LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

how high of rpms is too high

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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 06:24 PM
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Default how high of rpms is too high

my dyno sheets say im loosing power around 5600rmps but i feel as if it still pulls hard through 6000 am i pushing my built 3500 to much just curios how others drive this cars i really like letting her breath
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 06:29 PM
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Pretty sure the hotcam is designed to run with close to stock redline. Maybe shifting at 6000. Don't quote me, I'm just bored at work.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 08:27 PM
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Those who've run the hotcam before usually shift around 6200rpm. Post up the dyno graph. Would like to see if you are encountering valve float.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by LSWHO
Pretty sure the hotcam is designed to run with close to stock redline. Maybe shifting at 6000. Don't quote me, I'm just bored at work.
The hotcam would be more like 6400-6500. I run the stock cam to 6000.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 10:31 PM
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I also run my stock cam out to the 6100ish range. You should be able to push a Hotcam out to 6300/6400 I would think?
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 10:41 PM
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The hotcam stops making power around 5900-6000. Shifting at ~6200 is your best bet.

The stock cam stops making power at 5500, so spinning past 6000 and you're just wasting RPMs.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 10:52 PM
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I can guarantee if you have all the mods and PCM tuning a 96/97 LT1 likes 61/200 shifts all day long. My car has always responded better to being shifted in the 6000 + range. Maybe I have a freak, but this car has loved it since day one of full bolt-ons. I actually know two people from way back that ran LT4 hotcam's and one guy shifted at 6300 ish and the other guy almost 6500ish, but each car is different.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 10:56 PM
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We have the shift light set at 5200 on our stock cam LT1 (hits around 5500-5600). A lot of times you will go faster with this stuff if you short-shift.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 96silverram
I can guarantee if you have all the mods and PCM tuning a 96/97 LT1 likes 61/200 shifts all day long. My car has always responded better to being shifted in the 6000 + range. Maybe I have a freak, but this car has loved it since day one of full bolt-ons. I actually know two people from way back that ran LT4 hotcam's and one guy shifted at 6300 ish and the other guy almost 6500ish, but each car is different.
I see what you're saying, but I've seen several dyno graphs of stock and stockish cars and it is clear the stock cam stops making power around 5500. What do you mean by "responded better?"

8-9 years ago when I was bolt-on only, I was running in the high 12s with shift points set around 5800 with terrific results.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 11:46 PM
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When I had the stock caprice motor and full bolt-ons besides 1.6 rockers I shifted at 56-5800. I tried shifting at 6000 but lost 1.5mph.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
The hotcam stops making power around 5900-6000. Shifting at ~6200 is your best bet.

The stock cam stops making power at 5500, so spinning past 6000 and you're just wasting RPMs.
My car ran 13's when it shifted that early with like a 1.85 60'. Bumped up the rpm's and had much better results. Stock cams may peak at 5500 with stock springs and rockers, but the peak climbs when they are upgraded.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
8-9 years ago when I was bolt-on only, I was running in the high 12s with shift points set around 5800 with terrific results.
Shawn (RIP) and Jordon did virtually the same thing. Both were in the 12's, bolt-ons only and shifting at stock rev limit.

I had a gross case of this happen where I was crossing the traps in a past setup at 6200rpm when power peak was 5900rpm. Changed rear gears and gained 1.5mph through the traps and shaved off almost 2/10ths.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 02:42 PM
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My signature is based on every single bolt-on you can imagine except for the PCM tuning I had done right after my ET in the sig. I've also added a cut-out and tons of suspension since the times in 2001ish. My car produced 323 rwhp / 343rwtq on many occasions on the dyno, but I've actually had the car peak as high as 330 rhwp / 350 rwtq. I don't actually use the higher numbers because I thought it was a fluke. Car only produced the 330/350 numbers once on the dyno. I can tell you this, my car went 12.61 @ 109 on a 1.8x 60 ft and that was before the PCM tuning and the cut-out. I would be willing to bet that with my cut-out open the car probably makes 330ish rwhp / 350ish rwtq. Based on those numbers I know the car is faster than my best ET in 2001 and I suspect with all my suspension work and slicks the car could easily get me into the 1.6xxx 60 ft range. If I just shaved 2 tenths off my 60ft the car would probably run 12.40/50ish @ 110 +. Now factor in the PCM tuning and the cutout and I don't see how it would not run 12.4xxx ish @ 110+. I will admit that before I had all the bolt-ons the car did not like to be shifted above 5900, but after doing everything I have now it likes being shifted around 6100ish. I understand that LT1 cars are varied in results, but this one has always ran well. The car is still completely stock internals and has never been opened up, other than the 1.6 RR's from comp cams.

PS: You will also notice the 1/8th time 8.01 @ 87. (FYI: this was with a12bolt, 4:11's) That was done on a ET street (26x10.5x15) with a 5200 rpm launch and the car was still spinning and unloading at the top of my 60ft (hence only producing 1.8x 60's). I did not have the suspension tuning I have now and if I had at the time this car would certainly have run much stronger 60's. As a rule of thumb a 1/10th on the bottom is usually worth at least a 1/10th on the top and an extra 1 mph. Using conservative estimates, if I picked up 2/10th's from my 60 ft (1.6xx ish) that should plant me solidly in the 12.40/50 range and at least 1 mph to give me 110 plus trap speed. Anyway you slice it a 8.01 @ 87 in a full weight WS6 (except for the backseat) with bolt-ons and with the stock heads and stock cam is hustling!!

My point being, I produced those numbers shifting the car @ 6200 on the 1-2 shift and all other shifts done @ 6100 out the back door.


RamAir95TA:
"responded better" Simply means it produced better ET's


Most important, original poster: You can shift your car higher. Now returning this thread to OP.

Last edited by 96silverram; Sep 17, 2010 at 02:56 PM.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 10:13 PM
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well you made me feel better with my high rpm shifts idk why but she just likes to run hard
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 03:39 PM
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It's an LT1 thing... My car runs super hard when its up on the rpms.... it never fails to make me smile..
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 04:32 PM
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All you guys claiming to be faster spinning the stock cam to 6000+ YOUR TACH IS WRONG. I had every bolt on too and the stock cam likes shifted at 5800, period. Any higher and you will go slower in my experience.
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 05:16 PM
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when mine had a hot cam, and all the bolt ons it was done anything over 6200. did best shifting around 6-6200, but every car is different.
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 05:55 PM
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Gregrob, YOUR WRONG. I have verified this many times through my Aeroforce interceptor gauge. That is dead-on were I shift from my tach....................
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 06:29 PM
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OK, if thats what works for you, go with it.

My experience was different.

No one is really trying to go fast on the stock cam anyway, so who really cares.

Put something in there that wont die off
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by gregrob
All you guys claiming to be faster spinning the stock cam to 6000+ YOUR TACH IS WRONG. I had every bolt on too and the stock cam likes shifted at 5800, period. Any higher and you will go slower in my experience.
I know my tach is off. I ran my car to 5500 rpm on the dyno sheet, and my tach stopped at 5800-5850. The car stopped making power there anyways. I think 5800 (real rpm) is the best, and agree with you gregrob. I tried bumping the shift points up 200-300 rpm's and lost .2 and 2mph. (m6)
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