Road to the 9's NA with a 385 AI HCI Street Car Video&Pics Inside 10.2x's so far.....
10-29-2010, 08:48 AM
#81
It is unlikely it is mechanical, barring some sort of anomaly. Mike's setup is easily good to the recommended 8k as it has headroom beyond that. It is not uncommon to turn far beyond that with steel valves, although we stick with less maintenance intensive 7500-8krpm SR setups for the street cars. Springs typically live 10-20k miles, but of course we still recommend checking them or sending them in to be checked whenever is convenient. 
10-29-2010, 09:25 AM
#82
It is unlikely it is mechanical, barring some sort of anomaly. Mike's setup is easily good to the recommended 8k as it has headroom beyond that. It is not uncommon to turn far beyond that with steel valves, although we stick with less maintenance intensive 7500-8krpm SR setups for the street cars. Springs typically live 10-20k miles, but of course we still recommend checking them or sending them in to be checked whenever is convenient.
10-29-2010, 09:38 AM
#84
spindles look good huh?
lol i had to cut the original brake brackets off the spindles but i trimmed the rest of them down and ground them down nice nice looks like it never even happened and i dropped a bunch of weight off of them........as for the brake lines i just replaced the stock lt1's with wilwood braided ones
10-29-2010, 12:11 PM
#85
thanks!!!!
spindles look good huh?
lol i had to cut the original brake brackets off the spindles but i trimmed the rest of them down and ground them down nice nice looks like it never even happened and i dropped a bunch of weight off of them........as for the brake lines i just replaced the stock lt1's with wilwood braided ones
spindles look good huh?
lol i had to cut the original brake brackets off the spindles but i trimmed the rest of them down and ground them down nice nice looks like it never even happened and i dropped a bunch of weight off of them........as for the brake lines i just replaced the stock lt1's with wilwood braided ones
10-29-2010, 12:56 PM
#87
thanks guys i sure hope so!!! yea i can tell you this........my powerslots i had on there were 23lbs each........the new rotors were 6lbs each.........i think i pulled about 50lbs off between the rotors hubs calipers brackets and all the crap i ground/cut off the spindles.......the hubs themselves dropped 7lbs each!!!........all that spinning weight is huge!!!
not to mention my stock brakes were dragging bad i think i had caliper issues.....before if you spun the wheel it would go a half revolution and stop.....now it spins like a bicycle tire lol......hell i can even actually push the car now by myself lol
not to mention my stock brakes were dragging bad i think i had caliper issues.....before if you spun the wheel it would go a half revolution and stop.....now it spins like a bicycle tire lol......hell i can even actually push the car now by myself lol
10-29-2010, 08:28 PM
#89
11-01-2010, 08:34 AM
#91
UPDATE......took the car to another dyno day on saturday........the popping is gone and the fuling is back on par......butttt.........looking up the header tubes on the pass you can see little bursts of white flame comming out of the primary on the #1 cyl.....it looked like random gunfire on and off.......and at the end of the pull that one primary was orange so cyl #1 is still misfiring i switched the plug and the plug wire to no fix........tried a compression test and no issue.....also the valves are seated and not leaking either.......gonna try switching the injector to the other side and see if the problem follows.....if not it gotta be the cap/rotor on the opti........optis goin in the trash can anyway.......maybe ill donate the cap for the shootout trophies next year lol
11-01-2010, 05:57 PM
#92
good to see you got it running. But sad to know that its still messed up and it can be the opti... I had a problem with mine doing that on cyl 5 once and it took awhile to find out what it was and sure **** it was the opti. Took apart the cap/rotor and you see the arc went right through the cap on cyl 5.
11-02-2010, 09:02 AM
#93
yep i think u hit it right on the head sprayedz..........im gonna start my winter project soon...........gonna do some serious re-wiring.........custom race stripped down harness for everything but the lights.......ill post up pics of this as it goes along........plus we're gonna paint and clear under the hood too make it look like the bell of the ball
11-08-2010, 02:28 PM
#95
not yet.....even after i get it its gonna be a while before it runs.......i got it all apart I'm building the wiring harness right now...... heres a few pics
working on stripping down the harness for the headlights to just what i need.......then gonna start building the engine harness and relay/fuse pannel for under the dash......and we're gonna paint and clear under the hood too.....should drop some weight and look damn good when I'm done
working on stripping down the harness for the headlights to just what i need.......then gonna start building the engine harness and relay/fuse pannel for under the dash......and we're gonna paint and clear under the hood too.....should drop some weight and look damn good when I'm done
11-09-2010, 06:03 AM
#97
I see you are getting serious about the weight reduction! There is about 3-4lbs of extra aluminum on that intake manifold you could chop off. The section where the sbc thermostat would go. Just weld up the coolant passageway holes and then grind it smooth.
11-09-2010, 07:28 AM
#98
.......and i got a few other things im doing.......high 9's at worst!!! also i've now got a set of Moroso 11mm plug wires for sale with the fireresistant jacket on them that will fit an LT1 with an opti......I custom made them you cant buy them for the LT1 like these.....if anybody is interested PM me.....
