aluminum driveshaft
Some good reading can be found here.
http://www.markwilliams.com/shaft-txt.aspx
Exactly.....cheap $ = cheap driveshaft
as for performance gains.....i would think it would be small un noticable gains.....the only reason i did it is because im trying to squeeze every last bit out of my car.....trying to make single digits on motor only
Supposedly it is worth 1hp and 5ft-lbs but never upgrade for that reason (you'd never notice that small amount). Only put in an LS1 driveshaft to cut down vibrations. When you get enough money to buy a proper rear end (12 bolt / dana 60 / ford 9") buy a stronger driveshaft to go with it.
.....supposedly good for 1000hp 
Every pony and pounds counts. Not to mention the aluminum LS1 shafts are balanced and can get rid of certain speed vibration problems on LT1 fbodys.
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I think that any car should see a gain when switching from steel to aluminum. The problem is that the kind of gains that you will see from these type of mods would not even be noticed by the average guy. You can't feel .04 of a second. I record a ton of information at the end of every run. I also try to make one change at a time so that I can collect worthwhile data. The trick is to find a bunch of small gains. Gun drilled axles, etc. are expensive mods that you leave till last. I always recommend that guys start with wheel alignment, wheel bearings, and turned rotors.

The other thing is since you are an auto with bolt-ons you will have no issues. Once you start getting in the sub 1.7 60' times and you're pretty much at stock weight may you want to consider something more durable. I ran this aluminum DS for 10 years with very aggressive clutches cutting mid to low 1.7 60' times and never had an issue. You would most definitely want to run a DS loop just because. As already stated, gains would most likely not be noticed.


I think Speed_Demon24 has a LPE DS. It's a 3.5" and he's making decent power.
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