quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

Yep I got the same one things a monster!!!! And it drives perfectly smooth.


Exactly.....cheap $ = cheap driveshaft





as for performance gains.....i would think it would be small un noticable gains.....the only reason i did it is because im trying to squeeze every last bit out of my car.....trying to make single digits on motor only

SS MPSTR

iTrader: (1)

For what a good CM shaft costs, it's a no-brainer investment IMO if you plan to race the car.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

I broke a stock LS1 one at the strip on street tires (not even drag radials). M6 with 4.10s and bolt ons only (no cam / no power adder).

Supposedly it is worth 1hp and 5ft-lbs but never upgrade for that reason (you'd never notice that small amount). Only put in an LS1 driveshaft to cut down vibrations. When you get enough money to buy a proper rear end (12 bolt / dana 60 / ford 9") buy a stronger driveshaft to go with it.

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

Gains in my Stock Eliminator car were approx. .04 - .05 going from a steel Mark Williams driveshaft to an aluminum bonded Mark Williams driveshaft. I wouldn't trust a stock aluminum driveshaft behind anything but a six cylinder.

Young Maro

iTrader: (5)

455 RWHP isn't power? You're crazy lol.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

Yep I agree.......i didn't see the gain on mine cause i changed more than one thing at once but it should make a difference rotating weight is big. I agree though those stockers are weak....i got the PST like Mike does on his car and im standing a 3550lb car up on it .....supposedly good for 1000hp

Bowtie Boy

Lighter drive shaft=less rotational weight=faster car and lighter car=

Every pony and pounds counts. Not to mention the aluminum LS1 shafts are balanced and can get rid of certain speed vibration problems on LT1 fbodys.

ElkySS

iTrader: (6)

i got a pst here too. awsome piece. plus the lifetime warranty helps.

Formula383

iTrader: (8)

I had an LS1 DS once. Do yourself a favor and find something better. I'm sure the PST one is a good choice. I've got a Strange 3" cmoly one now which is supposed to be good to 1500 hp.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/tx20d/2433364008/http://www.flickr.com/photos/tx20d/2433364008/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/tx20d/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tx20d/2433364918/http://www.flickr.com/photos/tx20d/2433364918/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/tx20d/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tx20d/2432554105/http://www.flickr.com/photos/tx20d/2432554105/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/tx20d/, on Flickr

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

would it be fair to say a car with featherweight rotating mass would show a noticeable gain, but the average street/strip car would not? the actual reciprocating mass is very very low in a 3" diameter shaft... i'd rank it along with gun drilled axles as last places to take weight out of my car. please school me haha

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Like everybody else, I had some vibration with my OE steel shaft, so I took it to the local d'shaft shop. They replaced the u-joints and rebalanced it, and all was OK. A couple of years after that, Lingenfelter's had a 'sale' on aluminum shafts, so I said, "What the hell", and bought one. Obviously, the AL shaft is lighter (and so is my wallet!), but in all honesty, I didn't notice any performance gain....

white97t/a

iTrader: (2)

Another problem is the weight of the car and power. Even Mark Williams will recommend steel or chrommoly for heavier cars. If you want a shaft that will last then go chromoly. They say that aluminum or the MMC shafts will work but you will have to cycle them out. They will begin to twist in heavy cars with sticky tires.

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

First, I wouldn't run anything smaller than 3.5" in diameter.

I think that any car should see a gain when switching from steel to aluminum. The problem is that the kind of gains that you will see from these type of mods would not even be noticed by the average guy. You can't feel .04 of a second. I record a ton of information at the end of every run. I also try to make one change at a time so that I can collect worthwhile data. The trick is to find a bunch of small gains. Gun drilled axles, etc. are expensive mods that you leave till last. I always recommend that guys start with wheel alignment, wheel bearings, and turned rotors.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

With what you have done you will be fine running a stock aluminum DS. This was a recall years ago to replace the stock steel DS due to vibration issues. I was lucky enough to get a 1LE DS from the dealer installed for free. It took some haggling, but thank Christ I had the recall number for them to look up on their database. They said I was lucky. The only reason they replaced it was because it was a SS model.
The other thing is since you are an auto with bolt-ons you will have no issues. Once you start getting in the sub 1.7 60' times and you're pretty much at stock weight may you want to consider something more durable. I ran this aluminum DS for 10 years with very aggressive clutches cutting mid to low 1.7 60' times and never had an issue. You would most definitely want to run a DS loop just because. As already stated, gains would most likely not be noticed.

BTC

Are the Lingenfelter aluminum shafts a good shaft, or can you get a better shaft for the money? Those things have gotten pretty pricey. I would like to replace my steel shaft, and I would like something better than an LS1 shaft. At the same time, I don't need something that's going to withstand ungodly amounts of power.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

See if you can find a 1LE DS. I have one that I'd love to sell, but it's over 100 miles away.
I think Speed_Demon24 has a LPE DS. It's a 3.5" and he's making decent power.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

PST $430 shipped........done end of story you WILL NOT break it......got rid of my vibrations and its like 7lbs lighter

Call Speed Inc.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Speedinc set me up also. Got a tad better deal when they had their group purchase.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

Yeah but all I do is spin.