and pistons.
Lifters are easy you just buy an ls7 lifter kit with dogs and hold down. if you don't need the dogs and hold down then just a set of ls7 lifters. As far as cams go I would call Lloyd elliot and see if he has a cam for stock heads and bottom end. It will make a little more power, not much but you can run it on a stock tune untill you can get a mail order or a dyno.
ARP bolts need to be done before the machine work so tell the machine shop just in case they have to do any work to the rod journals.
Bottom line unless you are experianced quite well in head work let someone do it. If you can put it together then fine but you need to have a machinest make sure everything is true. Sometimes blocks need a decking or an alignbore or the rods need to be trued or the crank bay need to be taken down. You really wont know untill you get all the parts together and have them inspected. Thats the only way to make it last.
damn...well it sounds like i should probably just put the sucker back together and drive it until i spin a rod bearing...that's way out of my budget for just a block...i might as well save up and buy a frickin LS1 for a couple hundred more. The only reason i was planning on tearing it down was because of oil leaks...but i guess if it's going to cost that much i'll just pull the motor and reseal it and stick it back in...it's made it this far with the stock bore and crank/main bearings, i think it can last a bit longer until i can come up with THAT kind of money...damn, might as well just throw a new intake gasket on the sucker and deal with the oil pan gasket leaks so i don't have to do it all twice.
I have a LT4 Hot Cam, and until i do a real build, i'm not playing with that...it's working fine. I guess i should go ahead and reseal the bottom end to keep oil from dripping on the exhaust...that might turn out bad one of these days, but other than that....500-900 for them to look over a block and crank with a micrometer and tell me if it's in spec? i know they do more than just that...but that's a bit outrageous to me...i mean i can buy a reman'd shortblock with rotating assembly already bored over with new pistons for the same price! what's the friggin point?
Oh and if ARP rod bolts are actually studs there is no point in me buying them, because i'll have to cut the baffle mount half of the stud off to fit the custom oil pan...waste of money there!
09-09-2010, 12:08 AM
#5
thanks for the info
damn...well it sounds like i should probably just put the sucker back together and drive it until i spin a rod bearing...that's way out of my budget for just a block...i might as well save up and buy a frickin LS1 for a couple hundred more. The only reason i was planning on tearing it down was because of oil leaks...but i guess if it's going to cost that much i'll just pull the motor and reseal it and stick it back in...it's made it this far with the stock bore and crank/main bearings, i think it can last a bit longer until i can come up with THAT kind of money...damn, might as well just throw a new intake gasket on the sucker and deal with the oil pan gasket leaks so i don't have to do it all twice.
I have a LT4 Hot Cam, and until i do a real build, i'm not playing with that...it's working fine. I guess i should go ahead and reseal the bottom end to keep oil from dripping on the exhaust...that might turn out bad one of these days, but other than that....500-900 for them to look over a block and crank with a micrometer and tell me if it's in spec? i know they do more than just that...but that's a bit outrageous to me...i mean i can buy a reman'd shortblock with rotating assembly already bored over with new pistons for the same price! what's the friggin point?
Oh and if ARP rod bolts are actually studs there is no point in me buying them, because i'll have to cut the baffle mount half of the stud off to fit the custom oil pan...waste of money there!
damn...well it sounds like i should probably just put the sucker back together and drive it until i spin a rod bearing...that's way out of my budget for just a block...i might as well save up and buy a frickin LS1 for a couple hundred more. The only reason i was planning on tearing it down was because of oil leaks...but i guess if it's going to cost that much i'll just pull the motor and reseal it and stick it back in...it's made it this far with the stock bore and crank/main bearings, i think it can last a bit longer until i can come up with THAT kind of money...damn, might as well just throw a new intake gasket on the sucker and deal with the oil pan gasket leaks so i don't have to do it all twice.
I have a LT4 Hot Cam, and until i do a real build, i'm not playing with that...it's working fine. I guess i should go ahead and reseal the bottom end to keep oil from dripping on the exhaust...that might turn out bad one of these days, but other than that....500-900 for them to look over a block and crank with a micrometer and tell me if it's in spec? i know they do more than just that...but that's a bit outrageous to me...i mean i can buy a reman'd shortblock with rotating assembly already bored over with new pistons for the same price! what's the friggin point?
Oh and if ARP rod bolts are actually studs there is no point in me buying them, because i'll have to cut the baffle mount half of the stud off to fit the custom oil pan...waste of money there!
